1 Lucky Texan

put down the 'tentacle porn' and go fix your car! (I keed, I keed lol!) what they said. Plus, you could exchage the coils for each other I think, move the cables and plug wires and trade them off. Then see if the problem follows the coil. They CAN have cracks/carbon tracks that you might see or hear at night - or misting them may induce failure like dew/condensation could in the morning. I wouldn't rule out front O2 sensor - but coil is more likely IMHO. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Is it possible to have an oil seal leak in the turbo?

wow nipper! somebody better snap you up - your too smart not to be working! good luck (sorry for the OT comment) Carl

you are a genius no - just a widely read nerd with a slight case of Asperger's Syndrome thank you you're welcome! glad you got it fixed!

lighter wheels

I think a simple compression test, inspection of the cam timing and maybe dropping the pan could narrow down the problem a lot without being TOO expensive.

Well, I haven't done a diff. but I've read some of them have magnetized plugs - so, be sure to wipe off any metal particles.

I thought the Tripletreads had some kinda center section with sand/pumice in the rubber specifically for ice? maybe I'm thinking of a different tire. On my WRX I recently swapped wheels and the Kumhos i got are a LOT noisier than the B'stone RE92s that were on there. That can be a characteristic that you only discover in a review of a tire.

You might see how they're rated over at http://www.tirerack.com or maybe they're listed at http://www.subarureview.com .

Could these fans have a ground location in common? maybe its corroded. I dunno

I dunno about opening it - I would make sure it isn't just some 'blowback' from an oil leak up front somewhere. I've read here that most folks just use a 1/2" square drive breaker bar to take out the plug. You will likely need a 'cheater' bar too.

It isn't clear however if he wants to purchase stock take-offs or aftermarket. Plus, ultra light wheels might be OK for the street or strip but not auto or rallyX. I dunno

Possibly it is in 'valet mode'. Re-check your manual or try looking up some of the model specific alarm info at http://www.cars101.com . Of course, someone here may chime in that has the same vehicle as you and experienced the same issue.

cool deal! way to stick with it. Carl

There are aftermarket wheels that fit soobs all the way down to under 9 lbs. IIRC. Stock wheel weights can sometimes be figured out by weighing the tire/wheel set and subtracting the tire's weight as listed by the manufacturer. For instance, my '06 WRX wheel/tires weigh about 43.5lbs according to the freight scale at work. The listed weight (at tirerack.com ) of the stock 215/45/17 RE-92s is 23 lbs leaving a wheel weight of approx. 20.5 lbs. I suspect that could be plus/minus 5% easily. What are you trying to accomplish?

I read that he changed it out - but that would've been my first guess. It IS possible to get a bad new sensors I suppose. Did the OP change the GAUGE sensor or the Engine Temp Sensor? I dunno

Maybe an injector is stuck open? Do you have smoke out the tailpipe or a lot of soot in the tailpipe? Do all 4 plugs look the same? I hope you have a leak - otherwise your cat conv is probably toast!

I'd contact jamie (aka subiegal) who works at http://www.subarugenuineparts.com . she'll know. There are other discount dealers on line as well - or maybe someone over on the Marketplace forum has a used one.

yeah lol! I'm all over the map with my handle/avatar/sigs - but some who know me would say 'all over the map' fits me fairly well! hah! Carl

Ever been wrecked or 'tagged' the curb hard? Definitely start with inspection of steering/suspension parts and alignment. Seems like too new a vehicle to have rack bushings worn out bit that was an issue on one of my daughter's cars once.

ROFL!!! good one! tell her soobs use green year-round so they are always ready to 'spring' into action!

I think, if the orange stuff is like Dexcool (nicknamed DeathCool) it is imperative it not be mixed with even a little glycol (normal, old-fashioned green stuff) due to a serious sludging issue. If it has been installed already and you did not do an EXTREMELY good job of flushing the green - could be a problem. I hope someone with direct experience here will chime in as I am only regurgitating what I've read. Low silicate green stuff should be used for subes but folks have used 'normal' stuff with no reported issues - so YMMV

I think nipper picked up on it. U said the bind does not go away with the fuse in. Either a wiring problem or the solenoid may be bad as indicated by the error code. If it were physically blocked or gummed-up inside the tranny - seems unlikely it could throw a code. If you can test the other one with 12 volts before swapping - I say go for it.

Well, the temp gauge would indicate lower than normal. In very cold weather, the heater may be noticeably less warm. If the thermostat is removed, it may be seen to be open (or at least, not closed all the way). There MAY be ways to look for water movement in the radiator or use an infrared thermometer to take some reading s and compare to a 'normal' vehicle. Most folks just look down one day - see the temp is cooler than normal, throw in a new thermostat - voila! problem solved. On many cars, changing it out is the same easy labor as inspecting it and, since the part is cheap, after you put one in, if the problem remains - you've at least eliminated the primary (as far as I know the ONLY) cause for lower temps in a car. I suppose there is a remote possibilty the gauge began reading incorrectly - so having a mechanic take a look at the problem is not out of the question. But, it could be an easy DIY project.

If it were stuck open it would. You will also suffer worse gas mileage as well as possibly increase carbon buildup in the engine. Even if you have a mechanic change it, it should not be expensive.