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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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I think you're right - at least some of the stuff I've read about the H6 indicates some 'charging' effect in the runners from valves closing elsewhere on the heads. I dunno. Also, over at nasioc I believe, someone HAS stuffed an H6 in an impreza chassis - and I think they twin turboed it too! That must sound wild!
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If you're gonna swap - why not the 2.0 turbo? As far as improvements for NA engines - yeah , other that internal stuff, maybe lighter wheels, lighter flywheel (probably not less tha 11 lbs. though - some report of CELs with very light FWs) lightened (not underdriven) pulleys. The above will not 'create' horsepower - but will remove losses and free up some ponies for the tires! Then spend money on suspension bits. Don't make a dragster outta it - go for autocross if you wanna race. Carl
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Maybe some steering rack bushings or something? There does come a time when you're just ready for something else, but, as the others say, make sure it's really wise. A new car is only new till you drive it off the lot. Then it's a used car. Don't believe me? Try to use it as a trade in after 2 weeks. that depreciation is probably close to what it would take to fix your car! And payments! You'll be paying 2-3 hundred dollars a month for a car anyway. I bet you could fix all those problems you listed for less that 10-12 months worth of payments. i dunno - I certainly have not made completely wise decisions on cars - what do I know. meh
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Most of your list needs attention. I THINK there is a known issue with the trip clock dealie - try ,as you start your car, hesitaing at each 'click' for half a second. A little more time spent at 'on' or 'acc' postion supposedly allows the trip computer to work correctly. I doubt there is anything wrong with the heater - almost every car made either roasts your foot or freezes it, seems there is no in between.
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+1 for checking the engine temp sensor. Also, I think the ECU uses the cam and crank sensors as 'checks' against each other for ignition timing. I'd get that issue resolved. (bad sensor, timing belt 'slipped' a tooth or 2, bad wiring, bad ECU,etc.)I would also be prepared to get another cat conv. if the newest one has been run very long under too rich (or too lean) conditions. Don't discount the possibilty of having more than one problem.
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Don't they just stick on with some adhesive? Warm it up with a blow dryer and peel it off. The original is likely under it. You guys that don't want them - well, you only have to say....(get ready).......(hold your breath)......(WAIT FOR IT!)...... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . "We don't need no sticking badges!" hahAhAHHaHaHAHahaHA!
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Blitz, setright and others here have given you good advice. So, I'll just add that there are on-line dealerships that discount OEM parts. You can get a 6 pack of filters and new drain plug crush washers very reasobaly from Jamie at http://www.subarugenuineparts.com .(Chaplins Subaru) Probably find one or two other things while you're there as well. POSSIBLY even take a screen print down to your local dealer and challenge them to match the price. (keeping shipping vs sales tax in mind) fyi
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Yeah, likely unrelated problems. The sweet (toasted marshmallow) smell is coolant. Have someone experienced with soobs thouroughly check out the cooling system - all the way from leaking hoses/heater core, radiator cap, stuck thermostat to weeping/leaking head gasket(a known issue on that year model engine). Do that first while monitoring for additional problems with the wheel noise. possible brake,bearing, CV joint issues there I guess.
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If your soob has the antenna in the glass, there's a good possibilty the film could affect reception. I think it's worse on AM and not much effect on FM - but there's hope (at a price) the Huper Optik films are ceramic and will not affect reception (just your wallet!) Infrared is the enemy, not visible light and not (really) UV. ANY film will block UV effectively.
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I was really wishing for some stiffer springs! And stickier tires (though the Kumhos were a little better than I had expected) And I will definitely have a better idea how much tire pressure to start with. It was a real learning experience on the track and in the classroom. Felt nice at the end of the day having my instructor say the 70mph I exited turn 7 at was only 3-4 mph less than than he takes it in his Viper! (though I'm sure my overall track speed was poor - no heel toe, no race pads/rotors, no track tires, no mad engine mods.,etc.) Checked the torque on my SSR rims a coupla times and they were rock solid. Though they were VERY grey from brake dust! fun stuff
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I'm thinking knock. Could be a bad knock sensor. Do you have a CEL on? if so, have the code read. Try changing to high octane gas. If the problem is immediately better it engine knock for certain and you have a path to follow. You could also try clearing the ECU to force it to re-learn the engine parameters. I dunno
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Yeah, that lady looked outta place in her Saturn Vue! But she enjoyed it and probably learned a lot about her car's handling abilities. It was the only slush box in the class too. I ran all day in 3rd (though, there is probably an opportunity to downshift and use 2nd through the 'rattlesnake' - maybe next time) and did fine. That's how the Z06 ran too - though he definitely had the torque monster on the track. The orange VW really carved his way around! Me, the black STi and the Miata all had 'adventures in farming' running off the track. And once the Miata spun out behind me trying to keep up with me. They can announce yellow or red track conditions on your FM radio. We never had a red and only a couple of yellows. We were delayed once coming outta the classroom to get back on the track because a club member lost a gas cpa on the track. They are very careful. I had to be inspected after going farming to make sure i wasn't leaking any fluids onto the track. There's very little to run into if you lose a corner and run off. fun stuff Carl