1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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well, I feel better about getting 14 years from my OE rad, though I'm under 80K miles lol! Denso already on the way. Good to know CSF is a good option though. Might help the next guy. I will reconsider the stop leak but, I used it as much for my aging hoses as anything else. I'm using Zerex Asian coolant. -
well, I may have heard a thump, not sure. is the noise once per revolution of wheel?, 3 times, or 6 times? axle nut not loose? if you grab the tire, does it move if you 'lift-rock' it in the 12 to 6 oclock direction? even 1-2mm movement could be a bad bearing, compare to the other side for reference.
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'warped' rotors are rarely truly bent/potato chipped. The weird feeling from warped rotors is almost always uneven pad material deposits. It can happen from holding hot pads on hot rotors for a period of time. Like heating the brakes up going down hill, then a panic stop at the bottom of a hill at a light, followed by sitting in one place for that light to change. Or something similar. there are a others ways a braking system can be 'off' - rust flakes or other debris could prevent a rotor from seating flat on the hub.... and calipers stick all the time. like Imdew said, I've had a pebble stuck between dust shield and rotor before. it doesn't seem like your mallet could have damaged it. what car is this again? Some models around year 2000 have a parts confusion factor depending on manufacture date
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thanx, I have zip-ties on hand, good point too on quantity of fastening points. Running around for a even a week or 2 until I could source a coupla bolts would be fine. won't have parts for a few days, funny how a $111 radiator can turn into a $210 order! lol weather seems not too bad today, but wind last night took a branch down I need to deal with...it never ends....
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new axles but I still have noise
1 Lucky Texan replied to ejnight's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Local tuner likes FEQ heavy duty axles. He gets them from WorldPac ? if you can DIY at all, for sure, least risk/best value, is rebooted used OEM. -
You guys mostly able to reuse hardware with rad swaps? Some reviewers seemed to find threads different or ??? when re-mounting fans, etc. Mostly associated with the all aluminum rads I guess? Shouldn't be any rust issues here, but I'd have to make a run for the screws/bolts as I don't really stock handfuls of that stuff. Some of the fasteners look recessed?, hope my sockets will clear.... ya know....seems like I may have pulled thos fans back when I did the TB....can't recall
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had some conditioner in there from previous coolant fill. It may have been where the odd 'gel' deposit came from. Wondering if it may have been slowing the leak or bought me some time.....? I don't have to install it if it seems like a bad idea. just used it to help prevent seeping or leaks from clamps or maybe a small pinhole.... didn't have a rag with me at roadside, but at home I idled the car while trying to wipe down the area up-top. The most liquid 'appearing' really seemed to be in that crimp channel. If I guess wrong and somehow missed the rad cap, that's gonna be a pricey mistake. I may fire it up again tomorrow. Weather is iffy. I'm bbq-ing overnight and fighting wind and thunder and sprinkling right now. Might have some clear time in the day though.
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seemed fine, it's fairly new Japanese. All the 'wetness' really seemed to be in the 'crimp 'tray'/channel area.
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OK, a few updates; when it cooled, it pulled about 8-10oz it seems from the o'flow bottle, pulled the turbo cap - full, pulled the rad cap, full. So, seems like it may have been seeping slightly, just got worse this morning? can't really justify silicone hose $ or aluminum rad $ right now. I generally try to upgrade when I do repairs, but the OPL radiator seems to require a little surgery/massaging to fit and the other aluminum one I lookde at on Amazon has few reviews. Mishimoto rad and hoses - too rich for me at present. So, I went to RockAuto, getting 4 constant tension clamps, Dayco upper/lower hoses. (hoping the dayco lower will fit better than some reviews about the gates) Denso rad (Koyo seems to not package them well - don't need a return delay) and some coolant. Got Coolant conditioner coming from Amazon. RockAuto has tricky return procedure compared ....that may be its only downside. probably do some disassembly if weather cooperates also, thanks to RA for the promo code, saved me over $10 !
