1 Lucky Texan

1. Don't buy a vehicle that recommends any grade you don't want to pay for. 2. Use regular grade, the knck sensor will make adjustments and your car will still work. 3. gasoline is still cheap in before tax, inflation adjusted price. 4. you would still buy it if it were $7 a gallon and you know it. Carl

Perhaps there is a ground connection somewhere that is corroded or intermittent? I dunno Carl

try googling xylene or toluene as gas boosters. here's one discussion; http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=776542&page=2

If not, you may need to buy 'towers' (I think they're called) to marry your bars to the Soob rails. Carl

WEll, the building on I20 in Arlington is open - my dealer WAS Arlington Auto Mall - so, since I'm gonna likely buy another Soob PLUS I'd like to have a nearby dealership for my wife's OBW - I've been in the Arl. teape a coupla times. Evidently, there will be at least 2 Teape Subaru dealerships in Tarrant county when the Hurst location opens. Unless the Arl. location is temporary! Dang, I just thought of that! Carl

Try calling them and asking for Ryan. make an appointment with him and give them one more chance. There are definitely 2 'cultures' going on there. You hooked up with the wrong one. Ryan is more like one of us (check out his STi tatoo!) Carl

Yeah. Here's a link to that VW ad with the bomber; http://ad-rag.com/117074.php Carl

Too bad it was so expensive but at least you're back on the road. thanx for keeping us informed. Carl

They show a guy and his dog 'survive' to drop to their butts onto the road. I never felt it threatened a person's life. I DID once see a European commercial for a car (Ford IIRC?) trying to tout its tough construction by showing a stereotypical middle-eastern-looking man drive up, fumble with a satchel and some wires, explode, the aftermath of which shows the car in one piece and unscathed - the blast completely contained inside. Subaru's commercial is very tame compared to that! Carl

If its less likely to happen when stone cold - maybe cat. I think there are tests for it using the O2 sensor bung holes. Also, possible fuel pressure regulator I think. You could try the 'tree trunk test'. Pu tthe front bumper against a tree trunk, shift to 5th, dump the clutch (at idle). Engine should stall immediately. If no, bad clutch. Carl

So, how's the vehicle behaving now? Everything OK? Carl

sorry , left out the word valve - Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, unlikely to be the problem as it should have been replaced/serviced, just something to check. You might also check the tranny fluid. maybe someone else will have some ideas. Carl

Double check your service records and make sure the PCV has been replaced(cleaned). If not, have it replaced - cheap. Other than that I dunno. Start looking for one plug that is different from the others - might point to which set of rings or valves guides are bad. Compression tes may be warranted. You don't mention the oil consumption rate. How bad is it? Carl

The local salesman I've been speaking with about an upcoming Impreza purchase says they Tribeca is selling really well. I actually like the front slightly more than the rear quarter area - where it bulges out to go to the light - nasty. Carl

I think that's a very good suggestion - and not the first time I've seen it - but, I guess I just can't convice myself that, even with the discounts, I'm gonna like going to a Saab dealership for warranty issues, service etc. And even though I KNOW its a subaru, it won't say it on the outside (barring rebadging it or something). I dunno - it's aconsideration. Plus, I might wait at least till i see the specs on the '06s. I'm hoping the incentives come back after these current ones expire. thanx Carl

I wonder, without asking for anyone's personal information, how hard I can push the pricing for a new WRX wagon? In general, do folks regularly get into the 4% (IIRC) dealer holdback? Or is invoice gonna be about the best I can do? Just looking for a guideline. tia Carl

