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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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Other than making sure the engine is in top running condition and using the correct fuel grade - anything under the hood is gonna require some extensive work or a swap (2 liter turbo from a wrecked STi or WRX or a front clip from Japan or ?) Lighter pulleys, lighter rims, lighter flywheel if manual tranny will free up some ponies for acceleration. There's lot more potential in suspension work to make a fun AutoX or rallyX machine, not so much for 1/8 or 1/4 mile. check the NA forum at www.nasioc.com too. Carl
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If you throw out the highest and lowest numbers from this thread so far, total all the other numbers and divide, I get approx. 71.6 . I see no reason not to use 70-75 ft/lbs and then just check the torque a few times, especially on new alloys. There is further discussion we could pursue as it relates to lug nut/rim seat profiles, use or not of anti-seize, nut thread engagement, etc. I think there is a page at www.tirerack.com that discusses lug nuts. be careful out there. Carl
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Tires
1 Lucky Texan replied to Bo13mwz's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Triple Treds are almost universally praised, but in Dallas may be overkill. I'd definitely spring for a tire that can take heat though. But the little ice and almost non-existent snow we get will be taken care of by the AWD without worrying much about the tire;s snow performance. Make sure the tires you do get are rotated at least every alternate oil change. just my 2 cents Carl -
In texas the vehicle must be in for the SAME problem(safety or operational) 3 times within some fairly small number of months. That is, if you have 5 DIFFERENT things that make the car stall 3 months, you're stuck. But if the ECU or ABS is bad 3 times in 3 months you might get a new car (I think minus some pro-rating for your use of the vehicle) and the opportunity to use the LL goes away after a year or something. I'd expect california law to be different in detail, but similar in intent. Carl
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If no luck, you could try buying an OEM unit from one of the onlive dealers. I've purchased from jamie at http://www.subarugenuineparts.com but there are others. Um - perhaps an '03 is worth trying? (take some measurements and a tape measure in with you. Oh, be sure to double check that the tabs at the other end of the filter box are seated correctly - on some models it's easy to mis-align when reassembling) Carl
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The only thing I can add is, from a LOT of reading here and some at another board, I've never encountered someone with your noise symptom having a center diff problem. Not saying you couldn't have a unique situation. Or 2 different problems. Rear diff? maybe. frozen caliper - possible. Wheel bearing - very likely. Its a common source for the type noise you report on most cars in general. Can you have someone pace the car in a parking lot, have them alternately lisen to both sides and maybe they will hear the bearing? good luck Carl
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does the sound change when turning? A sweeping curve left versus a sweeping curve to the right? A wheel bearing would likely be noisier during a turn as more stress is transfered to the opposite side. have the backing plates been examined on the brakes? Is brake wear uniform? After a drive, would all 4 wheel hubs feel like they are the same temp or is one hotter than the others? Has the car ever been driven through very deep water? I THINK it's possible for water to get sucked into a vent on top of the housing, possibly contaminating the oil. I dunno Carl