1 Lucky Texan

my '06 WRX wagon has rear LSD. but not locking I don't guess - dunno. I'm not sure about my wife's OBW. From the cars101 site, I think the LL bean's do and maybe the 4cyls. do. fyi Carl

If the prevoius tires had even wear I say no. The new wheels MAY indicate you intend to drive differently! If so, watch the new tires for uneven wear and then get an alignment done. Carl

D@ng! what's that deal called? There IS a not expensive device you can put in your car that can measure acceleration/hp based on vehicle weight and maybe other inputs. G something? anybody? they are available at some car parts places, ebay, etc. Mught be fun to have, better to borrow if anyone here has one or maybe a used one? If no one here knows ask at www.nasioc.com man...wait...yeah G-tech here's an example; http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/G-TECH-Performance-Meter-Pro_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ107062QQitemZ4625463630QQrdZ1 If you were very careful to make measuremnts before and after a mod under consistent conditions (fuel load, adjusting for weight gain/loss after a mod, weather temp tire pressurs,etc) it might work as an indicator of performance changes. also, found a thread here about it - maybe try a search (or email one of those guys) for more info; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27733&highlight=gtech fyi Carl

There are resistor fixes for the CEL - that way if another item sets a code it would get noticed. You may lose a little low end torque from what I've read. But the important thing is keepin the inside diameter the same as much as possible. Necking down or expanding causes a lot of turbulence and impedes flow. And mufflers with 'ridges' inside are worse that straight with just swiss cheese type holes or slots. I'd read and search the NA forum at http://www.nasioc.com in addition to info here. Also, consider lighter wheels (less rotating mass and less unsprung mass) lighter flywheel (some folks report problems under 11 pounds though - stay with 13 pounds) and maybe lighter pulleys. Carl

Most folks have good luck disconnecting the neg. battery terminal, stepping on the brake pedal (so the brake lights discharge any remaining voltage) and waiting 15-30 minutes. reconnect batt. and the ECU should be back at factory default settings and will begin 're-learning' the sensors and making adjustments to the emissions and air/fuel map as you drive. Might take a few drive cycles to really get back to 'normal'. Carl

One thing I learned about inspections, try to never watch. If you wait, go when they are busy and sit, stand where you can't observe or drop the car off and come back later. Their fear is being caught by the state and losing their license. I knew a guy who got busted because of a missing lugnut behind a hubcap! Total setup by the state inspectors. If you ask to watch or stand where you are observing - they must perform every step thouroughly. If they feel secure you're not from the state, they might do a 'cursory' inspection. Always try to go to the same location - they are very suspicious of newcomers with weird cars that ask to watch. fyi Carl

Your previous good mileage may very well have been due to a too lean condition from the IM leak. Yeah, it sounds like a good thing but could come at the expense of decreased intake valve lifespan or other components. Also, I THINK too lean conditions can create high NOx which can be bad for cat converters. Try an ECU reset first. Carl

I read of one guy recently who had a mysterious failure and another's who had done about 50 miles on a low (10psi) tire and toasted his VC center diff. I'd say is extremely uncommon. Carl

Possibly a little OT but, this is gonna be a continuing problem. many teen's first car is a hand-me-down from a parent. The popularity of SUVs means inexperienced drivers will be operating some of the largest vehicles made! I (as most of you) have been in and seen situations where someone is 'spotting' for someone else and indeed it is one of the most hazardous regular behaviors I see. That damage looks like $1800 +/- $500 but I really don't know - just basing it on some damage my neighbor did to my middle daughter's Nissan a coupla years ago. good luck Carl

Is the '06 WRX scoop unique or will older model and aftermarket scoops fit? I like the look of the '04 (I think it is) STi scoop and thought I would add it to my short list of future changes. Carl

according to; http://www.cars101.com/subaru/baja/baja2005.html 89 octane is recommended. Likely your manual say that but that 87 can be used. I dunno Carl

Everyone's heard of Dexron II right? Well, the original Dexron (I?) had whale oil in it! Also, it was the increasing scarcity/cost of whale oil that caused the development and popularity of kerosene - starting our move to the use of petroleum products! just a little trivia Carl

