1 Lucky Texan

It isn't 'horrible', just not inspiring from a stop. Highway passing is never a problem, but when my wife and I are in the car and have her jewelry show booth stuff in the back, or any other stuff, you just don't get in a situation where you NEED to zoom from a light, cause the car won't do it. It also has a disconcerting downshift at very high highway speeds. Front diff is a little noisy at medium speed. But it's fine for 'normal' driving. I really like driving it overall. It's glass smooth, visibility is great, rides smooth enough - even with a load, we find the seats to be comfortable, stock radio is OK, the a/c and heat is good, flipping/folding seats gives a surprisingly large amount of versatile space, parks easily. Except for the plugs, it's even pretty easy to work on. I think it positives more than outweigh it's peculiarities.

they have a chain. problems with that system seem rare. HG problems seem extremely rare. WE've never gotten better than 26 mpg on the highway - 25 is more the norm. Around town about 20 (we have an 03 H6 OBW with weather package, not LL Bean, but similar) we run premium fuel - as the manual suggests the known common problems are fairly easy to deal with; Wind noise, power steering noise, valve cover gasket leaks, serpentine pulley bearings, inner axle boot power is up top - great for highway passing, a dog outta the hole. Extremely smooth and quiet engine.

um, it is presently empty of refrigerant? Yeah, a low pressure switch will not allow it to engage as the system may not have enough pag oil w'ever to lube the compressor. If you have already charged it with 134a, how much did you put in? As mentioned, there MAY also be an over pressure cut-out, not sure though.

some newer H4s have a chain now too.

Multimeter is likely showing full voltage. But it can't measure a full 'charge'. If you or a helper measures the voltage across the battery DURING cranking, that 'might' tell us something. I've read 10-10.5 is normal during cranking. If it's a lot lower, I'd suspect a poor charge in the battery or maybe a higher than normal load, shorted windings in the starter or abnormal load or ????? A lot higher than hat, and maybe some resistance somewhere; bad connections, bad cables, etc. Bad cables/connections may be preventing full current during cranking and/or good re-charging from the alternator.

can you get freezeframe data the next time it throws a code? might be interesting to see if the fuel trims are weird on the bank with the 304 (driver's?) side bank.

yep, very easy to miss getting the tabs in at the bottom. probably been making a 'wooshing' or similar noise.

maybe a crank sensor, or sprocket lug got damaged?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170854483864&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1211wt_1165

no P'ups, no rangers or S10s anymore. They would clean up with a small pick-up. and a diesel hybrid. Probably should find a way to run the electric on the front axle to get better regen braking, but might not be necessary. Or put the e lectric as part of the flywheel. didn't they have an all-electric kei car in japan? R1e ?

you might check this thread out too; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=132280

fun project! others here will have great ideas but the first 2 things that come to my mind are; EJ22 engine (or built frankenmotor) and a rear LSD from the late 80s. I think the Aussies run Soob-powered sand rails, maybe search the net for how they set those up.

I think some books have an incorrectly low torque value for that bolt. Maybe someone here can confirm the torque for you.

valve cover gaskets?

not much but, maybe run without the TB cover and bolts. find a tiny alt. there's just not much load for a regular one. over-drive it if you have to with a smaller pulley. give him a spare in case it doesn't last long.

do any of the newer plastic intake manifolds move over? any titanium exhaust parts available?

you might 'carefully' experiment with altering the thrust angle so it lifts the rear and pitches the nose down a little. And maybe find a way to boost the Rotax's output. If the engine/pilot can't move, could the fuel and/or any on board battery be moved forward? (battery would be best as it is a static load)

should be able to trim a LOT from a flywheel as I imagine there's a lot of flywheel 'effect' from any attached prop. but yeh, 50lbs is a lot. maybe higher octane fuel and more compression? smaller radiator? motorcycle battery?

intermittent crank angle sensor? maybe try a throttlebody cleaning/seafoam w'ever.

that was kinda weird - it wasn't just bank 2 IIRC. I briefly considered taking them out and gapping them differently but, really, I just don't want to perform another experiment. If I had a spare car or more time, or maybe was better equipped....but, for the effort and 44 bucks, I'll just put in the proper plugs. Then, if i still get weird codes, I'll have eliminated a big unknown and can proceed normally with diagnosis. The only other thing changed was the PCV valve. Just can't see anyway it could create a condition causing the ECU to make big swings in fuel trim. no one to blame but myself - still, less money than what a mechanic or dealership would have charged.

well, there HAVE been issues. twice, the CEL has come on. The first time was some misfire codes and a 'small vacuum leak code' (can't recall the code.) This was with a strange driver, within about 20 miles of a fuel fill-up. The car has had a coupla instance of spurious CELs before so, I tightened the gas cap and cleared the codes. Weeks go by and it set the CEL again. Misfire codes. This time, i also checked the FF data and bank 2 is being driven lean by the ECU. STFT is -6 and LTFT is -12. I'd LOVE to be convinced this is an O2 sensor problem or ??? but I just can't believe it isn't related to the 'European' plugs (NOW I've learned what those little flags are next to parts at RockAuto! ) It's gonna cost me another 45 bucks and probably a day under the car, but I've ordered the correct plugs and intend to swap them in, not sure when. ******NGK Part # 6619 {#LFR6AIX11} Iridium IX; 0.43 Gap .044 ****** It runs smooth, but it seems the mileage is poor. I don't drive it regularly so, can't be sure the last trip meter was reset. It DID seem to lack a little oomph once recently when I floored on the highway, otherwise, performance is good. maybe bank 2 has poor combustion and the O2 sensors on that side are picking up hydrocarbons and the ECU is leaning it out???? I feel stupid, but, if someone can learn from my mistake, it's OK with me.

off topic, mostly, but, I think there could be a market for the cap that goes on the bottom of Legacy fuel pumps in the 2000-2004 year range (I think) if it could be modeled and made. Folks are paying $50 for used pumps on ebay just to get that cap. maybe some could be made in delrin or ???? it's happening a lot - mostly to the H6es. No telling how many folks have been sold $300 or more FP assemblies just because that cap failed. check here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/45273-does-2003-outback-h6-fuel-pump-prime-when-key-os-turned.html http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/41182-symptoms-fuel-pump-o-ring-problem.html

I use LOTS of improper language while I'm actually working on my cars. when I had young children, on a weekend you might hear my wife; "Kids, better come in now, your daddy's gonna change a starter on the van!" I love me some ivan's posts - I always learn something. I had no idea there would be more than one oil pressure regulator on a motor.