1 Lucky Texan

My wife's '03 OBW JUST started doing this. It is now so low on refrigerant it no longer cools or defrosts. Perhaps it is a trend or known issue. I plan to put it in the shop in the next week or 2 for that problem and 1-2 other services. I'll try to rport back to this thread.

It was great to meet you and see the wagon! Glad you brought it out.

Could postal vehicles be a special case though? Seems like having 2 wheels over in the gravel/water/leaf encrusted gutter and swinging the car in/out/around the neighborhood at 20mph is gonna relieve a lot more 'bind' than a 30 minute commute at 70mph on a concrete interstate. I dunno

But doesn't this just change the shape of the tire? The ENTIRE 'perimeter' must still travel around (assuming no 'skipping or something). Kinda like a 'half track' in a way. There wouild still be a difference in axle rotation speed I think. I dunno

last bump

Nah, they got responses for that; "can not duplicate problem" "Probably some bad gas" "You DO want us to rotate your tires and change the cabin air filter, right?" lol!

Nah, it was a SC'd 6, looked kinda like this except H6; http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/images/St-X/st-x03.jpg

HAH! I also went a a tech school (Elkins Institute - now defunct) "Do you like to work with your hands, but don't like to get dirty? Perhaps, you should pursue a career in electronics!" (I liked to quote that when I was sweating like a hunk of rancid pork, standing in the direct Texas sun in August, putting magnetic marks on 30,000 feet of armored logging cable for hours on a Saturday!) good times

I've looked for it once or twice after the fact, but I swear I saw a photo of Subaru showing a supercharged H6 at a car show from a coupla years ago. It had a VERY custom looking intake manifold!

Wonder if it can run pump gas or need av fuel or something? crazy

Yeah, better come with a 12 pack of new trannies - your gonna need 'em!

Yeah but what kinda MILEAGE does it get? (I HATE that question - lol!)

It may be difficult to find 16" wheels that will clear the rotors. They may exist - just something to be aware of.

I suppose, if you bought the car used, someone COULD have put an 'underdrive' pulley on it. But, yeah, many cars I've had will do that at least a little.

I would be interested to know if its OK to upgrade the fronts only or if all 4 corners should be upgraded simultaneously.

In addition to the experienced help you may receive here, you can visit http://www.tirerack.com and investigate 'plus 1' sizing your wheels.

I don't think replacing a clutch at 70K means a car is unreliable. For that matter, at 70K, a car could need a lot of TLC, especially if it was neglected by the former owner. You might also consider having the rear main seal changed during the clutch overhaul.

I forgot if this is a turbo or not. maybe the turbo oil seals are bad? I dunno

It's possible there is something wrong with the brake system or wheel sensors that interfere's with the ABS. I'd take it back and have them examine it. Likely some additional 'bleeding' (air removal) needs to be done to the lines. Any other problem is likely just coincidental. There MAY be a TSB or recall for the late 90s ABS. If you're dealing with a dealership, ask them about it. But I THINK it was to correct a slight delay in engagement - not a failed condition.

A nice compromise could be a Spec B . Hmmmmmmm....?

possible bad hose or cracked plastic in evap recovery system I guess.

lol! I only looked back a few posts but - well it COULD help someone else right? huh? maybe? (just trying to rationalize it....hah!)

If you recently purchased fuel, likely the gas cap needs a few more 'clicks' to be secure. Then, it will take several drive cycles to clear the code, or Autozone/friendly mechanic could clear it, or disconnecting the neg. battery cable for an hour would do it. what model/year/mileage/condition etc. do you drive?

Has anyone driven behind you to see if the brake lights are on? maybe something under the dash is mal-adjusted and the pedal does not return or you are 'riding' the brakes. Are there any kind of tests for residual pressure or proportioning valves or master cylinder weirdnesses? I dunno

Yeah, 2 screws only holding the backing plate on - not uber secure but OK I guess. Then 4 screws holding the license plate to the backing. I suppose someone could also devise some curved or U shaped brackets that would come from behind the bumper and support a plate. But the dealership had already attached a frame to the front. If I do move the plate someday I will get (possibly make) a trim piece to 'fill' and use the holes. like here; http://www.autospeedperformance.com/Subaru/bumpertrim.htm I hate that my state requires this, I HEARD that folks usually just get warnings to put 'em on if running a clean front bumper but I guess I just don't want the risk. I suppose I might try it until I get busted, but not without a trim piece to cover the holes.