1 Lucky Texan

man, tough um, I'll just offer that, if the knock sensor caused the system to retard to max, i think you could get 'power loss'. Seems like another thread followed along like that. Dunno if it would actually stall when put in gear. won't FreezeFrame data show the knock advance/retard from the OBDII ?

Just trying to think of something that could rattle at both sides. As for upgrades, Most folks go for the rear sway bar, but given that you are actually off road regularly, perhaps an upgrade at both ends could be in order? maybe someone else will jump in here.

I guess you've checked the antisway bar links and brackets?

awesome replies.

I had bought several parts in preparation for car maintenance/repair last October. One thing I didn't get around too was coolant system. After reading here and elsewhwere about the need to avoid aftermarket t'stats, I thought, 'great, I'll have to eat the t'stat I bought - or try to swap it for partial excahnge on the xacstat'. Turns out, the one RockAuto sent me IS an Xacstat. 48457 says made in japan on the box (also says 170degrees ???) anyway, guess I'll use it - probably install it in April.

the radiator/AC fans are electric. My wife's OBW got a little quieter when i put synthetic fluid in the front diff. perhaps, if the dealership seviced the front diff, the previous owner had a heavier weight/'different' oil in there and the Subaru fluid is allowing it to sound a little louder. Or maybe they failed to top it up. Have you checked the front diff's fluid level?

just putting in the possibility of temp sensor. Could allow good running at 'true cold' start, but over-rich when warmed up. Might not throw a code.

I recall reading that many times - just don't have the experience with it you guys do. It isn't often you see someone complain about ANY engine knocking noise that disappears though, so, TB tensioner might not be the issue here. kinda weird. maybe a compression test would show a coupla low cylinders? that would be a slipped timing indication right?

It certainly is true that I suggest the 'timing is off' possibility MUCH more often than it seems to happen. But it's just something 'on the list'. It isn't common, just shouldn't be overlooked. And the 'weird knocking noise' 'could' have been the TB flopping around - maybe leading to a skipped tooth. Sometimes folks can even see a rubbed spot on the inside of the TB cover. It just kinda fits the symptoms a little.

for 'everyday use' I add 10% but keep the 1 psi difference. So about 33/32 or so. for extended trips with a load - I might add a couple more psi. As stated above, too much and the contact area is diminished. And you need good braking precisely because you are heavily loaded!

The plug gap I found for my wife's car was listed as .040 - .044" IIRC. If you decide to check the gap before installation, be VERY careful as I've read it is easy to damage the iridium/platinum tip.

yeah, if the CEL is on, post up the codes. But, of course, double checking the TB timing is a good place to start. Could be a tooth off.

Pretty sure the black Roki filters have been replaced. jamie at https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/index.php (she's great with question, races too! http://www.subiegal.com/ ) will know. she has helped me several times with parts and odd questions about parts.

serpentine belt pulleys; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/16823-h6-tensioner-bearing.html is it an automatic? you should also check the front diff fluid level. It's dipstick is on the passenger side down low. maybe the dealer just didn't get enough oil in there.

maybe one of the small Isuzu diesel engines? Or from a tractor or genset? VW? Audi? could be a fun project. anyone done a propane conversion?

I did try one of those split boots on a Honda 25-30 years ago. Didn't know they still made them. Didn't last a month.

check the level on the dipstick. take it out, check the other fluids, check the tires, maybe top off the battery - then, check the oil. Waiting with the stick out for a few miuntes often gives a better reading. I'm in texas and I run walmart synthetic 5-30 in the winter and Shell Rotella T synth. 5-40 in the summer.

some possibilities; tabs on lower part of intake filter box not seated in slots (usually more of a whooshing sound) serpentine belt tensioner and/or idler pulley bearings going bad (known problem) air being sucked into PS pump at fitting on top that suction hose from tank is connected too. (known problem)

\ \ can you get a vacuum crevice tool or brush on it? Could be really blocked with debris reducing airflow.

yeah - he did well. Any correlation to wet/damp conditions? maybe coil or wires arcing-out. Could there be a Throttle Position Sensor issue? Or fuel pump?

startlingly cool projects! I bet that Bradley is gonna be crazy!

I should have been more clear. Yes, my daughter had some buildup on the terminals, however, the cables had hidden corrosion under the insulation. To the extent we even heard arcing during one jumpstart event. It isn't uncommon for battery CABLES to go bad over time. I think water/acid/fumes/condensation/salts can 'wick' or flow down the strands under the insulation. Just a consideration, but, as said, she also had intermittent stalling and intermittent starting failures and odd CEL occurrences.

I'm gonna suggest you add corroded battery cable(s) to any list of possibilities. My daughter just had your exact symptoms fixed with new cables on a 06 Chevy Impala.

I've had 'some' luck when showing local dealer an online price and asking how close they can get. Matched one time, and close enough at a different instance. With shipping vs sales tax - you still need to watch the bottom number.

Should aslo point out that, a brake upgrade is only as good as the tires. Run max or ultimate performance all-seasons (or summer rubber). THEN you'll be shocked how quickly you can stop!