1 Lucky Texan

I THINK there is some discussion about rotors in the 'technical/white papers' at www.stoptech.com . Also, the brake forum at www.nasioc.com might be good to search through. And I also have read that, for most of us, plain or slotted rotors are prefered to cross drilled. Carl

If the issue with 'black stuff' in the radiator cannot be addressed/reapaired before the trip - rent a vehicle. many of the issues mentioned are common to ALL cars, just because they seem to occur at once, does not reflect on the Subaru or its age. Even IF it cost 4K (sounds like it may not need everything done at once if it runs well) that's like - what? - 15 new car payments? If you get another used car, it could very well have most of the same problems. If the car no longer meets your needs, yeah - consider trading it in - though, if its present condition is as poor as the neighbor suggests, it will be devalued. I say, no out of town trips as is, investigate further, address anything that needs immediate attention(raditor/headgasket, clutch, brakes), schedule things like plugs/wires, accessory belts, etc. over the next year or two. Even a bad CV joint will last for months. Carl

I'm using it in my WRX, to get the 40w rating at the top (it's 5w-40 IIRC). No problems so far but I don't really have a good number of miles on. I change oil every 4-6K so , even if it were rated a little below M1 in quality, I feel I'd still be getting superior lubrication to non-synth with a little 'lee way' should I be late on a change. I dunno (BTW - Rotella is a Shell Oil product) Carl

I have read (here I think) of someone using a portion of bicycle inner tube to make a pressure bleeder. Cut out a section with the schrader valve, fold one end over enough to be able to secure and seal it air tight, stretch the open end over the MC reservoior and secure with a hose clamp/whatever to make an air tight seal, connect to schrader va;ve and pressure inflate the tube. sounds like it would work - I dunno, haven't tried it myself. Carl

I was thinking the PART was about $800? I dunno. Recently, someone posted success at 'fixing' a VC by driving figure 8s and tight circles in reverse!. Carl

Price may be high - check here, http://www.edmunds.com/used/2003/subaru/outback/100159772/options.html good luck Carl

Although it is still low miles, our '03 H6 OBW has had only 1 'moderate' problem - A/C comp. hoses leaked out refrig., replaced under warranty. A coupla other minor problems also fixed under warranty. It has enough power to get on the freeways here in D/FW no problem - engine is glass smooth. Several times a year we load it up with show gear - no issues at all. I actually prefer our 03's interior to the '06 loaner I drove. I also once had a Forester loaner, it was OK, just seemed to have more body roll that ecpected. Plus, the seats were a little less comfy. Carl

check ebay also check http://www.katzkin.com/05/FC/mainFS.html Carl

Will he get the same problem with the car stationary and turning the wheel lock to lock? Carl

You could also post in the nasioc.com wanted section Carl

or this; http://www.xexauto.com/engilsh/exhaust-tip.htm Carl

Good idea, wonder if these wires share a harness somewhere that got cut/burned or a connector or ground connection? Carl

do post #3, if codes come back, do post #2 cause the air flow sensor is prolly WAY more expensive than the temp sensor. Reset the ECU after any work on the system. Carl

tint (Huper Optik if you have the $$$)and a Dashmat will help with sun damage and A/C. Carl

Be sure to check over at http://www.nasioc.com many WRX buyers swap wheels and the new ones ('06) are 17x7 IIRC (I sold my stockers when I got my SSRs) just a though Carl

No stored code in a '95? d@ng!

Just a wild idea, it might be worthwhile to push/pull flex some cables around when it fails and try starting it. But crank sensor would be something that must satisfy the ECU before it will attempt to start the car. I don't recall - do you have a check engine light on? Can you get the code read? I think your car might be OBD II and borrowing a reader might be tricky. I dunno Carl

"If something is pestering your soul......" soul annoy..... ah never mind! Carl

subscribe

solenoid?

Any recent service? Sometimes the air filter box isn't clipped in properly. Usually reported as more 'whooshing' I guess. I dunno Carl

OW! - stop twisting the knife! Carl

If it were heated (during or after) andpulled out - might be OK. Otherwise - yeah, just pulling it out will leave it 'work hardened' - but it might be annealed by heating and be OK. Carl

Wow - you are good! It kinda confirms my gut insticnt that you probably would want your 'target' speed (in your selected gear ratio) to be at or just before peak torque rpm - certainly not after because there are times you need a little xtra power to -say- pass a semi before settling back down to cruise speed. Plus, there are problems 'lugging' an engine if the rpms are too low for the speed/ratio in use -overheating,etc. I dunno - good work finding all that stuff I don't understand! Carl

Hey guys, is there 'rule of thumb' or something about this? Like 'best gas mileage is peak torque RPM minus 10%' or something? Would it be worthwhile to find an AWD dyno first and get the chart for his car to find peak torque/hp ? just wondering Carl