1 Lucky Texan

search for videos - soob axle replacement and re-booting.

some of that seems like a vacuum leak but, GD likely has more to go on now so, maybe he will reply. the fact that it was better after the reset does somewhat point to a sensor though......?

glad you're OK.

also, would be no surprise a '99 needs a new knock sensor. and ground connections refreshed.

is there any smell of gas at the tailpipe when cranking? if not, you have a fuel problem since it didn't fire. if you do, perhaps the cylinders are flooded. pull plugs to see if they are wet/crank with the pedal held to the floor to signal ECU to stop fueling. It's the 'clear flood' procedure. I suppose it's possible to have multiple issues, so, maybe check for spark.

cycle the fob on/off a coupla times - maybe a security feature is in play?

IACV hose drop loose?

This is a good thread with some great pics illustrating some of the crazy valves and piping involved in the fuel tank's operation; https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/whats-inside-fuel-tank-edition-leaking-fuel-tank-autopsy.510193/

any different numbers stamped on the parts maybe?

maybe IACV hose is cracked or partly loose? is that timing supposed to be -10 ?

if you have a part number, check ebay UK?

what codes come back (or show as 'pending') after the work that was done? is the car new to you? if not, has it gradually gotten worse or was there a wreck or some work done just prior to the problem?

details on car? and what are the symptoms of a/c problem. (seems like the blower fan?)

all I have to offer is, sometimes a bad throttle pos sensor will create trans problems.

GD - no chance of 'reverse soaking' or somehow flushing the top valves of the tank? Seems like they just gunk/varnish up and some fuel-safe solvent, and maybe a little persuasion with an air hose or ??? might pop them loose. Anyway, my MIL's Forester had that happen (she used here car very intermittently) and it took a LOT or persuasion to get Subaru to replace the tank.

I'd consider pulling hoses off the canister while filling, to somewhat prove it was bad. there may be 2-3 hoses on it so, you really need a diagram.

I have read the the FSM has a weight limit for canisters? - if they are too heavy with fuel, they get replaced. Not cheap. The system in newer cars is supposed to limit the chance for fuel to get in there but....????

battery cables might be an issue, they can be quite corroded under the insulation and limit current to the starter. Feel of them and see if they get hot? Or wiggle them while someone is trying to start the car. Also, whack the starter with a piece of wood - sometimes that will 'encourage' better contact between the plunger's disk and worn contacts. If the starter never responds to that, the issue may be elsewhere.

subarus have 2-3 oddities that make it easy for subsequent owners to incorrectly deal with some fluid change or, in an effort to save $, use poor parts. They are fairly well engineered which means they last long enough to be abused by the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th owners! lol!

there is a special spray cleaner for MAFs, you could try cleaning it first, there are delicate wires and maybe the Int. Air. temp sensor inside. even a tiny peice of a leaf can throw it off. there have been some MAFs with poor construction inside (intermittent solder connections) and a new sensor may be a good idea.

Welcome back and my life has become a little topsy-turvy recently but I recognize that many people are really suffering. hang in there. There's a 'far side' to all problems - you just have to last 'through' the problem..

you can connect diagnostic wire under the dash and force the solenoids to cycle, at least you'd know it can operate. if topping-off when fueling has been mostly avoided, the carbon canister is unlikey to be flooded so, 'drain' hose or valve is the problem, or the tank valves I think. On some systems, the 'drain' is a 2-way deal. Under normal circumstances, it lets outside air in to compensate for the lower tank volume as fuel is used-up. I guess it also allows air in when the purge valve opens? During fueling, it allows fume-laden air to enter the carbon canister and fume-free air (after the carbon adsorbs the fumes) to escape. it's complicated and there can be some differences between year models. Others may explain it better.

This reminds me of a post I read a long time ago of a wire harness worn-though because it was routed across the steering shaft u-joint/Cardan joint w'ever.

disconnecting hoses is one way to troubleshoot the issue. Could be the 'drain' valve is stuck or it's hose plugged with spider/wasp nest or ??? the worst case, the evap valves built in the top of the tank are stuck. the evap system changes from model year to model year and you need to find the diagram for your model. has the car sat unused for a long period of time or has it regularly been 'topped-off' when filled with fuel in the past?

...and do not overtorque those shoulder bolts, they WILL snap.