1 Lucky Texan

Assuming the offset keeps the centerline true (most likely) and the tires don't 'bulge' more - its only 5 mm (1/2 the difference). Do you have suspension mods or increased neg. canber or something? If not - should be good to go! If you're not keeping the old rims - sell them nect fall - there will be dozens of people looking for rims for snow tires. Carl

It appears I was wrong and those tires look right for 15" ! I say go for it! Carl At first glance it appears your odometer/speedometer would be off. Try going to www.tirerack.com and , after drilling through to rim choices for your 90 leg, choose to 'plus 1' size it and see what the recommended tire size is. unless of course someone here has done it! Carl

Could someone, carefully and safely, pace the car while listening at each corner and perhaps hear something? Or could you roll down the windows and drive near a wall/fence and listen for anything odd? After driving for some distance, try feeling of the wheels and comparing the temps all around. In case there's a sticking caliper, one wheel might be warmer. I dunno Carl

gas pedal huh? odd Any general vibration such that a passenger could hear or feel? Any odd sensations when making low speed tight turns as in parking? brake pedal feel OK when braking? I suppose something causing engine vibration could be transmitted through the throttle cable. maybe bad motor mount? I dunno Carl

I think your change schedule is fine. Personally, I'd run name brand 10-30 or maybe 10-40 in the summer with that mileage on the car , 5-30 in the winter.- but it's hard to argue your system hasn't served you well. perhaps someone else can comment further. Carl

anybody got a diagram of this? Or can whip up and post a cutaway drawing? just wondering Carl

That's a fair response - though a little 'anal' I guess. How low are you? You could put a quart of almost any oil on the shelf in and be OK till the next oil change. But yeah - keeping near the same viscosity is good. You might enjoy some of the info and forums at www.bobistheoilguy.com too. Carl

So, my advice on usenet not good enough! yeah, I see how this is. ;^) Carl 1 Lucky Texan

If it's a sweet, toasted marshmallow smell it could be a coolant leak. Sometimes a CV boot could split or get cut and throw grease on the exhaust. Sometimes a piece of plastic or something could get on the exhaust. Some folks get mice living in their cars! Definitely look around under the car. Of course , it could be mold in the A/C system - maybe the drain for the evaporater is clogged. If there is no fluids dripping on the exhaust, I'd try an A/C specialist shop. Carl

Take a torque wrench with you and double check the lug nuts between a coupla runs to make sure the wheels don't loosen up. Try to either have an air tank and a gauge with you or, at least, boost the tire pressure. How much? maybe someone can give you agood starting point - I ran 38 up front and 36 in the rear on my WRX. Take out any potential flying objects/xtra weight in the car too. Keep the shiny side up and greasy side down! have fun! Carl

I just assumed its the center diff in the auto that's the issue - probably because there's no fluid pressure or, even if there is, the duty C solenoid is in the wrong condition and torque bind will build up. I dunno Carl

Pretty sure if its a MT and has no LSD in the rear, you're OK. I'd double check with your manual or at http://www.cars101.com and confirm you have proper tire pressure. Carl

Could be the ECU is still making some changes - one tank wouldn't be a trend. Several maybe. Does it smell like formaldehyde? That's one of the 'new' emissions that occurs from ethanol - no one yet knows what that will do to the environment. I also sem to recall that ethanol will increase NOxs somewhat. Maybe try an ECU reset and track a few tankfuls. It does seem counterintuitive but hey - better mileage is a cool thing! Carl

I'd need a portable, stereo, digital, recording device. Hmm, if I can borrow a digital camcorder, do they have an audio jack that will upload just the audio on playback? I've never examined one. Or a laptop with a microphone and sound card right? Hmmm.... actually, this is a job for my BIL - he's a bigwig at Uniden and I know he has a laptop. I'm emailing him right now. Carl

Gott im Himmel! Forget about recording my car - let's hear about your new ride! So, when does the 'happy event' occur? Trading in the old horse? Did you come into an inheritance? what? Just exactly what prompted this? (actually, I'm also trying to deflect your question from the fact I am technologically challenged as to presenting a recording of my car. Hmmm... maybe my middle daughter's boyfriend could help me.... ) good news on your intended purchase! Carl

I don't think I could trust any fluid not knowing the extent of the flooding. Brake fluid LOVES water - though the reservoir is far from the ground. After you cleaned the IAC - did you clear the ECU? might try that. Pretty much, after ANY emissions or aur/fuel components are altered you should do that. If there's a vent on top of the diff/tranny, exposure to cool water can cause those units to suck water in I think. I dunno. so cool that it's doing so well, good work. Carl

Dale (?) Teague at www.boxer4racing.com can help you. That's who confirmed for me that my Stromung would fit - and it did! Good guy - even went to a dealership and looked around under the cars! Carl

COOL!!!! Carl

this might be helpful - I dunno; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781242 and you can download manuals here; http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I dunno exactly what the throttle body setup is like, even though my wife has an '03 - never had to dive into it like you are. There was a thread a few months back about the IAC - it evidently is easy to screw up. Try the 'search' function. If the car never becomes reliable, it might make a good 'parts' car. Just clean, refurb,inspect anything that comes off of it before transplanting! Carl

great! Carl

I'd 'guess' the misfires 'might' follow from the 'idle control circuit' being bad. A LOT depends on the history of this car. IIRC you said it was ina flood. Well, if someone tried to start and run it while the engine compartment was still wet - yeah, you're gonna get misfire codes. And once they are set, they might not get cleared for a while if some other issue continues to cause the car to run poorly. maybe someone here can tell you how to test the Idle Air Control motor/whatever. I would definitely start there. I also would maybe drive the car 3-4 drive cycles, see if it runs better, and have the codes read again, anything that shoes definitely would be helpful. Still quite possible corrosion has begun to eat at some connectors/wiring. Thsi car may never be reliable. Carl

I've used these guys for axles about 5 times; http://www.discountape.com/index.htm but they are local to me. Its been a while, but they used to install re-man axles for $150 total. I once even had them do it while i waited (45minutes). Considering just the outer joint and boot at the time was $70-$80 or so I thought it was a bargain. ymmv Carl

You could try an Autozone. They will read the codes at no charge (here) with their scanner. If it reads - you know the scanner you have is NFG and you will have some codes to run with. If it doesn't, well, you can pursue a different avenue. thanx for keeping us informed. Carl

I dunno, if no one here has experience with that, try the suspension forum at www.nasioc.com . I think there are other manufaturers that have coilover setups that don't need to lower perch - some may require welding - I dunno. Probably just need to find the right internal dia. to fit the strut housing and then the right spring rates. After you get some names of manufacturers - probably a coupla emails will tell you if it's feasible. sorry i got nuthin else! Carl