1 Lucky Texan

http://www.testdriven.co.uk/news.cfm/2008-subaru-diesel-legacy-sports-tourer-and-outback points to look for; chain driven , roller-rocker cams 60mm or so shorter block variable vane turbo (I bet a MONSTER gas engine could be built borrowing a lot of these parts!) Carl

Nice - kinda reminds me of my old Civic wagon, it was green (snif) Drove that thing for over 19 years - now I think of it, wasn't all that green when I sold it - VERY oxidized paint! Carl

OK - I was just made aware of a strange occurence that will sorta fit in this thread. Ya know how Google Maps has 'street views'? Well, I dunno if they are photograhing DFW area in general (a coworker says Google will loan equipment to volunteers doing even small areas) or what - but MY address now has a street view. Not strange enough? OK - you can see my WRX wagon parked in the drive (and my daughter's Maxima on the street) plain as day. STILL not interested? OK - My wife's outback was RIGHT IN FRONT of the van/whatever taking the pics! You can 'follow' her right outta my neaighborhood! http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&time=&date=&ttype=&q=3811+rustic+forest+76016&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=32.91431,83.320313&ie=UTF8&ll=32.69483,-97.197289&spn=0.008523,0.020342&z=15&iwloc=addr&om=0 click on street view and zoom,manipulate the view or click on the arrow north and follow our Outback! (you may need to click south about 6-8 times to see my white WRX wagon) We are fairly sure this was done between the end of august but just before halloween - probably mid-late October. Carl

I'm reluctant to give up the '5' side of the viscosity spectrum, especially in the 06 with warranty - but I could probably run 10-30 in winter and 10-40 in summer in both my vehicles to good effect. Maybe 10-40 after 100K miles of wear all year round. I dunno Carl

In addition to nasioc for high performance, I think there are some sandrail guys doing internals and other major upgrades. maybe outta Australia? carl

Are OEM pads for WRX ceramic? I thought I read that somewhere. Seems semi-metallic would be more likely but ??? Carl

that magnum seems more practical - and accesible - than that british zero. Hmmm- wonder if anyone has transplanted a Prius drivetrain into a lighter 'kit' type car? Carl

fyi http://blackjackzero.com/mainindex.htm

Yep, with 4 wheels 'hooked up' there's less 'burnout' and more 'break off'(of gear teeth). It can be a problem with stock power. Kids think they can rev to redline and sidestep the clutch with no consequences. 'Dog tooth' (RA) gear sets (full or sometimes first and second only?) are a stronger - if noisier - set up. That's what Ive read anyway. probably someone here has some experience with that. Carl

guy at nasioc has a built motor that goes 804 hp. Stock crank. But yeah, who knows what the durability is gonna be if he's got his foot in it all the time! Carl

I plan to continue using Shell Rotella 5-40 in my WRX in summer and 5-30 in winter. Both synthetic. So far, I stick with 5-30 in the wifes 3.0 OBW. I would probably switch to 5-40 if it began using oil from wear, but it is still young in mileage. this of course is in Texas. interesting to see the 5-50 development. Could be helpful for some folks I suspect. Carl

I'd put the EBC Yellows on your list. At present, I plan to use them when I swap out the OEMs on my WRX. BTW - the OEM pads have survived MUCH better than expected, even after 3 track events. Also, Valovoline SynPower fluid might be worth a look, if your fluid's getting old, - good value for occasional high-performance demand. to save a little money on OEM try here; http://www.subarugenuineparts.com you could also look here for info; http://www.subarureview.com/ Carl

you could consider the Synth. Rotella 5w-40 . Or maybe run it in the summer and 5w-30 in winter. yuo might enjoy the forums at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com where folks actually send various oils in for analysis. Carl

Be sure to check ebay. Dunno about the mask(might be more rare) but I got my OEM cargo liner and net (for my WRX) and a security cover for the wife's OBW from ebay. Carl

My wife has an '03 OBW and has the opposite complaint - it does not auto-lock when exiting the vehicle (like her van did). I THINK I read there is a set of connectors under the driver side door sill or behind the panel in front of it that will enable the auto-lock feature. Dunno if it requires any special attention to the alarm. Perhaps the alarm would still need to be activated. Maybe a dealership (or close look through the manual) could explain the feature? Carl

An alternative might be to have Dale Teague at boxer4racing install Koni yellow adjustables in your (or core swap) struts. You'd need to email him about your year/model. Otherwise - what they said. I THOUGHT I read KYB makes soob's struts. Carl

how about Foresters in Russia!

????? bump - repaired yet?

Dale Teague at www.boxer4racing.com has a few legacy perf. parts. Dunno about an intake. Carl EDIT: CONE to MAF adapter - $20 INJEN intake; But i dunno what years/models they fit - probably need to email Dale to confirm. I am just a happy customer - got my muffler from them. No other connection. Carl

Any OBDII codes stored? I'm gonna suggest a SeaFoam or other similar treatment. Cheap and maybe some carbon will be knocked of a valve that's sticking. How did the plugs look when you pulled 'em? obtw - how many miles on the vehicle? Carl

This is what I recall reading PLUS the bearings are very sensitive to mis-alignment during installation and care must be used to do it with proper equipment. Carl

Awesome car - hope it works out for ya. You can always get an Obus Forme or other back support dealie to put in - or get some 'take-offs' from someone pulling the seats outta an '06 or '07 - they are very nice. Or aftermarket seats. nice looking vehicle Carl

Once I had my wife's grandmother sew up a new shifter boot from leather. She used the old vinyl one for a pattern. Worked great! (this was for a '69 Datsun SRL311 - wish I still had that car.-sigh) Carl

yeah, from the link provided above; 8. Program remotes: works on Alpine system. Unlock all doors, foot on brake, all doors closed. Cycle key quickly but carefully on-off appr 10 times until the car honks one time. Do not turn the key far enough to start the car, just to the 'on' position so the dashboard lights up. When the horn honks, open and close the driver's door, press any remote button and that's it. Program another remote? Quickly open and close the driver's door again and push a button on the 2nd remote. That's it. When you're done, remove the key and the horn should honk 3 times. You're all set. Sometime it takes more than 10 on-offs to set program mode. Open/close the door, lock/unlock etc, wait 10 minutes, then try again. OR take it to the dealer. I'd expect they could do that at no charge. Did you buy a replacement remote from EBAY or somewhere? I've heard on some systems the freq./code/whatever numbers on the back matter. Carl

subiegal has pics; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1238165