1 Lucky Texan

if this was towed recently, cold ambient temps might also have been helpful?

I think a big 'bang for buck' mod that also peronalizes a car is rims - preferably lighter weight than stock but regardless. It isn't cheap, but if you use one of the tools at Discount Tire, or maybe it's Tirerack's website, you can select your car, in its color, then virtually 'try on' rims. You could also put snow tires on your original rims for wintertime. (I'm guessing Mass gets plenty of snow) and, run stickier tires, better performance for 'spirited' driving/cornering. Cops almost ignore how fast you turn - going fast in a straight line gets you in trouble. After that, find a HDPE class, or try to get involved in local SCCA and try an autoX course. The 2 HDPE's I did were awesome, ran thru 3/4 tank of gas in a day.

double check diff fluid level afterwards.

maybe use a white grease pencil or some liquid paper and make a mark across the crank pulley. maybe it is delaminating?

I once had Toyota that started smelling of burnt rubber - just before the timing belt broke.

more details on car? My WRX feels like the torque is a sharp peak so, it comes on strong but below the peak torque is more 'normal' - makes it feel very different and the contrast is noticeable. But, there can be issues with a car where a timing belt is slipped 1 tooth, or maybe some other issue, that could make it feel much different on the road vs idle/lower rpms.

yeah, is the heat being misdirected to the windshield?

if the engine temp sensor were bad, it might signal the ECU to continue 'choking' the engine as if it were cold. I'd expect poor running and maybe a fuel smell in the exhaust...? the diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator can leak, look in the vacuum line for fuel.

it just is what it is. I will say, I have driven it on occasion like I stole it and, while it isn't ALL of them, those 5 spds have a poor reputation. Owned since new, no power mods, SPT pink springs and stromung axleback went on after a 1000 miles or so. it's close to needing a clutch I'm sure. I will probably farm that out and whoever does it I will also pay for 2-3 other things. Be due for it's second TB service, it'll get a waterpump this time. Block-off plates for the air-cut valves (forgot to mention I had to kill 14 codes for those things), service/remove the banjo bolt filters, might have a conversation about a tune, and maybe killer B oil pick-up., get a price for a TGV delete, I dunno, I don't have the money or really the inclination to rice it out or get nuts with it, but the torque is very 'peak-y' and maybe a tune could smooth that out a little? but I'm with everyone else, VERY risky buying one used.

yeah, I know mine is a ticking time bomb, and it is under 80K miles. already had a $2k transmission repair and replaced the radiator. god I love driving that thing.

you didn't specifically mention but, the calipers are free to slide on their pins?

I learn so much from GD.

clear the ECU, try to start, scan for codes. How old are the plugs? are they NGK appropriate for the car? inspect the cyl4 plug for sure. Look for signs of oil in the plug's tube/on the boot/plug. you could swap cyl 4 coil for cyl 2 to test coil, etc. If you need a mechanic, in a new thread, ask for recommendation of a soob-friendly shop near your city.

on some, it's under the shift trim like this;

more info on car please. kinda seems like it may have gone into 'limp' mode. maybe you've had a valve sticking or ???? proceed carefully and check everything including timing.

can't attest to accuracy, but there's info for different years/models here; https://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/

alt belt may be slipping, or, much less likely, 2-crank pulley is delaminated.

if it's a 4 cylinder, you may want to service the timing belt before starting it.

brief search shows that code can be caused by spending too long between ON and START ? seems weird, but maybe something related to ECU 'sensitivity'/race conditions. could explain why a poor ground or harness connection somewhere might cause it?

good time to inspect any brake lines that might run above the tank.

if you can find the right height goind up on a pair of ramps, or up on a stack of wood, etc., At which the car will run but 'stumble', try spraying starter fluid in the intake. If it smooths-out, you just proved it has some kind of fueling issue.

Forester will fit tall drivers. The turbo cars are quick and there are plenty of bits available to flatten cornering, improve braking, and tune the engine, etc. would make a fun 'sleeper'

On some cars it IS the same ECU, but some pins on the connector need to be jumpered together to switch from one trans type to the other. someone with better info will respond but, look for evidence of a clipped wire or an added jumper wire on the connections from the ECU.

I'll try not to test your temper, cause you must be one tough mother lover!

yeah, details eetc. 3 hours of operation /= 20 minutes of operation I like the coiled connection loop idea, still, might depend on the actual use.....