1 Lucky Texan

caps and punctuation? who ARE you and what did you do with Ivan!

dunno how many fuses are involved or where they'r located. But, you need to hear the relay click so, once you've tried a different relay(the coil could be bad) it's time to trace the circuit (wiring/fuses) from the switch. If the relay is switching and the contacts aren't burned off (try a different relay) then the circuit from there to the back , as well as the ground for the defroster (this could be in the harness that gets flexed so much from the hatch to the body - might be a bad wire???) , all needs to be traced out. There are repair kits for cuts in the defroster traces themselves, if that is part of the problem.

maybe not a huge amount of vibration, I suspect the crank will snap - but either way, it will be glorious all the way to the point of catastrophic failure!

bump - anybody know what other vehicles can use 06 WRX wagon springs as an upgrade?

have your shop check the pulleys and tensioner for the serpentine belt. But yeah, many people do report vibration from rebuilt axles. What was wrong with the power steering?

nothing wrong with doing an alignment, hope it helps. maybe double check lugnuts and other stuff. Could also be you got a little air in the PS system and it needs a little time to work its way out, dunno - just seems weird. When the car comes back from alignment, get back here if the problem persists. I might not be much help, but someone probably will!

is it a 'jerkiness' or a vibration? seems like any alignment problem (toe) would be undetectable at low speed turns. But, if it didn't do it before the work....

I could see a TPS possibly doing this. (i'd def. check any linkage too.) (also, spotted 2 ? marks in ivan's post - what do I win?)

Early on after i got my car(06 WRX Sportwagon.), I swapped the stock springs for wagon-spec SPT springs. Dunno about fitment, but I still have all 4 springs in my attic. less than 1800 miles on them. I'd like to sell them.

so they just have a channel cast in that half of the block. Interesting.

it isn't clear from the OP what was intended so, yeah, maybe you could make it work that way too. I just went to the first arrangement that seemed like adjusting a cam would let a couple of cylinders be at compression at the same time. But, now, it seems either way requires custom cam(s).

that rag soaking thing does seem familiar. The only test you can find on the 'net was for PB Blaster, Kroil and other off-the-shelf penetrants, but in that test, the best was 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF fluid (dexron III I guess) - have to shake it up before use. still, may not work for this severe rusting. As for heat, I'm sure the knuckle gets plenty hot in normal use - but excess heat could definitely be an issue. If you could keep it localized - then flood with cool/cold water......thermal shock might be helpful.

yeah, I'd say check the battery cables/grounds first, then I might suspect the replacement alternator.

I've never handled these parts - but it kinda looks like the oil pressure relief valve may dump oil through there back into the pan. just a guess

wow - yeah, hope all that work is fruitful.

no problem, it was right there in my home 'office'. I bought it over a year ago from RockAuto. Haven't decided to use it yet, but it was gonna be a maintenance replacement anyway - both cars are working well at present.

shards sounds bad, but a 1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon of 'filings' is likely normal. Doesn't mean a chunk isn't lying in the bottom.... Search for the term 'torque bind'. If you have mismatched tires, or certain types of failures associated with the center diff (MT) or 'wet clutch pack' in an auto-tranny - you can get that 'jerkiness' when maneuvering tightly in a parking lot. One or 2 other issues can be similar. more info about the car, what tranny, the tires etc. might help someone suggest the next step.

OK, mine differs from yours in only 2 ways that I can tell, the box says made in japan (in 3 languages like yours) and the 78*C marking is on the other side of the 'tickler'. mine even has that offset dimple in the brass on the bottom of the 'wax filled slug' or w'ever. same construction and shape.

I'll try to take a look at mine later tonight.

got any pics of your boats?

I read of a guy that had breather/PCV hoses misrouted and actually heard gurgling noises from the dipstick tube! Also, could a crack or pinhole in the pick-up tube allow air to be sucked in?

seems like cars of that vintage had crank angle sensors that would fail intermittently or when they got hot. dunno why it wouldn't throw a code. has the fuel filter been changed? Are the coils/plugwires in good shape?

if it's a MT, get a coupla buddies and push start the car. At least you'd know the problem is only in the starting circuit.

how much heat could you put on it before compromising grease/rubber on the good parts? Try heating it, then pouring some cold water on it. Also, try TIGHTENING it very slightly before backing it out. (maybe set a torque wrench to 5-10% OVER suggested torque and tighten it) I dunno - good luck.

does...gulp....does it have rear LSD?