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1 Lucky Texan

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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan

  1. 1 Lucky Texan
    look on the right side of the rear engine bay, lower and further back than the ATF stick. No need to idle the car like for ATF. Just pull and check level. If you decide to drain/fill, wipe the metallic sludge from the drain plug magnet. Hopefully no 'pieces' are on there. I think you you need a T-70 Torx bit IIRC.
  2. 1 Lucky Texan
    drive thru very high water? it can flex blades forward....
  3. 1 Lucky Texan
    some folks have had knock sensors go bad with no code. bad temp sensor maybe could cause rich running with no code? maybe 'disturbed' exhaust system now has a little blockage somewhere?
  4. 1 Lucky Texan
    I just fixed my WRX's shifter for the same issue. You either need a new trunnion/shift u-joint, or new bushings in it. I put poly bushings in mine from TIC (Turn-In Concepts). I also upgraded the support rod front and rear bushings with Prothane parts. And I Upgraded the shift handle bushings. Found a youtube video that helped and had a thread here with suggestions from others. It was a fiddly process but I am glad I did it.
  5. 1 Lucky Texan
    my wrx has under 80K miles.
  6. 1 Lucky Texan
    does it smell like diff fluid? maybe someone made a mistake and put diff oil in the trans?
  7. 1 Lucky Texan
    electrical power demand also increases as the brake lights come on - maybe pull their fuse or their bulbs to troubleshoot that idea?
  8. 1 Lucky Texan
    well, you know what happened the last time the Germans and Japanese got together......
  9. 1 Lucky Texan
    ah, missed that the piece is still around.
  10. 1 Lucky Texan
    yeah, any reasonable repair that doesn't increase risk to other parts should be fine. Some folks run with naked belts but I probably wouldn't on any daily driver. If I had just a fun whip, I might not care. maybe JB weld a piece of a CD/DVD/Blueray disc over the hole?
  11. 1 Lucky Texan
    yeah, IF it's cooler, it's subtle and certainly only a few degrees. No sign of leaks and seems like everything is good.
  12. 1 Lucky Texan
    I briefly considered changing the stat but, it seems failure is quite rare and, though 14 years old, it has under 80 K miles. I'm comfortable with it until the next time I change fluid or am into the system for a repair. The know car is gonna need some tlc soon, I love driving it but I know it's going to need some stuff I will likely hire done. $$$, nervous about finding a shop to work on it that's nearby and trustworthy. Eh, maybe spend my stimulus money on it or first coupla Soc Sec checks next year lol! lets see; clutch, plugs, TGV delete, air cut block-off plates, killerB oil pickup,heavier rear sway bar, MC brace, TUNE! hah!
  13. 1 Lucky Texan
    lower Dayco hose needed trimming, seems OK after 3 inches off 1 end, and about 3/4 inch from the other end. I was prepared for that, Gates was the same with a warning about cutting, but a review at Amazon seemed to indicate it still was kinked? Top Dayco seemed like a perfect fit and has nice protective sleeve on it. They were easy enough to slip on. I used Gates constant pressure clamps. They have some kind of stack of dished washers that act as springs? (I think?). They don't seem to crawl backwards as you tighten them either. Filled some thru the top hose, then rad and little turbo tank and put some xtra in the overflow. First run-up after that and it tried to overheat so I shut it down and let it sit overnight. Kinda expected there's be air. In the morning I added, dunno, maybe a 4th or 3rd of a gallon asit had pulled a lot in from the o'flow. Ran to temp, fans on, temp gauge good. Drove to work on Monday. Everything good today as well. I swear it's indicating lower temps. Probably changes slowly with age and the other one was getting less efficient? thanx for the help guys!
  14. 1 Lucky Texan
    on some CANBUS cars, adding an LED bulb is enough to trigger errors.
  15. 1 Lucky Texan
    paging users @traildogck and/or @lmdew
  16. 1 Lucky Texan
    what car model/year?
  17. 1 Lucky Texan
    had to use a coupla zipties to 'bolster' 2 of the plastic bosses that screws go thru for the fans. I dunno, I either cranked too hard or they may have already been cracked....anyway, seemed secure enough but the zipties might help in the long run? first long drive to my 'essential' job and the temp gauge was rock steady - could be my imagination but it might be indicating about 1/2 needle widht lower than before. I'll check for drips and probably inspect my work and the new rad a coupla more times before I get completely comfortable lol!
  18. 1 Lucky Texan
    clear the codes and see which ones return first. could have a bad seal on the gas cap or rusted-thru holes on the filler tube causing the 440. next time it's cold, you could pull plugs and see if one is wet with fuel - maybe an injector is leaking into the cylinder.
  19. 1 Lucky Texan
    RetroRoo in Northglenn area.
  20. 1 Lucky Texan
    yeah, held in by spring C clips (circlips ?) and just need some force to pop out. If you work with big screwdriver or similar at the trans end, be careful not to damage the seals.
  21. 1 Lucky Texan
    well....if true,CO buyers could maybe get the KYB promotion if they buy struts from Amazon or elsewhere?
  22. 1 Lucky Texan
    make sure you have a quality (Japanese preferred) radiator cap. maybe swing by Discount Tire and have them check for nails. clean the glass inside and out. does a Forry have a cabin air filter? - when was it changed last?
  23. 1 Lucky Texan
    there is a spring-loaded valve. appears to be pretty 'dumb'/just mechanical. some info/pics here too; https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/ez-exhaust-mod-anyone-try-it.139/page-2 https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/header-install.27380/page-2
  24. 1 Lucky Texan
    If it's regular, maybe a mechanics stethoscope moved to different spots would help pin-down the location?
  25. 1 Lucky Texan
    the H6es have a hi-flow bypass. Promoted as doing a coupla things, reducing noise but 'perhaps' maintaining scavenging at low rpms, then, allowing higher flow , with more noise, at highway speeds. Noisier at highway speeds anyway so - why not. makes for a very pricey replacement, many folks at this point in the models' life have just replaced it with some 'normal' aftermarket. Mine is still original but, no rust down here.
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