1 Lucky Texan

I'm sure others will reply with more specific info. I have read that the H4 filter is 'dished' in such a way that some filters do not engage enough threads. The H6's filter 'seems' to be a little more standard. If you get the Purolator part numbers for them and do a 'reverse lookup' at the Purolator site, many cars use the H6's filter (a LOT of Honda's - so any larger filters known to fit them may fit the H6, increasing its capacity too!) but the H4's part# seems limited mostly to soobs. It's been awhile since I looked all this up. Hope I got it right. Still, it may just be a matter of finding/making a longer 'stud' to replace the one in the H4. And of course it must clear any obstructions near the mount area.

Pardon me for butting in here but I happened to notice; http://home.att.net/~teaguesauto/parts1.htm has some brat T-tops and a little other used stuff for sale. fyi

Some of your post confuses me, but it sounds like you have a relay or maybe a wiring problem. If wiggling some cables around doesn't make the lights flicker then I'd definitely try the relay.

Well, the WP would be anyone's first guess but it is hard to believe if it was replaced recently. You'll have to go in there to confirm I guess but, could this be a head gasket external leak out the 'front' ?

alias is THE MAN! best post ever - a pleasure to read. thanx

In the old days we used Berrymans B-12 but it involved pouring it into the carb while jooking the throttle up to keep it from choking, then puposely stalling it bu dumping the las 1/3 of the can in fast. Let it sit for 1/2 hour or so before starting. Seemed to help about 1/2 the times I used it. Other times I think I was 'hoping' for a 'mechanic in a can' fix. I think brake fluid and even water have been used to some success. Sound like a spray can would work well, especially if some 'high tech' new stuff has been developed. thanx for the reports too.

On 2-3 occasions when I built something for myself (LED xmas lights, pirate TV antennas,etc.) I would always build 2-3-4 of them and test then sell the xtras - that way mine was usually free!

IIRC 1mm is about 40 thousandths. I think your plugs may be OK. Do turbos need a smaller gap? If you are experiencing missing maybe the problem is elsewhere?

Thanx! Even though the OBS (as confirmed by your post - thanx) has more 'off-roady suspension' would it use the same rear antisway bar as the other Imprezas from that MY series? How about a rear strut tower brace? Sounds like the wheelbase is the same so I guess exhaust is the same as other Imprezas? thanx again

MAN! how frustrating. ok - just throwing out a couple guesses. How did the plugs look? any sign of carbon ? I'm wondering if you could have carbon built up or even some burnt /leaky valves? Was compression OK? Maybe having a shop trhow a scope on the high voltage? just to see if it is low? good luck buddy

OK - I'm a noob and maybe a little lazy, so, let me display my ignorance by asking some dumb questions; OBS - is this Impreza Outback Sport wagon? is there such an animal as Outback Sedan? What is an Impreza L wagon? in what way would it differ from the the Imp. Outback wagon? What is a TS Sport wagon? In general, I am slowly shopping for an Impreza sized wagon, probably MYs '98-'01, so what are they? what are they called?, how do they differ? I've read that RS (Impreza 2 door coupe?) mods will fit the Imp. Outback wagon. Does that mean the exhaust is the same length/shape? I know the wagon has drum brakes in the rear, are the front brakes the same as the RS? Was there a four door Imp. sedan in those MYs and does it share any frequently modded components with the wagon? I've read the rear suspension is taller than the coupes but what about anti-sway bars? Are they the same? tia

SUPERB post alias! This should be put some place permanent by a mod. thanx

In the 'old days' there was a couple vehicles/times I had to hold the release out and use that pedal as THE brake pedal. Damn Ford galaxy master cylinder! How about those ratcheting ones you twist to release? had to hold one of those twisted to apply brakes once as well. OH - one weird thing me and my dad did once, driving up to Page from Phoenix the accel. cable in the International travelall broke at the pedal. I laid in the floor board with a pair of pliers on the cable nub waitong for my dad to yell instructions like STOP! or GO-GO-GO NOW G@dda@mmit! He was a little pissed. At least he didn't use my head for a pedal!

sohc 2.2L MAY (do a search, there's still some controversy) be about the only engine that isn't interferential. Usually the engines that do exhibit interference are DOHC and it is valves that hit. But Emily says valves and pistons can collide on some soob engines - lots of conflicting opinions. I wish we had a list from FHI that we could 'sticky' because this comes up often.

I know you'll get it running, I'm just brainstorming here. I guess the voltage actually powering the ECU stays good during cranking - the SIGNAL out to the ign. is what drops? If so I misunderstood the other post. good luck - I bet you're close.

Where's the current drop during cranking? You may have a cable about to break or some under sized wiring. The fuel pump is probably off during cranking because the voltage drops too much. maybe the starter or battery is bad? Sneak path to ground?

HEY! If they ARE worried about a lawsuit, get a buddy to buy, say - the engine and tranny, then YOU buy the rest! They get to show 2 bills of sale, you're gonna probably go throught the engine anyway, then just pay you buddy for his stuff, fix it up, reassemble, title and "You'll have a Ride you can drive with Pride!"

Is there a fuel cut-off like when you have a wreck that could be an issue here? I mean, what tells the ECU you had a wreck so it can cut-off the fuel? maybe the airbag system or something? just a guess

Depending on how you're checking for spark, you could have coolant (or vaporized exhaust valve metal) on your plugs, or a bad crank angle sensor, or melted plugs/plug wires or broken TB or ? Start with what we know happens with severely overheated engines. follow alias's advice and confirm good compression first You quite likely could have holes in pistons, melted valves, scored cylinders, broken rings, warped heads, blown gaskets, and need an oil change. Spark is a secondary concern.

So make an offer on the engine, tranny, front clip,doors,and seats and see if they'll throw the rest in for free. Trust me there is a way they could sell it to you. maybe a new title, maybe they've never done it before and they're ignorant of how to do it, but there MUST be a way. Even without a title, they could sell it to you with a bill of sale maybe and you could title it if you get it running. Do some research.

I think alias did a more fair analysis. I think a couple differences I always point out to people is the general advantage ATs have in most towing situations. Probably less an advantage with small cars that are not used for towing much. Also, a MT can usually be push/roll started. Not with an AT. I admit I am not a very good MT driver. Folks riding with me get whipped pretty bad. I am not uncomfortable driving MTs and find them a little more 'fun' actually. But as a daily driver I would never get 200k or even 100k from a clutch. I am shopping for an OBS and if I wind up with a MT I may try to find a driving school to get my skills up for RallyX or AutoX. Woulkd there be significant differences between AT and MT in RallyX for a non-tirbo vehicle? Which tranny should I shop for?

Try cycling the key from off to the full on (not start though) position 10 times, in fairly rapid succession. This is a bypass for not having a remote on some security systems. YMMV

covert military operation - he IS a Colonel right?

I read once that , a long time ago, Citroen (IIRC) had a news conference and invited all the papers and dignitaries they could muster to roll out a new 4WD vehicle. They had been running behind schedule but finally pulled an all-nighter before the morning unveiling. They pushed the vehicle outta the garage - Ooooh-Aaaah, etc. The test driver fired her up, revved it a few times, dumped the clutch - and it dug itself 10" into the ground! The rear axle had been installed upside down!

Did you do any TB or crank work? If a tab is broken off the crank gear the thing won't fire the igniters IIRC. Any way to 'hard wire' the fuel pump just till the the thing starts?