1 Lucky Texan

^^^ yep - hope it isn't the center diff. Tires must be same model/inflation and wear (to within 2 or 3 32") you might get under there and check axles and u-joints too, but those are longshots.

PORCELAIN Veyron !!!! http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2132581/Thats-cracking-motor-Brave-owner-parks-unique-1-6m-Bugatti-Veyron-supercar-PORCELAIN-Paris-street.html?ICO=most_read_module

threw synth oil, new oil and air filter onto the 06 WRX wgn. Inspected stuff, vacuumed leaves off the cowl area....probably check tire pressure in a minute... Work on the 03 Outback this weekend and maybe next week too. Needs plugs (ugh). brought the 'car dog' out front with me while i worked in the garage.

isn't this normal behavior? I suppose, you could pull the fuel line loose at the filter and relieve the pressure - maybe drain a little fuel out - then reconnect. Then, see if the pump runs a little longer to pressure up the system. what problem are you having with the car?

gotcha - and sometimes Amazon beats RockAuto with free shipping.

front fire and then back fire , not each bank. 12 fire, begin power stroke down ----- 34 begin compression 34 fire, begin power stroke down ----- 12 begin exhaust 12 begin intake ----- 34 begin exhaust 34 begin intake ----- 12 begin compression repeat the last two actions occur with just the force of inertia from the flywheel. Unlike normal when each compression stroke is powered by one other cylinder's power stroke, that only happens with the second firing pair in this 'big bang' scheme. that is, one pair's compression stroke relies on inertia alone. That's why I suggested you may need more flywheel mass/effect. There's gonna be some increased torsional forces on the crank and flywheel parts too. it's gonna sound like a harley

Pretty sure that can only happen if you find a way to run 2 cycle.

you have to shift the plug wires to fire the cylinders that just finished their compression stroke so, the ones at TDC immediately after close of intake valves. and because it's a boxer - it must be the cylinder on the other side. So, either 1 & 2 will fire, followed immediately by 3&4 - followed by a long pause, then repeat OR 1&2 will fire, followed by a long pause, then 3&4 will fire, repeat.

not trying to derail the thread but, check into the top-of-the-line battery from O'Reilly. It might be a good replacement for your Optima. They are absorbed glassmat with some kinda new silver based technology and they are true - sealed/no maintenance. I think made by DEKA. Might not be perfect for extremely cold weather, but down here, reserve capacity is more important than CCAs. Average lifespan for our batteries is only around 3 years or so! I've gotten free replacements a coupla times on the Autozone Gold level batteries, but the O'reilly ones are about the same price with better prorating after the 3 year full replacement. just fyi

everything is a compromise for function, weight, cost, durability, etc. lots of pressure on aftermarket stuff to be cheap so, they go with smaller wire or wimpier insulation or make you move connectors over, etc. Plus, you may trade or junk the car before experiencing a failure from a lower quality part - just because they know it's going on a used vehicle, perhaps one closer to the end of its life than beginning. If you KNOW you're gonna keep this car for a long time and want to minimize the possibility of a part-related failure, it's hard to argue with buying OEM or similar quality. This may not be quite as critical for something like battery cables, but it isn't bad practice to investigate and insist on good parts. Perhaps the parts store has a better aftermarket than the one you purchased. Frequently there are 2-3 'levels' of quality available in the aftermarket product world.

$10.48 w/seal at Rockauto

I've seen inflatable blasting 'cabinets' - but not one big enough for a rim. I'd think you could put together something with PVC pipe. No good for a shop, but at home you may only need to blast something every few months so, a 'knock down' unit of some type would be OK. Might even be some good plans around at instructables or somewhere on the web.

if that coolant isn't going into the oil sump, coming out of the gaskets, a hose, waterpump weep hole or the o'flow bottle - it's leaving via a combustion chamber. from waht I've read, HGs are notoriously resistant to pressure testing, they fail after heating up on the road. Try a chemical test for combustion products in the coolant, find out if the overflow bottle appears normal or is filling up(bad rad cap or small o'flow hose). Make certain the engine oil looks good and is the proper level. Doa any topping off with the nose of the car elevated and recheck the coolant level after the next drive cycle. Soobs often need to be burped. Did this problem show itself after any maintenance, mods or a wreck?

ran across references to 'big-bang' engines and then saw this wiki article about several weird firing sequences tried in motorcycles; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big-bang_firing_order#4-stroke_V4

nvrmd

make a good airboat/hovercraft motor I bet - flywheel effect from the prop would be helpful. and disty/carb equipped would be easier to set up I think. I recall a 'nature-type' program once where the guy converted a small in-line 4 to steam. Used it to motor up/down the Amazon or Rio Negro using driftwood for fuel.

most likely what they said - just mentioning I've had bad tires do something simialr to this - belts showing/tread separation on the inside shoulder area.

You should probably start with wiki or howstuff works. There are different types of limited slip devices. A couple of types, most recently viscous coupled, have been sold on soobs, and aftermarket LSDs that never came new on soobs. vicsous probably the easiest to model. edit; here's some info; http://www.houseofthud.com/differentials.htm

just wondering if you have a Check Engine Light on and if you could have the code read and post it here (like a P0123 type code.) if the stalling is related to a computer monitored sensor, it might be useful to help diagnose the problem(s) with the car.

possibly related. Get the coolant issue investigated soon. Maybe test with chemical test for exhaust gasses in coolant. Could be as simple as bad radiator cap, thermostat, etc.(careful with aftermarket thermostats) Or a few other stalling possibilities. IACV/throttlebody gunked up, TPS, etc. CEL on?

If you don't want to buy tools and materials and learn a new skill (soldering or wire crimping) you could get your $15 back and order the cable assembly from an online parts dealer for about $70. Or take the stuff you have now to a familymember/friend that's a gearhead, have him do it for pizza or a 6-pack. Or have your mechanic do it for $20 and a lotto ticket.

if you stay with the Otto cycle, that thing is gonna lope like a Harley. potato,potato,potato,potato,potato

hmmm....maybe fill-in between alternate lugs behind the crank sprocket to get half the crank angle sensor pulses????? easier if it runs 2 cycle? I dunno - lol! proably harder to dream up ways to fool the existing ECU than to build something from scratch to run it. Easier with an older engine with a distributor and SPFI probably. might need a heavier flywheel or a true harmonic balancer up front..... thinking about this dained my bramage. lol! weird

maybe more than you want to spend - but KYB is the 'go to' brand for most folks. check prices at RockAuto. about $125 a pair. dunno about gabriel, but folks do NOT seem to like Monroe. as for alignment, if the tires are not worn unevenly and you have no other issues, just mark the position of the alignment bolt when and put it back the same way when you install th enew struts. likely you will be close enough. Of course, you could still spring for an alignment after a coupla more paychecks. there are DIY alignment instructions and maybe videos online too.

I'd think, at this point, a clean well-crimped 'butt splice' - maybe smeared with some dielectric grease afterwards and tucked out of the way, will be way ahead of the performance of the old corroded cable set. maybe not 'like new' but , for $15, it should freshen everything up fairly well. You might find a youtube video example of what you're doing. Be careful working over,around or near the battery. best to do as much as possible away from it and don't get 'casual' swinging wrenches or screwdrivers around next to it.