1 Lucky Texan

I can't speak to its quality, but I might have tried it when I replaced things on my FP; https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-902-438-Housing-Repair-Select/dp/B07KG7K8GB/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

hope the new thermostat is OEM style.

maybe look thru the manual for more eyesight and lane assist info/warnings?

I could see that being a fun project. seen this?

It reads like you know it needs a new radiator at least. In a new thread, ask for a shop recommendation. If you're lucky, someone may know of a subaru-friendly mechanic near Arlee.

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forum/4-old-gen-80s-gldlxtloyales/

I use Valvoline MaxLife but, agree any name-brand compatible should be fine.

when they leak, oil pressure switches can leak a lot due ti being under pressure. It can pool and shift around under acceleration/maneuvering and drip almost anywhere.

yeah, see if a mist of water on the wires or the coil cause stumbling/missing. Some folks do it at night and can see arcing.

not sure about older cars, I got a Mitsuboshi for my WRX. That or OEM (possibly made by M'oshi ?) would be my choice. maybe on an older secondary vehicle, I'd risk something else (Gates ?) but, only if I was desperate.

there was the so-called 'chicken tax' that affected the Brat (putting the seats in the back to make it a 'sedan')and other small Japanese vehicles long ago. I have no idea if transmission configurations were involved. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicken_tax

second click must be within a few seconds.

Until you get a solid diagnosis, make sure the inside of the radiator is checked and the level of coolant maintained properly (full). DO NOT trust the level in the overflow to reflect coolant level. I second likely CV boot as said above.

yeah, as you already mentioned, you'd likely have to make a custom platform or use some kind of net separation or similar to keep things stowed away from each other/contained.

maybe go exterior? there are 3-4 designs that are hitch-mounted. Some fold away or twist/rotate under the car. Some ramps, some steps.

xxS2 , if a code looked like that , the S2 part would be after the cat and, on most cars before about '05 or so, ONLY use that sensor for cat conv monitoring. Isn't even used for A:F parameter. Only for conv 'light-off'/function. it's the conv. nanny sensor. S1 is before the conv. some cars can have 2 converters in-line, I dunno how those are designated.

Well, suppose you had a 1 year-old child now, assuming the tree was alive or, very recently dead, if you didn't mark or rememebr the year it was cut down, you would 'off' a few years when the the child needed a science fair project in 3rd grade or w'ever. So, if you cut a tree down tomorrow, just put a piece of masking tape on it with 'cut in 2020' or similar on it. Or, you already have one sitting around and you KNOW you cut in down 3 years ago, mark it 2017 before you forget. then, when the child starts counting rings backwards , they would be 'in sync'. Might even be able to correlate wide or narrow rings with documented local flooding or drought records as a double check. If your oak were dead, and you did not know for certain when it died, local records for drought years could help align the tree rings with calendar years.

used to load test programs from an ASR 33 tape reader into an Raytheon RDS-500. First models had mag toroidal memory. Occasionally fixed them by changing sense amplifiers. I remember bulletin board services. First video I watched from the net took 20 minutes to load, was displayed about the size of a half-dollar. It was 'crab vs pipe' (still around-try youtube) "The only thing more terrifying than a technician with a slide rule, is an engineer with a soldering iron."

auto trans? does a 2006 Outback Sport have a remote filter in the fender? if so, could be filter lines.

cut a slim round or 2, mark the year of removal on them. Kids can use them for a 'dendrochronology' science fair experiment in school, count back to the Gulf War, their own birthday, or the first rover on Mars, etc.

wow, I dunno if I'd have half the self confidence to attempt that. hat off to you Sir!

bad crimp or maybe crack on the upper rad tank? anyway - good post above

since there seems to be a difference idle vs cruise rpms and cold vs warm, kinda thinking live data would help a lot. check sengine temp readings and fuel trims at idle vs higher rpms, etc. NGK plugs with proper gap? plug wires in good shape? try spraying them and the coil with water from a spray bottle. no oil on plug boots?

looks nice here's mine;

if it was limited to just 2-3 traces and the components seem OK, might be worth trying some 22ga or w'ever wires patched in. It could work - at first. However, one has to wonder, with that severe a surge, what's the remaining lifespan of some of the components that have been 'stressed'.