1 Lucky Texan

This is a good suggestion print out some of the scarier threads about the issue, then explain that you wouldn't expect to get the entire cost of a repair taken off. I bet they'll go for it. Carl

yeah - if it is a buzzy.tinny sound, quite likely. If it's lower clunky sound, someone needs to inspect for broken anti-sway bars or bar mounts and broken/rotated springs and other suspension parts I guess. Carl

Assuming the new tire wasn't shaved down, it's better chance an auto tranny cold have worn center diff clutch parts than a manual would have any issues. Also, there is a specific MY where they switched to a steel liner in the tailshaft. The older tranny may be close to needing a rebuild even without the tire issues. maybe someone will reply that remembers when the AT got the steel liner. Carl

My entire driving life I've always adjusted the external mirrors to pick up the image where the inside rearview stops. That plus being a swivel-head has served me well. If it's bugging you I say better to remove it. Carl

I've had 2 different vehicles pop the CEL with altitude change. can't really tell you not to keep an eye on it - but if the car's running OK, mileage isn't affected, feels safe, etc. I'd be tempted to either clear the code or at least wait several 'drive cycles' and see if it goes off. Carl

Clutch? I thought this was an auto? Carl

Well, even though your symptoms are a little odd, putting the FWD fuse and having the problem quit pretty much nails down the center diff clutch pack area as the problem. I also think '95 falls into the MY range that gets a steel sleeve to fix some aluminum wear issues. probably couldn't hurt to try a tranny flush and conditioner additive since the alternative is expensive and at least 1-2 people have had luck with it. Carl

I vote engine temp sensor or O2 sensor. Also, have you cleared the ECU since any major changes or sensor replacements? I doubt the 'learned' map could be that far off fromt the default map - but it is something that should be done after working on the car's mechanicals. Carl

I feel its too weird and expensive to not get a second opinion. It just feels fishy to me. I mean BOTH calipers? Um - what were the symptoms? Or was this just during some inspection? Carl

What about road surface? Is it more likely to happen over certain types of rough pavement or after a dip or chuck hole? You might try pulling, pushing and wiggling cable harnesses while it's idling to see if you can create a cut-out condition. Do you have much corrosion on the battery cables? Sometimes they can wick acid inside and coorode quite a bit internally. Are there any stored codes in the ECU? Autozone or a friendly mech will read it for free. Carl

Does this car have a MAF? Ever run a K&N type oiled filter? They can sometimes destroy MAF sensors. I dunno but Legacy777 could definitely put you on the right track I bet. Carl

I'd expect a vehicle this old may have more than one problem - but, if its equipped with an Engine Temp Sensor (seperate from the coolant temp sensor) it may be bad, basically keeping the car in choke condition. Though I'd expect it would not go away as you indicate. O2 sensors, IAC, maybe some other system could possibly be involved. maybe somone else will chime in soon - I'm guessing too much! Carl

Any AWD vehicle could probably experience 'torque bind'. With the automatic soobs, there will be a fuse slot in the box under the hood for a spare (15A IIRC) fuse in the FWD position. If the shuddering goes away, you have 2-3 course of action. There have been limited reports of people doing tranny flushes and maybe using an additive and, at least temporarily, regaining normal function. Othertimes a bad solenoid is the cause, sometimes a tranny rebuild is required. make sure you tires are all the same brand and within 1/4" in circumference of each other. Odd mix of tires stresses the AWD because it is detected as constant slippage. Do a search for 'torque bind' here. It MAY be possible, that, if you have a bad tranny and a bad enough engine, that swapping in rebuilt units would be enough labor savings to proceed that way. Sounds like you MAY have 2-3 expesive repairs upcoming. Carl

The only tidbit I have for you, is that, at one time, some of the MAFs had a replaceable sensor - saved buying an entire MAF unit. maybe jamie at www.subarugenuineparts.com could advise you. Carl