Yeah, a code like that, I'd be tempted to clear the ECU and see if it comes back before I did much of anything. Aren't some emissions warranty 5/50K ? I dunno - maybe wishful thinking! Carl

He didn't mention a CEL or likely someone would have suggested the knock sensor. Plus - it may very well be that, if the sensor were bad, the ECU would default to the safest timing map. I dunno. Anyone actually confirm 87 RON is proper for that vehicle? Carl

I'm not disputing the 87 listed in the manual - but NA engines often have higher 'native' CRs than turbo cars. I might be tempted to buy gas at a higher end station and perform an ECU reset and monitor a coupla tanks. Wouldn't hurt to use some Techron or seafoam either. If you're up to the task, examining the plugs might tell you if carbon could be an issue. I dunno Carl

In the old days my dad would run straight 20w in the winter and 30w in the summer. If there is concern about the higher viscosty RANGE being TOO thick in the winter, i see no reason a lower range couldn't be used. For some of you guys 0-30w may be best for a coupla, 3 months (even IF a little piston slap returns) then in spring move up to a 10-x or 15-x range of oil. I am gonna try running Rotella synthetic 5-40 year round in my WRX and may switch the outback over to it. I just feel the flow from 5w is never really required here but the Rotella is not expensive and has the protection of a 40w. If I they make it (and someone stocks it at a good price) I would run it in 10-40. ymmv Carl

makes sense to me. I didn't reread the thread - have u looked for a wet sparkplug after it sits for a while? maybe , if a single plug is wet with fuel, it will pinpoint the problem injector. Also, isn't there a regulator on the end of the the fuel rail? Could it have a leak? good luck and thanx for the update. Carl

Are you buying used or new? As said, any car perceived as a 'sports car' that is on the used car market has a higher chance of being abused. And the STi is 1/2 to 1/3 the price of other cars with similar performance - so it sometimes gets purchased by daddy for junior to tear around town in. Thsoe would be the cars to avoid. While I or you may enjoy the car's performance aspects, we are also more likely to understand about proper maintanance and are not lilely to engage in 5K clutch drops and 4 wheel burnouts, etc. I think it IS possible to get used sports cars that are in good condition - you just need to be more diligent. As for new, go and test drive the WRX sedan, wagon and the WRX STI and see what you like. I love my '06 WRX wagon. It's more car than I am driver and I really just didn't need the higher insurance and 'attention' that the STI would bring. here's me at the track in my ride; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/medium/3142plateless.JPG I was passing a mini cooper s, Porshce Boxter, miata, audi and infiniti - but was passed by all the other soobs and the Z06 and a GTI - depends on the driver's skill and waht mods you have on the car. I was running stock suspension and drivetrain and was a total noob. Still, most fun I had in decades! The STI is a LOT of car for the money and I'm sure you will enjoy it. But don't discount getting a WRX and spending a little to 'personalize' it with the savings in price. Carl

thanx!

A sunroof tranplant sounds like a challenge - you oughta documetn that with pics for us! Carl

Would an OBDII scan tool of some sort work? Or a Subaru specific tool? I'm gonna try the steering wheel test and look around in the gc/paperwork for some guide sheet. thanx Carl

OK, on my '06 WRX wagon I sprung for the security system 'upgrade' that, I guess, is a vibration sensor? Anyway, i was wondering if anyone here could point me to some instructions to ; A. test it and B. adjust its sensitivity. I'd like to try tweaking up the senstivity but I don't really wanna have to go back and forth to the dealer. Is it DIY ? thanx guys Carl

I might consider having a 'pro' at a detailing shop take a look too. Or experiment on some material from the junkyard! let us know

good idea! or build one of these; http://www.meyersmanx.com/ Carl

I think it depends on how much and what shape surface area is actually supporting the engine. If a bolt or something pokey had 50-75 lbs of force over it - it could punch through. But a square of paneling or plywood under the engine would distribute the weight over many square inches and prevent any puncture. That should do it. If something happens - a used tray can usually be had on ebay - just got one for my WRX as a matter of fact. under fifteen bucks shipped! Carl