1 Lucky Texan

The 'traditional' car computer reset procedure is to disconnect the battery for 15-30 miunutes. I think someone said there is a fuse you can pull that does the same thing. Reconnect and use the car for a few 'start cycles' without using the A/C, the cruise control, and try not to depress the accelerator while starting. These last 2 have been reported as causing problems. Might be worth a try - just a guess really. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Todd C didn't mention confirming proper operation of the fan. Is there any correlation between idling/stopping and the temp creeping up? If so, the fan may nnot be working and you're only getting enough air through the radiatoor while moving. just a thought Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I wish a list could be compiled as to which engines are NI and which ones are benders. This question always comes up. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Just a guess here but I think several of your problems could be caused by bad grounds/cold solder joints. Some pulling/pushing/twisting on some cables under the dash and elsewhwere may help locate a trouble area. hopefully others will have more specific info. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

just a wag but I wonder if this might be one of those problems that are cured by turning off the A/C, then resetting the ECU, driving for a while with the A/C still off before turning it on? Like the ECU learned a bad habit? I've read it works for some weird tranny problems. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Before we bought our '03 OBW we considerd 8-10 other cars, most of which we drove. The Sorento isn't remotely similar to any Subaru. Additionally, it lumbers and pitches down the pavement like a Lincoln on stilts. I can't imagine it being very stable on or off road without some kinda' mods. And after that you still have a KIA. Go drive one just for h*ll of it and report back. Worst car we drove. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Thanx Commuter, I think I got my post backwards. The PureOne filter is what I got. PL14488 or 89 something like that. Anyway, should be good enough. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

There are at least 2 'grades' of Purolater filter. The one I got for my OBW had the 'L' in the part number. I think that means it has the ant-drain valve or something. Got mine at Pep Boys and my Mobil 1 at Wally World. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I myself am new Subaru owner and a first time all/4wd owner, and have learned a LOT from this group. Make SURE the tires on your car have almost identical circumference or you can create 'torque bind' and severely harm drivetrain components. Um - confirm you have normal engine temp readings and normal coolant level. I'm sure others wil have advice more specific. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Thanx Emily! So, is it the late 2. - wait... OK, is the presence of solid/hydro lifters an indicator? is there a LIST of EXACTLY which engines are NON-interferential? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

recently used bosch on a couple (non-soob) cars. I like them. good value. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

OK - I'm very sorry. After re-reading I see my mistake. When you returned you saw a work ORDER. For some reason I thought no work was done at all and you found the car as you left it - THEN complained and got the work done. Actually I see now it was 'cool'. just odd the SOA guy didn't drive it - but he may have been a busy guy. sorry for the confusion. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

If I understand this, there had to be a conspiracy of at least 2 people (likely more) for this to happen and you STILL let them work on your car? That SOA rep needs to be fired and that dealership needs new management and maybe a few new faces. talk about stealerships. What else would they do if they'd do this? *ssholes Carl 1 Lucky Texan

From reading, it's my impression (and I hope someone will confirm) that, in Subaru engines, the interference comes from valves striking each other. That is, there may (anyone) be no Subaru engine that will hit piston to valve. Also, (again from reading and looking at drawings of engines) the interfderence engines have dual overhead cams (4 cams per engine) and this calls for a more acute valve angle such that they can hit each other under TB failure conditions. I've seen NO mention of lifter 'style' changing this fact. If you have 1 cam per 'side'. It's non-int. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

OK - how do you refer to the odometer reading? klicks? "That car has low klicks for a '92."??? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

That's weird. You gotta find out what would cause that. Also, I assume when you rplaced everything you were careful about torqueing the lugnuts and stuff? maybe someone else has a thought but I'd really investigate the caliper assembly and assoc. 'stuff'. Might even try swapping front rotors and throwing in new/different pads. I hope someoone else responds. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Yeah, I've been kinda dreaming about a used Sube for myself (we are new to Subaru and the '03 H6 OBW is really my wife's though I'll probably end up putting 1/2 it's mileage on it - hey, how do folks accustomed to metric refer to 'mileage' on cars?) adn wonder about the '96 and up YMs. W.Virginia probably doesn't get a s hot as Texas but I was told the R-134a wasn't used in Subes before '96 or so. That would be a concern for me. So what engines are in '96 and up? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Did you recently; 1. make a 'panic stop' or otherwise heat up the brakes 2. change brake pads 3. remove and replace the rotors Sometimes the pads can leave material on a hot rotor after an 'incident' of quick deceleration. Incorrect or over torqued lug nuts might cause a problem too. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

If he's reluctant PLAY that up! Good cop bad cop. Put the money you saved from bargaining in a maintanence and repair fund. Hope you won't need it! (we all know you're getting that car - you just haven't done the paperwork yet - your husband is doomed) Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Keep in mind almost eevryone expects to 'bargain' down 10-20% . Rule of thumb on houses is your first offer should be 15% or more lower than asking. Make a nuisance of yourself. Call and ask (eeven the same) questions 2-3 times. Test drive it 2-3-4 times, take 1-2 folks with you. If pertinent in your area, insist on a new inspection sticker. Then make a low-ball offer. You'd be surprised what folks will take just to get you and the car outta their hair. good luck Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Think of it in terms of monthly car payments you'd be paying on a new car - running or not. 3k is like - what - 8 payments or so? Plus, things like timing belts and the stuff associated with it are mainatinence items (unless the belt broke prematurely) so that may not count. call it bad luck. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Some of your symptoms sound like a bad/clogged catalytic converter. Often shows up only under load, after warmup. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

What's the chance that one of your 'friends' was 'zooming' you? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

First thing, confirm you have a clean/new/functioning PCV valve and associated hose. If its clogged/bad it will exacerbate any leak. man, that's a lot of greve/slash/line thingies isn't it? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Thanx Sam, I did find the one for the '03 OBW H6 like I have - looks like $183 bucks or so. Um - I guess it came with the proper bolts? thanx again Carl 1 Lucky Texan