1 Lucky Texan

I think my '03 H6 is about the same.

I can't attest to its accuracy, but I did find this once before, maybe helpful. http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/wheels.html also, check http://www.tirerack.com

How do keep 'em from putting that stuff in my H6 ?

It's quite possible your project is so unique that there won't be a huge anount of direct information available, having said that I believe you would be well served to get the message out on as many forums as possible. The other message boards I'd suggest are, http://www.nasioc.com and http://www.i-club.com both of which have some 'conversion' type info (most helpful for you probably) as well as 'tuner' type enthusuaists. good luck

Also, I'm just throwing another long shot here, maybe an alternator problem. Some type of internal, heat related short. The 10 minute wait thing is kinda weird. Was there a recall on soob alts.? Does her '98 fall into that recall? maybe Autozone or some indie. mechanic could pull the CEL code. Might not be the same code each time. Also, I like snotty's relay idea, a device possibly affected by BOTH braking and heat - 10 minute wait for reset-type idea. good luck and post back OK?

I think there may be enough trend here to report this to NHTSA, at least they will collate the info and perhaps contact Subaru. Seems like it could be interpreted as a safety related failure, in the sense that a chunk of steel rod could become a hazard flopping around under the car.

You should consider a set of lightened pulleys and, if MT, a lightened flywheel too.

Man what a puzzler! Seems like braking is one common element, perhaps either an electrical intermittent caused by the engine/drivetrain shifting forward during braking - maby a loose ground. Pulling and pushing on some wiring harnesses while the engine is idling mighjt divulge something. Or perhaps an issue with a vacuum leak, a major one in the brake booster - though I doubt it would kill the engine - anyone? sorry that's all I got.

If the knock can be confirmed to be piston slap - then it's probably OK. Does it go away/reduce when engine warms up? Possible (though not usually reported on this engine? anyone?) bad TB tensioner allowing TB to flop around, a 'rubbed' spot inside the TB cover would confirm that if you can't feel it when the engine is running. If it's 'pre-igniton detonation/knock' see if it diminishes with high octane gas - could be an ECU or knock sensore issue. just some ideas - let us know.

Well, at least it doesn't look like the offspring of a liason between a BMW and a Pontiac Aztek - It looks like the AFTERBIRTH!

I hope they gurantee those used ones to run true. Thanx for posting back!

In theory, the valve springs should want to close the valves, moving them away from each other. But I guess in the real world ,some combination of the belt stretching, skipping, breaking, shearing off teeth, PLUS inertia could cause valve clash. I recall Emily at CCRengines saying they have seen engines with piston/valve clash. I don't recall if she said which engines do this.

Never really thought about it before but is there a recommended fluid change interval for PS fluid? Seems like it could - over a long period - collect water and other contaminates. Sitting around for sometime could allow water to settle into the rack instead of being suspended I guess?

Found another link that may help; http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/wheels.html Hey - um, let usknow what you get OK? I'd like to see what you choose.

Though I'd expect it to squeal, perhaps the drive belt is slipping ?

Others here will have good info for you but I just happened to have read some about this. The best thing to look for is an offset above about 45-48 and 'Subaru hubcentric'. Some wheels will have a hub opening too big and an adapter ring may be available to make the wheel fit tightly. Rota makes some wheels which are popular for Subarus, high end is SSR and Volk I guess. 5/100mm is the pattern. You might check http://www.subydude.com and http://www.tirerack.com Sometimes, when other soob drivers upgrade their wheels you can find 'takeoffs' pretty cheap - try our own Marketplace forum here. good luck

At least you located it. Did some retainers break? just curious.

WOW! sounds like a candidate for a Click and Clack the Tappett Brothers semi-automotive puzzler! You should SO send it in to them! http://cartalk.cars.com/Radio/Puzzler/

If you have proper mix of coolant, it would be greenish and liquid (possibly slushy if close to it's freezing point. How far away is this point from A/C drain line? (I know, really far-sigh) fun mystery

How difficult to check the strut top mount? A stretch I know but maybe the strut is loose up there?

I am slowly shopping for an OBS for myself (the wife's car is an OBW H6). I have read a lot and asked a lot of questions. The main conlusions seem to be; there is d@mn little you cna do, short of an engine swap, to increase power. Ligthened pulleys and, if manual tranny, lightened flywheel will 'free up' some HP. Cold air intakes may give a little power but could also damage the MAF sensor. Exhaust work may give CELs and can actually hurt low end torque (though a couple xtra ponies may show up in the top end). All total, probably hard to get an xtra 10-15%% more power from intake and exhaust mods - with likely CEL problems. And accelration gains are approx. the square root of power gains. 16% more power=4% more accel. There is some goodnews for handling, start with wheels/tires and a rear anti-sway bay. Adjustable or 18mm/20mm. There is mixed info. about struts. best safest but moderately diffcult/expensive would be to put Koni yellows in the stock struts. KYB AGX adjustables for the front are probably the same as other Imprezas - but not shown in KYB catalog for the rear. Some folks have put AGXs on the OBS rear and seem happy. Other sites are vague about it. GR2s may be a good way to go. There are a lot of choices for springs, I'd lean toward whiteline,eibach or H&R I think. Whiteline might be a good source for the sway bar too. I'd concentrate on the suspension and tires first and foremost. For more info try http://www.subaruoutback.org , http://www.obsportal.com , http://www.nasioc.com , http://www.spdusa.com , http://www.i-club.com and searching this forum. I'm envious. have fun with your new car!

I wouldn't use aftermarket belt - OEM only.

It MAY depend on your personal tolerance for risk combined with your personal mechanical skills. Also, I think if the belt breaks on an '01 Forester, you're gonna have bent valves. If, say , you will pay a mech. to do do the work on a daughter's car that will drive 200 miles every other weekend to and from college - I say you spring to replace everything that touches the belt. If you are adept at doing the work yourself on you personal daily driver that is never more than 20 minutes from your home - just change the belt - IF a tensioner bearing seizes and melts through the belt (this happened to me on a Toyota, 3K after the first scheduled belt change and 200 miles from home with my daughter in the car) you can get it home and fix it yourself. Because of an 'anecdotal' experience I had, I will always change evrything(within reason) in there.

OK, is it like say an Innova scanner? Is select a brand name? Is it more sophisticated than a scanner?

Not trying to thread-jack but - what is a select monitor?