1 Lucky Texan

if your 99 has it's original struts, they are all but certain to be weak.(my wife's 03 OBW was 8 years old with only 65K miles and had a blown rear strut - lift the boot and feel oil on top) There is a little gas 'springiness' to them, but not a lot. If your car seems 'saggy' when completely empty, it's springs might be worn out. More likely if you know the car has been operated a lot overloaded or at/near max load. You could, plan to swap the struts (KYB highly recommended by many but other options are available), when you have the springs off, compare their 'free length' to new spring dimensions. But, if you find they have sagged, you will need to quickly locate your replacements cause the car will be down until you get replacement springs. dunno about fitment(anyone?), but I have some near-new (<900 miles) 06 WRX wagon springs in my attic.

^^^^good advice, if using the belt dressing on the belt DOESN'T improve things immediately, let us know for other possible suggestions.

I wouldn't know how to do it on my wife's H6 with the coil on plug deals. I really am not experienced much on newer cars.( I read a lot and am trying to learn) I remember when the only vacuum line went to the distributor!

dig around here; http://opposedforces.com/parts/

in the old days, if a car was missing at idle, you could pull one wire, if the engine gets worse (or, with a 4 cyl, more likely dies) you put that wire back, restart, pull another wire. When there is no change, you found a dead cylinder. (bad plug or wire or ???)

not unusual for belts to loosen and need SLIGHT additional tension. Of course, it could be something else - but if the belts a fairly new, I'd check the tension.

The text IS confusing - but they just label that an EJ25 without any other letters. no connection with them - just something I recalled seeing. Can't help but wonder if temperature cycling something like that aftermarket mod couldn't result in just as much movement as not closing in the deck. I dunno, CNC stuff is pretty good nowadays.

no question Subaru was pushing the envelop on those dimensions. Didn't help that banning asbestos might have come along about the same time. I've read that it lead to a few other brands having iffy headgaskets. and we STILL have folks with newer cars and external drips.

http://www.cgperformance.com/subaru_block.htm

maybe slipped cam timing - was the belt done at 105K? who did the work and what was replaced? any wrecks, repairs, towing, mods done before this happened?

Suppose the tensioner is bad? Did you get a new one or re-use yours? How did you compress it? just a w.a.g.

it sorta does, but wouldn't he be losing coolant? maybe i missed that.

Do a search here for threads related to that code and evap problems. Sometimes a connector at the charcoal canister is corroded - or the canister gets punctured. Seems like you will need to diligently start searching for evap and other vapor/vacuum lines/canisters or equipment (like plastic nozzles/nipples/tee fittings) that may be broken, cracked, missing or wrongly connected. Start with any place the car has been damaged, modded or repaired. Sometimes, a 'smoke' test can find vacuum leaks - or , uh, carefully, using a propane torch with it's valve cracked open a little to blow propane around the vacuum lines will cause the engine to idle-up. I'd reserve that as a last ditch effort. ugh - laptop dieing

wondering if the TB could be slipping on the water pump. Maybe see what happens with out the t'stat?

If possible, record the PXXXX codes, record any Freezeframe data too if available (short and long term fuel trims fo rinstance might be helpful) and have them clear the codes. (sometimes, due to laws, they must show you which button to push to clear the codes) then, monitor how quickly the CEL comes back, and have the code re-read. Sometimes just odd electrical glitches will set a code, sometimes sensor get 'lazy' and might only set codes every few weeks under very specific conditions. Codes are good for pointing to 'areas' that are exhibiting performance outside of pre-set thresholds - BUT, the ECU only reacts to what it's sensing. When senors are bad or have poor connections, a CEL is set. Don't be too concerned if O'Reilly's printout claims you need a catalytic conv. for instance. Sometimes you just need a new sensor, or a vacuum hose is loose or cracked. OBDII is nice, but not a perfect guide.

maybe check here to track features and options thru the years; http://www.cars101.com/forester.html I'm sure it's too new for you but, 2011 models got the FB engine with a chain instead of TB.

hmmm.... I HAVE had 'spurious' codes set in our Outback when the battery had a bad cell. Could be battery/batt cables/charging/alt related i suppose.

definitely varies by State. used to be just weight of the car (road damage) but, they decided they could 'soak the rich' so, newer cars paid more. dunno what the formula looks like now that they'd like to get older cars off the road.

there's also a sensor in the brake fluid reservoir that could be bad or the wiring from it is compromised. Maybe the HID install compromised a ground connection?

we even keep a few Tripletts around here at work, but I haven't seen anyone use one in 10 years. i guess it's just hard to let them go! maybe chek ebay. edit - yep, there's some on ebay!

I have to do that gusset squeeze maneuver before any serious road trip. No luck training the wife to avoid pushing on the glass when closing the doors.

Yes, you're introducing more fresh oil, however, you also are collecting combustion byproducts and, probably more importantly, fuel from blowby. the fuel probably reduces your viscosity. Overall, you might consider just keeping a 'normal' interval and trying a higher viscosity or a brand made for high wear engines. also, make darn certain your PCV valve and hoses are clean.

I know it isn't dead - just trying to save those starting electrons for use in that last 1/2 mile before your driveway!

5 sp? maybe talk some coworkers into a push start! good luck