1 Lucky Texan

if the car is not releasing some transmission solenoid w'ever, and the TC is staying locked too long, that could be the separate issue 1997reduxe mentioned above. Some people have good luck doing a 3 drain/fill cycles on the transmission and maybe using a Trans-X additive. i hope you get it sorted out but, seems like this car may have had some issues or missed some maintenance along the way.

from what I've read likely still overcharged, or possibly bad/clogged H tube.

I'll mention a 'myth', maybe, I use Techron every couple of years in my cars. usually a tank or 2 before an oil change. Is it a wasted effort? many people seem to get good results from SeaFoam, though it seems you need to have a neglected vehicle or a specific problem. Any experience/comments? Subaru requires use of the coolant conditioner (rebranded Holdt's ?) in a few year/models. This seems to be an additive that works. Should all soobs be using it? Is there a downside to it?

If general disorder is still monitoring this thread, he may have 2-3 ideas but, seems to me, you have a MAF-related problem. It needs cleaning or it has a poor cable connection, there's an intake hose routing issue or it needs replacing, etc.

is there any indication the car has run rich in the past? maybe the exhaust is clogged/bad cat. eh, you'd think you get a 420 code or something. I know you checked the coil, but, if you can get the 'Sometimes it will start and idle really rough.' condition to maintain for a few minutes, you might try pulling plug wires one at a time to locate a bad cylinder (sticking valve?) or a general HV failure (coil intermittent???) dunno, crazy

have you looked on the magnet?

OK, just some wild rambling ideas; since you bought it used, triple check all the vapor/vacuum line routing in case someone misrouted something. Also, wonder if it had timing belt service at 109K? It seems to intermittently run well so, I doubt it has slipped a tooth. Have you put a vacuum gauge on it? Sometimes that can help with several diagnostic hints. You might clean and recoonect as many ground connections as you can find. Also, confrim that the wiring from the Engine Temp Sensor is good. Not the Coolant Gauge Sender. Any hints that voltage falls off when the poor running condition shows itself? It's my understanding that, with the mAF unplugged, the system should be in 'limp home' mode. I might be tempted to try troubleshooting why it won't even idle in that condition. No other DTCs stored?

may as well cover all the options - anyone using these?, I might buy some;

yeah, that was nuts.

this sounds like great advice. Would there be any point in him looking at the Miata market?

well, I'd definitely either own a scanner or get the bulb repaired if I was 'in charge' of that car. If the bulb is burned out, how do you know at anytime if there's a code set? Go to an Autozone and have it scanned. It certainly is possible, with it failing intermittently, for a code to be set, then clear itself, but some codes may remain for a very long time. If the Autozone will allow it, write the Pxxx code(s), and have them erase the codes. Then, the next time the car stalls or exhibits a problem, have it scanned ASAP and again, get back to us with the codes. None of this means we will have an answer - but it has the potential to point us in the right direction. And she should really consider having that bulb repaired.

certainly possible, but, since your problem is on-going, not likely an issue. But, just to be clear, the CEL bulb is actually working right? It should be tested everytime the key turns to 'on' like the other lamps.

saw a couple of animations at GKN (used to be Tochigi Fuji Super) but not great; http://www.gkndriveline.com/drivelinecms/opencms/en/solutions/transaxle-solutions/cross-axle-limited-slip-and-locking-differentials/

just lurking in the post but, talk about smell, I did a drain/fill on our 03 OBW with 4 qts (it only held about 3.5) of Subaru ATF-HP. That stuff really stinks right out of the bottle. pew!

when the key is turned to 'on' and all the instrument cluster lights come on, before starting, does the CEL light come on? Has it ever come on when the car stalls? Maybe have the OBDII system scanned for pending codes. An AutoZone or similar car parts place can use their scanner. write down any code as P0123 or w'ever.

I also changed the PCV valve. With the washer tank outta the way, it's right there on a boss on the DS valve cover. It points up so, after removing the hose, you can slip a 19mm socket on a coupla long extensions down between som cable/hoses to take it out. It was oily, but not sludge-ey or carboned up. Seemss to have a piston or slug that would move around, but it didn't rattle. I installed a beck-arnley one I bought about a year ago. It has a tapered pipe thread so, I wrapped the new one's threads with some teflon pipe tape and installed it. I'm leaving the undercover off for a coupla weeks to make sure There's no issues that might cause me to need to get back to the plugs or anything. Also, as I was working on the pluugs, I used a 10mm box end wrench to cinch-up every valve cover bolt I could find. several moved 1/8 turn, a couple more, and one on the driver's side I swear was only finger tight! Couldn't reac all of them but I may try some from the top now that I know they may be a little loose. Might extend the time I need to do those gaskets a little while. I may take some pics of the tools I used but really, you just need a lot of options for extension length from the plug socket to the ratchet. I made do with what I had, I can see where a wobble socket might be a helpful option, and one of those ratchets with the 'speed spin disc' or a thumbwheel ratchet would have been great to have.