Very odd. I'm tempted to just tell you to find a different mechanic. Smoke out the tail pipe is not good. bad for the catalytic converter and am indication of a problem. What color is the smoke? was ANYTHING different done to the car recently? Any fluids change level/color/smell recently? Guesses are just guesses but maybe a slipped timing belt? Stuck valve? Perhaps something as simple as a PCV valve clogged up? I dunno Carl

I wouldn't be AFRAID of a heavier rear bar. Just understand, like gary said, it's a system. If you believe spd, a very heavy rear bar will reduce body roll but is a little more 'twitchy' at extreme manuevers than a system balanced with springs,struts and bars together. Still, a whitleine adjustable rear anti-sway bar gives you the option to 'play' with different settings and select one that works for you. Other folks make them too. They have 2 or more usually 3 holes on the end that connects to the end link which varies the leverage the car can put on the bar. In effect, its like swapping to heavier ,medium and lighter bars. For instance, if you car came with a factory bar that is -say- 17mm, you could get a 19-21-23 adjustable bar to play with. I wouldn't get a front bar. Like gary said, you will want to shift the cars dynamic behavior from understeer toward neutral. Just be careful. Carl

This is a very good question and one I will face after my WRX comes in. I try to read up past threads at http://www.nasioc.com but the signal to noise ratio is high, it's worse if you ask a question - though I do feel there are individuals there with great experience and insight - -perhaps some privte messages is the best way to go over there. I also like a lot of what I read at http://www.spdusa.com/ though some is 'uncomfortable' in that its discouraging me from some of the easy/cheap mods. Much of course dpends on what you want to do with the car. At present, I may put springs and lighter wheels on and just a slightly beefier rear bar. maybe increase (slant the top in? whatever) camber on the fron wheels a little. I just want a fun daily driver. Probably get a Stromung dual tip axle back too! Oh, and tint - this is Texas! Carl

About the only time I over ride what the auto tranny is doing, is the few times I might be in a line of kinda slow traffic going up a slight grade in hot weather. I might drop it down a gear and let the engine rev a little to keep it from 'lugging'. depends on your tranny, but some will not downshift when it 'seems' they should - so, do it yourself. Again, 99% of the time, the auto is doing what I'd be doing. Carl

good question! Carl

Yeah, it'd be tough to get quite that high a limit. But getting it like 8K or whatever would get the $500 is doable. And I don't really care that it wouldn't apply to this car's price. Just kinda hate to get another card just for this purpose. Still, might buy a short shifter or something! hmmmmmm..... Carl

Um, what's BG? is that the conditioner? what is it? Carl

So, IF (and it's doubtfull they'd let me charge more than 1/4 the full amount) I charged - say - 24K to the card, I'd get either a $500 max or, at the most $720 which, must be used in such a way as to round up in $100 increments. is that right? Also, can they beused at the parts counter for performance parts/accessories or service only? thanx guys Carl

OK, tell me what's wrong with this idea cause I am ignorant of the Subaru Bucks/whatever they call it. Suppose, I get their credit card and use as much as the dealership will allow to pay for my WRX wagon I ordered! See where I'm going with this. Instead of writing them a check for the car as I had planned, I would charge as much as possible, pay off the card, and get those bucks. 1. Do they still have this deal and what is it's actual name? 2. Is there a link to online info about it? 3. Anybody know if there is a transaction or yearly or other limit as to how many bucks I could earn doing this? 4. what other problems make this a stupid idea? tia Carl

That's always a good suggestion. Some parts retailers will do that at no charge (Autozone). But, IIRC, the engine temp sensor doesn't set a specific code if it's bad, how would the ecu otherwise know if the sensor were wrong? - though I guess some type of cylinder misfire could be set because it isn't working. Anybody know for certain? Carl

I hope others will have some advice for you. Any chance you could get a mech to inspect it? Anyway - I suppsoe the engine temp sensor (not the coolant temp sensor for the gauge) COULD be bad, telling the ECU the car is always 'warmed up' - so no 'choke' effect when cold. Carl