1 Lucky Texan

Coupla ideas, folks frequently upgrade those itmes with aftermarket - less on the Legacy models than the Imprezas but still....- you might ask the marketplace forum here and over at www.nasioc.com for some take-offs. One of the nicer mailroder dealers is www.subarugenuineparts.com - ask/email Jamie and confirm they can ship to the great white north. Carl

You didn't mention if the gauge showed an overheating condition - which could point to the overflow bottle being the source of the coolant. Yeah, you need to do some detective work. Off the top od my head, check the radiator cap (especially if its the original!), check that hor air actually come from vents if heater is on, the rad fan function when operating temp is acheived. Collapsed hoses when circulation starts. Bubbles in radiator when circul;ation starts, white vapor in exhaust, one plug with distinctly different appearance then the other 4.... depends on where these things lead you. oh, of course the trouble code from the ECU (I dunno how the initiate that on you car - someone else here will.) good luck

Maybe it's just a bushing on the sway bar or something - see if you can creaet the sound bouncing the corners of the car. carl

some engine specs; http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/techdocs/enginespecs/enginespecs.html

Take a look at the Stromung dual tip muffler (axelback) they have at boxer4racing . I tried to do as much reading/research as humanly possible and have one of those on order. My goal was a sportier sound, not high pitched whiney, not so loud as to get the attention of the squeezers (young folks call them the po-po I believe) or drone tto much on the highway. My WRX wagon has not arrived yet but that is the muffler going on it. There are FAQs over at http://www.nasioc.com by a guy called Unabomber that will help with exhaust questions. That forum also has a lot of modders and tuners and is a good resource - just a little more, um, wild than this forum - not less helpful but has more knuckleheads/trolls. Try searching around over there for some ideas about beefing up your car. here are some other sites you might like; http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/ http://subydude.com/osc/index.php?cPath=143 http://www.subarureview.com/ Carl

I doubt E85 will be more than a blip in the search for 'alternative' fuels. abusive to internal componenets in many vehicles and reduced mileage make it a real oddball. I'd ignore it. Carl

I don't think the 2.2 NA has the oil squirters for the underside of the pistons. Turboing without doing some internals could reduce the lifespan. A swap IS probably the best way to go. Carl

Lighter wheels and (if manual tranny) lighter flywheel(not less tha 13-15 lbs or so) will free up a few ponies. If it's an auto, MAYBE (very controverisal) a few ponies can be freed up with lightened(no under-driven) crank and accesorry pulleys. If your manual calls for premium gas - stay with it, if you switch back and forth, likely the ECU will not re-advance the timing without being reset. As said, personally speking with Dale at http://www.boxer4racing.com will get you a sway bar that will fit. Again, lighter wheels and better tires and maybe dialing in some more front camber will improve handling too. Jamie (http://www.subiegal.com) who works at http://www.subarugenuineparts.com likes the bar from IPD . I dunno if they offer one for your car though. Cusco, Eibach others offer them too. It's unlikely you could get more than 10-15% more hp with bolt ons for your engine. Probably about the same as running with only a third of a tank of gas and removing the passenger seat! Carl

This is a little disappointing to read as I think, from what I've read - no personal experience, soobs ahve a good reputation for swimming through sand - I guess because they are lighter than some other 4-bys. was your car loaded with heavy stuff? I dunno - just ignore me! lol! Carl

Was your clutch slipping? Did the car feel like it was 'pulling' at all? very strange Carl

Could this something as simple as a bad/corroded ground or electrical connection somewhere? I dunno, but I would definietly pursue the IAC issue first. The speedometer is the least useful gauge on the instrument panel! (yeah, I know the vss also feeds the computer.) Carl

If your driving a WRX correctly, the appearance of the rear is more important! Carl

Unless you can locate a friendly mechanic to read them for you, wyou will need a 'scanner'. here is a link to one example; http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/equus/Equuis_OBD_II_code_reader.shtml Carl

hmmm, I dunno now, maybe some kind of fuel starvation? fuel filter clogged or weak pump or bad fuel regulator? If it is in neutral, will it rev to redline? Does it idle smoothly? Does it only happen if its cold? Or if it is rainy or misty? Has anyone tried to get codes from the ECU? Have any sensors or parts been replaced to try to fix it? We need a few more specifics. Carl

wow! um - (caution! wild guesses ahead) I'd check for a slipped timing belt or a clogged catalytic converter. very odd Carl

I have not owned as many or been an owner as long as most folks here. But from reading the fourms, I would likely avoid all 4EAT trannys before whatever (sorry - anyone recall???) year they got the steel sleeve in the tailshaft. Additionally, I'd be cautious about how the 4EAT was treated by the prevoius owner - did they understand their AWD system and not abuse it with mixed size tires,etc. Imprezas with rear wheel bearing probelsm are a minor annoyance. Oil leaks from various places. Some ticking timing belt tensioners. A coupla years of sensitive knock sensors, a recent 1-2 years of cold weather fuel leaks.(TSB or recall on this IIRC) Of course the internal leaking head gasket problem. Not much else comes to mind. Carl

I'd expect it would work well for 'haze'. That's usually the biggest issue with visibilty anyway. Likely a cerium oxide polishing agent. It would be hard to screw anyting up with it. If you wanted to practice first, start on the passenger side low and bnear the post. Or get a winshield from the wrecking yard. Don't tlet the runoff harden or it could be difficult to remove. Also, I'd use filtered or distilled water, maybe with 1-2 drops of detergent as a wetting agent, and a new or recently well washed buff - keep it covered up so as not to get contaminated with a dust particle or dirt. Don't do this on a gravel driveway during windy conditions! Carl

While there can be a little noise for the first few stops while the pads 'wear in' ,if you've never done a brake job before, I can see where it would be easy to throw the shims/plates away accidently. Everything's the same color and those shims are stuck on sometimes with the anti'rattle grease/stuff so it isn't obvious it's a seperate component. I dunno about a metallic screeching - more like squealing. Still, quite likely. Carl

DUH! I feel stupid for not mentioning the whole winter thing! Here in Texas that seems so far away! I was thinking short term but, yeah - depending on where she lives (doesn't everyone live in Texas? lol!) winter is gonna destroy her car before the rust does! But the rust has already begun. "Rust Never Sleeps" Carl

I have had them recommended also - but the coupla times I went there, they didn't have what I needed. I'll keep them in mind though - so many folks seem to like them. Carl

I'd expect this to lead to corrosion problems very quickly. maybe, if she insists, she could at least find some aftermarket corrosion inhibiter to mix in? best to get things fivexd, do a throurough flush, and get the green stuff back in pronto! Carl

Maybe someone remembers the specifics, but I have a vague memory of there being a TSB or recall for knock sensors. I just can't remember the year/model. And I think it was because they were too sensitive. Do the plugs look good? if you had a carbon buildup a seafoam or other treatment may clear som out. Carl

When everything is working (no failed devices) slip is detected and the pulse train sent to the duty solenoid C is altered to help distribute power to the front or rear of the car away from the slippage. If 12 Volts continuous is supplied to the solenoid (by putting in the fuse in the proper slot under the hood) the system becomes front wheel drive. I suppose removing voltage from the solenoid or if it were 'bad' (open) would give you 4WD all the time - UNLESS the wet clutch pack were bad in the tailshaft of the tranny. Assuming your rear diff isn't blown or some odd part of the rear drive line were missing - I'd say the clutch pack is burnt up. Carl

Have you had a mechanic look at it? When did this happen? After some work was done or a wreck or a flat tire? Carl

here's one; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37017&highlight=coolant