so, it doesn't really change with engine RPM but rather speed of the car? Or , at the same speed, does it change with different gears?

stilll need to re-install the harness bracket w'ever, and the w'shld washer tank, but, it started like normal and no CEL. Seems to run as smooth as before. Dunno what idle or driving will be like, but, so far so good.

Got beat by about 5:30 - have 2 left to go. The driver's rear plug (actually, the coil) is the most difficult. Anyone attempting this should go ahead and remove the windshield washer tank, then you can remove a metal cable shield - 2 10mm bolts. This allows the rear coilpacl to move around with less restriction. Even though I managed to get the coilpack out of the way, install the plug, I could not get the pack back on. I used my floor jack, a piece of wood and put some upwards pressure on the dvr's side motor mount area of the engine. Just about 1 - 1 1/2 pump of the handle. This gave me just enough xtra clearance to rotate the coil around. Surprisingly, the new plugs seem to go in with little concern about cross threading. I did use anti-seize on the threads. And you can easily feel when they have bottomed so, putting another 1/2 turn or so on the plugs is not too difficult. I also put a little dielectric grease on the lower body part of the plug think the tube on the coil pack might make a more contamination resistant seal. Gonna get some iced tea and attack the remaining 2 DS plugs.

second plug out - who's got the stopwatch? lol! getting some tea, taking a ... it's a horrible job, hands and fingers already cramped.

first plug is out - this job is not easy. plfr6 w'ever stock plug that I got out is over .040 gap (1 mm wire gauge passes through easily) the plugs i got from RockAuto (laser iridium Premium ILFR6B 6481) are about .030-.031" or so. I find conflicting data online as to what the gap should be, but, since these are different plugs/slighly different technology, I guess I'll put them in as is. Everyone claims not to adjust NGK so, I'm trusting these will work.

OK, RockAuto sent me (a year ago) NGK ilfr6b 6481 'Laser Iridium Premium' plugs. While I can find them on NGKs .pdf catalog, I can't confirm they are appropriate for my 03 H6 Outback doing a brief 'reverse' search. The gap is .031" or so on all 6. When I use the part finder portion of NGK's website, I get a different (maybe newer?) part listed in Iridium, and it shows a gap for that part of .044"

I'd definitely do the most difficult first if I had EVER done this before.

today, I worked on the wife's 03 H6 OBW. synth oil and oil filter airfilter swapped about 2 pints of old PS fluid for new. (turkey baster with hose, sucked out the tank, filled to mark, idled car and moved the wheels a few times. Then emptied tank again and refilled) drain/fill about 3.5 qts of transmission fluid. Used the Subaru ATF-HP. I plan to do this again in October, then again next April. BUT, I discovered the boot on the driver's side is now torn!, I just 6 months ago installed struts and the pass side axle. We're gonna drive it as is for at least 6 months. Just don't feel like tackling that right now cause....I need to put plugs in!!!, I guess I'm gonna give that a try tomorrow. It looks impossible. also, can anyone confirm that, the thing missing it's hose near the middle of the following picture is the PCV valve on an 03 H6? ;

Today I did some work on the 03 H6 OBW. I need to change the plugs. It's looks impossible. Yes, people 'claim' to have done it, Yes, I've read everything I could about it. The distance in the back between the coil pack and the frame is less than the length of a sparkplug! And, if the thickness of the coilpack is gonna allow for a 'turn' into the sparkplug 'tube' then it looks like the coilpack can't possibly get out of its 'well'. And, do I just shove the coilpacks out of the way? They have connectors on them, do I lift a tab or squeeze them somewhere to pull the connectors off? (I wouldn't mind doing this, I believe in 'wiping'/reconnecting connectors generally, then i'd coat them with dielectric grease to reduce contamination.) How likely am I to slam the electrode shut on the sparkplug trying to get it started? Can I slip it into the tube already in the socket? I have bought a wobble extension and a 5/8 sparkplug socket, with no rubber or magnet inside (I only had 13/16). I also have some universals and other tools. I plan to attack from underneath. I may do the 2 front ones, then the driver's rearmost to get it outta the way. Does this seem like a good plan for a noob?