Well, it seems reasonable the smell you had was either the oil in the center diff or some oil (do they have oil? or gas?) form the strut getting on the exhaust. More likely the center diff if you always smelled it when it began having problems. And, as I understand it, the VC center differential works (engages) when slippage at one wheel cause the oil to heat up, its viscosity changes and 'locks' the front to the rear transfering power. That's one reason tire circumference is important, if they are different, the system interprets the different rotaion rates as slippage and you get the center diff to activate. At a distance like we are here, I suppose what they are telling you is quite likely - I just would like to feel confident they have done a good job of diagnosis. It would be a shame if they replace the CD and some tread separation on a tire cooks the new one! I'd be tempted to have another shop replace BOTH rear struts(cartridges/whatever) just so they would match. As Setright said - KYB would be good. maybe get both rear done by an indie mech. for not much more than one by Subaru. That should also be a job easy to quote by phone so use that to help with you decision. Hope you get this in time. Thanx for posting back. carl

From 'another forum' it appears the Subaru hitch has more clearance than much less expensive after market hitches. And, there are longer hangers availabble to help with clearance issues. So I guess I just need to go ahead and get the Soob hitch and then shop for a muffler with a low exit tip or oval or dual tips located as low as possible. Seems like folks have almost always found a way to make it work. Carl

Is there a thread or any personal experience with non-interfering combos of trailer hitches and sport mufflers? I may want this on a WRX wagon to be purchased soon and evidently Subaru says their muffler and hitch interfere. tia Carl

Yeah, I thought toluene or xylene was the hook-up. Seems acetone is something different. I dunno Carl

I remember seeing Kevin post occasionally. Naturally I'd like to have a dealer closer - but Teape is a startup, at least we have a replacement for the Automall. Carl

At last I have funds for a new car for myself. I'm attracted to the WRX wagon though I may test drive 3-4 different soobs. The confused thoughts I need to work around are; '05 or '06 and stick or auto. If there is a 'sport shift' option on the auto I think I'd be happy with that. I mostly just need a daily driver (though I 'dream' of rallyx or performance driving school, probably just not gonna happen) that's fun. My 2 most favorite cars I ever owned were both small and light. '69 Datsun 2000 (srl 311) and a '81 Civic wagon. Both stick. I'm not a great stick driver. Not horrible, just not 'pro'. The driving I do now is almost all surface streets.(I have '96 Dodge Avenger) I'd like to have a 1 1/4" hitch put on (which ones interfere with performance mufflers? diff armor?) for a bike rack - but the capability of a rare tow of a small trailer would be nice. And an auto means it's easier for my wife to use the car on occasion or loan to a kid in an emergency. Just wondering if Subaru has a sport shift auto (in the Baja?) and what it's like. Any more news on features/performance of the '06 WRXes? Carl

I'd still be interested in measuring the actual circumference of the tires. Even though they are all the same style/wear - tread separation may lead to a difference in size I guess. thanx for the updates btw. Carl

There are others here that have more experience with stuff like that but I think Soob shocks (or cartridges/whatever) are made by a well respected company - I wanna say Koni but don't hold me to that. I think high quality after market installed by a competent mech would be fine - just don't know if it's worth the inconvenience to you or not. So far, 2 mechs have not been able to diagnose the torque bind/whatever problem you still have. I might be tempted to avoid any very Subaru -specific work given to those guys, but installing cartriges/struts should be about the same as other cars I guess. thanx for getting back to us with results. Carl EDIT! - I just had a weird thought, is it possible you drive off road or on gravel a lot? If so, could a blown shock cause enough slippage of its associated tire to overwork the center differential? In other words, are the 2 symptoms you have related? I hope someone else is monitoring this thread - I'm getting outta my league now!

Less likely culprits would be the strut, the inner joint (tripod or double offset) or a wheel bearing(?) The grease smell is what points to the center diff, CV joint or strut. I don't see how the shuuder going STRAIGHT over small bumps could be a CV joint. I dunno - perhaps you have 2 problems. It may be worthwhile to actually measure the circumference of your tires (after confirming proper inflation pressure) Subaru claims they need to be within 1/4" of each other. The ctr diff on the manual cars may be a little less picky about this number than the auto trannies. let us know - might help me or someone else in the future! Carl