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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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I have a sense that you feel the risk is minimal. I'd suggest perhaps acquiring a set of headgaskets to take a long with you, making note of a few good dealerships mechs (or forum members!) along the route. Just be a little more 'prepared' than normal for an unscheduled delay. It would seem your greatest enemy is going to be letting the engine cool off, more frequent gas refills will keep the engine warm and allow for more coolant level inspections too. all guess work on my part but it's all I got!
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I dream of buying for myself (The OBW is actually my wife's car) an Impreza wagon. I don't have a lot of money so under 9-10K is probably the limit. I have aline on an '00 OBS MT with about 55k miles on it in my price range. The problem seems to be, lack of/poor info on what mods I would be able to do to it. I know it would never be a 1/4 miler and really, I'm resigned to not caring a lot about that. BUT (yes it's a big but) it appears that KYB AGX adjustable struts MAY not be availble for that vehicle. Yes I know I should start with sway bars and I intend too. I don't really want it slammed either - maybe less than an inch in the springs and I will probably get 16inch wheels with some 40-45 profile tires/whatever to get another 1/2-1inch lowering(don't care about the speedo). My real question is, if I want to get 15-20-25% stiffer springs on adjustable damping struts for an Impreza wagon - is there a different model I should buy than an OBS? Is there a different brand of strut? The info is quite confusing and the OBS is almost the 'bastard child' it seems as far as mods go. I want a barrel of monkeys fun to drive daily driver (with a dream of trying rally/autox at least a coupla times) that hugs the road. I'd like it to be a wagon but if the struts aren't upgradable maybe I can be talked into a different model. The 2.2l is fine for me - don't really need headgasket problems on top of saving my $ for occasional mods. any advice appreciated! SORRY -SORRY - edited to reflect MY 2000 not '02 sorry
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We may soon have a collective noun for Subarus. Perhaps it could be included in the design somehow? Check the poll on the OT forum.
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Well, this whole deal with speaker polarity is interesting now that it has been brought up. My home theater surround system is a hodge podge of 4 different speaker brands. After I hooked everything up I thought it was OK until I used a 'test sequence' on a DVD of Titan A.E. ( (IIRC). I discovered my Cerwin Vega center channel speaker was marked 'reverse' from all the other speakers. I just switched the wires. I was once told by a guy that worked for a speaker manufacturer that, if you connect a 9V battery to a speaker, +to+ and -to- the cone should move forward. Can anyone confirm this? Might be a good test.
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Just a thought, see if you can get a new resonator on warranty BUT get the part only -make whatever excuse you need too (you want to do it for the education,you think they're compromising it during installation, whatever) then SELL it and either put the money towards just a pipe (probably louder) or find an aftermarket one (maybe a little louder). good luck
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Need your vote!
1 Lucky Texan replied to 1 Lucky Texan's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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....to help narrow the field for a collective noun for Soobs (like parliament of owls, pod of whales, pride of lions). check; http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9152 thanx
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please help narrow down the search for a collective noun for Subarus (like pride of lions, murder of crows, pod of whales,etc.) check; http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9152
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Maybe....remove rad cap on cold engine, start engine, use kitchen/meat/BBQ thermometer to measure coolant temp. When the fan comes on is probably max temp (or close) for the rad. That will probably be lower than the thermostat value (if the thermostat is a 195 deg.F t'stat - maybe the water would be a little less cause the t'stat is on the bottom and the water will have been cooled by the rad befroe returning to the engine.) You could compare your numbers to those from another sube. Also, there are handheld infrared, remote reading thermometers available. I'd expect parts of the engine to be several degrees above the t'stat value. And of course the exhaust headers would be quite warm. Never done this myself. Plese post back your results. Low engine temp in most modern cars will lead to poor fuel economy.
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We may never know for sure, but I'd guess you had air in the system. I think, if the overflow bottle is ever empty, subes can suck an air bubble in to the radiator, and maybe because of the flow direction, it can be sent through the upper hose into the engine.(IIRC subes flow out the top hose to the engine?) Once there, maybe it insulkates an area longe enough to become superheated causing further expulsion through the cap/o'flow. Since you waithe for it to cool before looking, we don't know if the o'flow tank had any coolant in it. If it did have some, it would've been sucked in after the cooling - um - probably. btw- a meat thermometer and a pan of hot water will tell you if a thermostat is working. Just turn up the stove and see if it opens at/near the correct temp.
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I'm with applegump, I've always felt that twice a year was the least frequent I'd ever go bewtween changes. Especially here where we have extremely hot summers. However, if this is going to be your regular pattern for a long time, you might consider changing to full synthetic and the best filter you can find (silicome anti-drain valve). I suppose 'extended drain interval' can be interpreted to mean time as well as mileage. You might post/search over at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com You might consider adding a gas dryer occasionally and trying to keep the tank over 1/2 full to reduce water condensation possibilities.