-
Posts
10141 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
105
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
-
almost certainly viscous, and many folks claim they're toast after 65K. at least, that's what I've read.
-
I have no experience with doing this (well, a very long time ago, I tried a split boot on a Honda - didn't las a month) BUT, maybe you'remebering this;http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118248 also, if you do decide to go with a local rebuilder - MANY people (including me) have successfully used DAPE in north Fort Worth. (around 33rd street I think. )
-
OK, it looks like my springs either flat-out won't work for you, or would require some new parts and a lot of 'finagling' according to this http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1303381 ^^^but that looks like a decent resource for you - lots to read though. also, I found this;http://boardreader.com/thread/wrx_lowering_springs_on_obs_struts_ym8X2sbh.html might have some good info in there somewhere. maybe someone will post here with actual experience doing what you need.
-
if your 99 has it's original struts, they are all but certain to be weak.(my wife's 03 OBW was 8 years old with only 65K miles and had a blown rear strut - lift the boot and feel oil on top) There is a little gas 'springiness' to them, but not a lot. If your car seems 'saggy' when completely empty, it's springs might be worn out. More likely if you know the car has been operated a lot overloaded or at/near max load. You could, plan to swap the struts (KYB highly recommended by many but other options are available), when you have the springs off, compare their 'free length' to new spring dimensions. But, if you find they have sagged, you will need to quickly locate your replacements cause the car will be down until you get replacement springs. dunno about fitment(anyone?), but I have some near-new (<900 miles) 06 WRX wagon springs in my attic.
-
The Awesome Vehicle Picture Thread
1 Lucky Texan replied to TheLoyale's topic in Non Soob Cars and Bikes Discussion
-
The text IS confusing - but they just label that an EJ25 without any other letters. no connection with them - just something I recalled seeing. Can't help but wonder if temperature cycling something like that aftermarket mod couldn't result in just as much movement as not closing in the deck. I dunno, CNC stuff is pretty good nowadays.
-
no question Subaru was pushing the envelop on those dimensions. Didn't help that banning asbestos might have come along about the same time. I've read that it lead to a few other brands having iffy headgaskets. and we STILL have folks with newer cars and external drips.
-
http://www.cgperformance.com/subaru_block.htm
-
Do a search here for threads related to that code and evap problems. Sometimes a connector at the charcoal canister is corroded - or the canister gets punctured. Seems like you will need to diligently start searching for evap and other vapor/vacuum lines/canisters or equipment (like plastic nozzles/nipples/tee fittings) that may be broken, cracked, missing or wrongly connected. Start with any place the car has been damaged, modded or repaired. Sometimes, a 'smoke' test can find vacuum leaks - or , uh, carefully, using a propane torch with it's valve cracked open a little to blow propane around the vacuum lines will cause the engine to idle-up. I'd reserve that as a last ditch effort. ugh - laptop dieing
-
If possible, record the PXXXX codes, record any Freezeframe data too if available (short and long term fuel trims fo rinstance might be helpful) and have them clear the codes. (sometimes, due to laws, they must show you which button to push to clear the codes) then, monitor how quickly the CEL comes back, and have the code re-read. Sometimes just odd electrical glitches will set a code, sometimes sensor get 'lazy' and might only set codes every few weeks under very specific conditions. Codes are good for pointing to 'areas' that are exhibiting performance outside of pre-set thresholds - BUT, the ECU only reacts to what it's sensing. When senors are bad or have poor connections, a CEL is set. Don't be too concerned if O'Reilly's printout claims you need a catalytic conv. for instance. Sometimes you just need a new sensor, or a vacuum hose is loose or cracked. OBDII is nice, but not a perfect guide.
-
we even keep a few Tripletts around here at work, but I haven't seen anyone use one in 10 years. i guess it's just hard to let them go! maybe chek ebay. edit - yep, there's some on ebay!