1 Lucky Texan

Any recent service? Sometimes the air filter box isn't clipped in properly. Usually reported as more 'whooshing' I guess. I dunno Carl

OW! - stop twisting the knife! Carl

If it were heated (during or after) andpulled out - might be OK. Otherwise - yeah, just pulling it out will leave it 'work hardened' - but it might be annealed by heating and be OK. Carl

Wow - you are good! It kinda confirms my gut insticnt that you probably would want your 'target' speed (in your selected gear ratio) to be at or just before peak torque rpm - certainly not after because there are times you need a little xtra power to -say- pass a semi before settling back down to cruise speed. Plus, there are problems 'lugging' an engine if the rpms are too low for the speed/ratio in use -overheating,etc. I dunno - good work finding all that stuff I don't understand! Carl

Hey guys, is there 'rule of thumb' or something about this? Like 'best gas mileage is peak torque RPM minus 10%' or something? Would it be worthwhile to find an AWD dyno first and get the chart for his car to find peak torque/hp ? just wondering Carl

yeah - what just happened? I don't even know how I did that? sudden Ahlzheimer's onset? hahaha! weird sorry guys - my bad (probably, somehow) Carl

Well, if I'm doing say - 70 on the highway and my rpms are 3K, is that 'chosen' for a reason? It isn't 4k - nor is it 2k. So, what is the 'design criteria' that determines the best gas mileage at a given speed? Wouldn't you also want to be nearer the torque peak at higher speeds due to drag? And, if someone has modified a vehicle such that the peak torque has shifted in the rpm range - wouldn't the 'ideal' (mileage-wise) gear ratio be different than before? I'm just thinking a trip to the dynamometer might be wise before selecting the final gear ratio. I once owned a vehicle that had the SAME top speed in 5th as it did in 4th. But mileage was better at highway speeds in 5th. So, just having a higher final ratio is no guarantee of higher mileage if you're way below the torque peak (I'm guessing) cause you're just gonna have to mash harder, heat is gonna build up from 'lugging' the engine, etc. sorry if this seems off topic - but it is related Carl

Have a piercing parlor put a ring through the skin in front of your shin, just below the knee. Then put a ring through the toe of your right shoe, attach a small adjustable bungee cord between the rings and adjust to hold your foot back while at rest. You should still be able to press the go pedal when desired - but when relaxed, the bungee cord will retract your foot. DO EET! ;^) Carl

Hey guys, is there 'rule of thumb' or something about this? Like 'best gas mileage is peak torque RPM minus 10%' or something? Would it be worthwhile to find an AWD dyno first and get the chart for his car to find peak torque/hp ? just wondering Carl

If I had 1/4 the work in a car you have in that one I'd post every detail too. Fantastic ride - thanx for sharing. Carl

I'm just a flatlander in the SW but I'd expect a '95 in New York could have some corroded ground connections. Also, a light bulb or 2 could just be burned out. I wonder if a ground connection might be common to several of the problems you have. Do you have buddy or neighbor with any automotive experience to guide you? Electrical problems can be tricky even with a wiring diagram in a haynes repair manual or something. Do you have a repair book? If you decide to take it to a mechanic, let the group here know your location and someone might recommend a mechanic for you. Carl

....on Ebay - no connection, just saw it mentioned on usenet - fyi and sorry if WTLW, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180002334276 Carl

I haven't ripped into the WRX yet - but the wife's Outback very definitely would've been built with the capability - just paying for the dealer to install the filter. I dunno when the 'feature' became available - someone here probably knows or check www.cars101.com . Carl

you're right - for some reason I thought he said sitting 'for some time' or ???? lol! guess i was dreaming.......... At that mileage, you could have several sensors giving you problems in addition to coilpacks, wires, etc. If the C heck E ngine L ight (CEL) is on, having the codes read and recorded, then cleared, and a new restart attempted to see if new codes are set might be VERY helpful. Unfortunately, our favorite suggestion of "take it to Autozone and they'll read the codes for you" is gonna be tricky if it won't start. BTW - does it 'turn over'(crank) and no attempt to start, does it just sit there not even spinning the starter, or does it TRY to start but won't idle? Also, if it tries to start, is there a gas smell or any smoke? Carl

If you are gonna get into the internals and basically build an engine - then a LOT of possibilities open up for you. I dunno all of them, but between what some of the 'sand rail' community does to theses engines, and the Australians, and folks here and at www.nasioc.com - I'm sure you could beef up the output. Even spending a little xtra for a CCR short block or something might be an option. I do think getting the comp. ratio. down and adding the turbo is the way to go - better mileage if you keep your foot outta the boost but power on demand. Still, you're gonna be fighting engine management problems - what ECU to use? What about the tranny? Seriously, consider selling your car to a student or something and start with an easier 'base' for the fun tuning/modding you want to do. fun links; http://www.outbackmotors.com/subaru_JDM_motors.htm http://www.cgperformance.com/ http://www.ccrengines.com/ I found this thread interesting - dunno about helpful though! lol!; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1024396&highlight=1.8 (be sure to take pics of the project and check in for us once in a while - sounds like fun!) Carl

When turn it to on can you hear the fuel pump come on? Anyway - if a modern fuel injected car sits for 'some time' the pressure in the fuel system can decrease requiring more time for the pump to pressurize. Or possibly the wet weather is shorting the high voltage system. Maybe someone else has a guess. It would be nice to have more deatils on age/condition of the car and if a CEL came on. Carl

Someone here has maybe done that swap using a JDM motor or a motor from a wrecked older STi. But there will be a lot of info on it over at www.nasioc.com . Dunno if you can do it into an auto. I dunno what your rims weigh, I saved 3.5 pounds per corner and got wider, nicer looking wheels on my car('06 WRX). You would likely double your HP. some good rim/tire info at http://www.tirerack.com too. Carl

take out weight. Less mass=greater acceleration. dead weight(tools, spare, seats if you never use them), rotating mass (lighter flywheel, crank pulley, and lighter rims for less rotating AND unsprung mass) Your car CAN be competitive at autocross with some suspension bits but will never be a 1/4 - 1/8 miler. swap in a 2.0 turbo from a wreck Carl

Maybe you should just take a black marker to the wirenut and learn to love it. I dunno Carl

please double check your pain meds! lol! Carl (BTW - I sent then here from usenet for ANSWERS - not drug induced hysteria! hah!)

Looks like it's not extremely rare; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12635&highlight=parking+brake+release+button Maybe email Jamie thru http://www.subarugenuineparts.com for a price of a new one?

Exhaust leak? What model Forester? did they have a turbo in 2000? weird Carl

Seems like you COULD have 2-3 different problems. I would still go ahead and try 'burping' the coolant system. Try to find a procedure by user - setright -. Perhaps you have a bad thermostat - you didn't mention changing it. Do you have a CEL? If so, a code might point to a problem concerning the idle at start - I suppose a bad temp sensor could be telling the ECU to choke the car. Or some kinda IACV problem. Carl

You are getting some kinda numeric 'echo' with your reader. Look at the last two digits in those last 3 numbers. They are bogus. Some code readers - even if listed as OBD II - won't REALLY work with all OBD II cars. I THINK Subies have to be read with one that is ISO compliant. (there are IIRC 4 protocols) What reader do you have? Could you get to an Autozone and have them confirm the codes? I dunno Carl

wow! I don't recall how many miles were on your car but the front O2 could easily be shot. Just go through them 1 or 2 at a time, be sure to reset the ECU after any repair/sensor change, and confirm it does NOT come back. Might be a good idea to just try one cheap/easy one first. Also, double check the alt. and battery. good luck Carl