1 Lucky Texan

Try a search on this subject. Generally, 2-3-4 finer stages of wet sanding with a good wax or maybe a clearcoat spray. There are plastic polish kits too IIRC for this. (CAFE standards means getting the weight down - plastic wins over glass for weight. Some European market cars had (still have?) glass while we were getting plastic) Carl

Enjoy a 'cold tube' and cruise the exhaust reviews at http://www.subarureview.com/engine.php?PHPSESSID=59da332400b5149a2d74e1ab1c566fec Cusco, Borla, Gruppe-S and others offer headers, but I think a full header back - with possibly having the stock turbo 'ported' would be a better use of funds. Some folks have experienced 'cracks at the Y' (no - not THAT crack at the Y!) and heat problems with aftermarket headers. I dunno. I've read you will want OVER 3 inch dia. over 300hp - I dunno what dia. you have stock. So you may as well start with header back first. Then see where the best place to spend the next funds would be. You might also do some searching/reading/posting in the appropriate forums at www.nasioc.com - those guys are a huge database for performance mods. Carl

Please translate from Kiwi to Yank. (I'm guessing headers) Carl

That means you could use the '06 'racing'-style buckets! cool Carl

It ONLY happens when the car is moving forward? If you ever hear it when starting the engine, idling or reving the engine while staionary - could be a V belt. Carl

If my test fails, and it still takes several spins to start, then coolant temp sensor is still on the table because the engine would still be cold. DO EET! ;^) Carl

yep - any little 'waviness' look on the rotor will wear into the pads after the first few stops so having them machined flat again, for most of us, is probably a waste of time.money and rotor material. Carl

I JUST thought of a POSSIBLE test for either low compression from oil leaving the rings after sitting a long time OR my low fuel pressure theory. If you started the car under the failure conditions you mention (long cranking) then immediately turned it off, waited - say an hour or so, would it start with the same failure or start immediately? If immediately, I'd be tempted to have the fuel system checked out, and maybe a compression test. I dunno, my thinking here may not be complete - hah! Carl

I have heard higher pitched clicking sound come from behind me but reflect off the winshield such that they can sound like they're from the front. (no, I'm not on drugs!) Check things like wiggling headrests in the rear, or similar. Carl

I agree with cookie. Unless there was an extreme issue with torque when the rotors were installed, any 'warp' feeling is more likely to actually be surface changes in the rotor alloy itself. better to get new rotors usually. check www.stoptech.com the tehcnical white paper on the Myth of warped Rotors (IIRC) Carl

I interpreted it as 'catch' as in cylinders firing. I'd be suspicious of fuel pressure loss in the rails. service history would be good to know Carl

+1 for the paper trail. In many states 3 is the magic number for a 'lemon law' to kick in. If you have the same complaint 3 times within a certain period of time, you get a replacement car. Since the changed the 'motor' I'd expect any generic 'motor' complaint to count against your '3'. (Setright! - got any pics of the new ride on the track or ?) Carl

Well, I read a thread about this not long ago, maybe here(search?), and it seems years ago some trannys ahd pumps operating off the output shaft or something and they might push start around 40mph. But the newer trannys have pumps run off the engine and they won't engage being pushed. probably just heat parts up with no lube running across 'em and stress it unnecessarily. ymmv Carl

Pretty sure that's a no go due to no tranny fluid being pumped. Carl

This is a great resource and I THINK you could do some searches here (pay attention to crank pulley torque values) and maybe a coupla other places on the web, look at some photos and start buying parts from an on-line dealer (http://www.subarugenuineparts.com is one) maybe even locate someone in you area willing to come 'observe' in exchange for a six pack of Modelo Especiale or something! I say. wait and diy - whatever that's worth. Carl

possible parts sources OEM; try Jamie at http://www.subarugenuineparts.com some aftermarket/performance parts might be available from; http://www.boxer4racing.com I have no connection with them other than being a satisfied customer. Kartboy carries some aftermarket 'upgraded' bushings - mostly for WRX STI but some of those may work on a legacy, dunno there are a lot of other places of course.

Most likely as you say - normal wear items. The only odd thing I've ever read about is the occasional broken anti-sway bar. Carl

It is possible they are trying to 'upsell you' but it seems the other items they mentionare legit(some of the terms seem odd though). Generally, if you are paying someone else for the labor of diving under the timong covers, it IS best to overhaul/replace everything under there. I'd have a converstaion with them, explain that you're not able to afford everything they suggest and ask them which items are gonna be the best to spend money on immediately. If the seem uninterested in helping you make that decision - definitely take the car elsewhere. While oil leaks are unwanted, they are tolerable. But its a real bummer to pay for a timing belt and have the water pump or idler bearing seize up 8,000 miles later cause you 'cheaped out'. Carl

edit; see this; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57632 Didn't someone just fix pinging by changing their coilpack? Yeah, it was weird but it worked. Carl

Seafoam ;^) Carl

I think www.boxer4racing.com also has some legacy stuff. probably rebuild struts with Koni inserts for Legacys too. fyi Carl

me too. were the coils just firing continuously? weird. Carl

Its the meds - that's why he double posted in the other thread! nipper...NIPPER!!!...SNAP TO!!! Carl

Of course buying a replacement is straigtforward but I once took a bad shifter boot off my old '69 datsun 2000 convertible (SRL-311) and had a relative that sews take the old one apart and use it for a pattern and sew up a new one. I found the leather i wanted and had to buy a special needle for her IIRC - but it worked gtreat! just an idea Carl

wow, good post, I've only been lurking but I can't help wondering if some carbon deposits could be the cause instead of timing? Isn't compression a tad high? maybe carbon buildup? I dunno Carl