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THanks, I kinda like the OPL from amazon, welded aluminum and 1.5 inches thick but, seems like there's a 1 or 2 'adjustments' required. Denso and Koyo looking good. Dunno what's available at local parts houses like NAPA..... good to read it's usually not problematic to swap. i might get silicone hoses. I have some Mishimoto already in a coupla intake areas.....
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My '06 WRX failed to get me more than 1/3 the way to work this morning. Had a few drops or 'water' up on the winshield near left A pillar, then had a subtle hot coolant smell. Then a wisp of steam. Pulled into a lot, popped the hood. Wet all around front left. High enough that it was blowing back from the hood at the fender panel. Never saw any pinhole stream or active dripping. O'flow tank at mid level , never overheated according to gauge. Went back home. Haven't looked in rad yet - cooling off now. Pulled the snorkel and saw a little gel-booger with dried white-ish deposit 'blown-back' from center-ish area of top tank.(will try to post pic, I haven't really firgured out how to do that very well yet) Everything so far looks like a crimp leak or maybe a crack? in top of rad.? Fans are cycling so, I feel the temp gauge was properly reporting and there seems to be no sign of a headgasket issue . Kinda also wondering about best replacement rad. Denso? TYC? Other? Is there a brand I should prefer or, maybe more important, avoid? I wouldn't ming paying for quality. In Texas, I need as much cooling capacity as I can get. Not really wanting to modify the car so, drop-in prefered of course. Any other work I should do 'while I'm in there' ? I have original hoses so, I plan to replace those. Although it's been wiped away, the little 'gel-like' deposit was near that bolt-head, on the vertical surface of the front brace above the rad's front crimp area. To me, obviously associated with that white deposit. Couold have been seeping for some time.
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hmmm, wonder why that didn't throw a code?
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1 & 2 of course share a coil due to waste spark ignition. checking alignment is not hard, align the crank and do a tooth count. if it sometimes starts/runs, it can't be more than a coupla teeth off. longshot but cheap and easy. no signs of oil on the wire boots? no association with dew/moisture?
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are all 4 tires identical? Subaru's awd system begins being 'unhappy' with as little as 1/4" difference in tire CIRCUMFERENCE. Same size/brand/model and near eact other in wear is a requirement. Could be why the FWD fuse was installed? Also, if incorrect matching of parts with either a trans or rear diff swap occurred, you will also get torque bind. aftermarket axles are a continuing nightmare of poor risks. Best 'value' approach if axles are suspect is to get used OEM and reboot them, at least consdier rebooting the inner joints. check that the inner joints are properly pinned (roll/spring pins hold them on) to the stub shafts in the trans - as well as the stubs properly seated in the trans.(there are circlips that retain them) does the vibration continue if you swap tire pairs front to rear? is a brake caliper stuck?
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does this model have an idle air control hose? sometimes they don't get put back securely.
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All 4 bushings gone on the U-joint gadget - no trace of them. I upgraded most of the parts since I had it out - TiC bushings for the u-joint/trunnion, Prothane for the shifter 'stay' rod w'ever - front rounds AND the rear plug-in. The videos prepared me for a lot. I didn't remove heats shields but would highly recommend it. Make sure you put the car in 5th gear before starting this project. And you need to buy/get/create/'rig,' punches that are 9+ inches long really. I spent a lot of time on those roll pins.....that is a weird fastening approach, is it commonly used elsewhere?
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+1 on checking belt and rollers - esp toothed idler. was steering stiff too? any overheating?
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cycle the fob a coupla times, maybe it thinks it's stolen or the battery was stolen?
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I broke down and yesterday let Mr. Perez - gulp - work on my car. He even swapped the cabin air filter for me (had one on the shelf). less than an hour.
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Rear wiper reservoir clogged?
1 Lucky Texan replied to Arthur Digby Sellers's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
not sure about the overflowing.... I have used ice cubes , shaken vigorously, to clean the radiator overflow. -
paging @GeneralDisorder
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Dex II/III/VI ATF should be used. Valvoline MaxLife is what I used.
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air in the PS fluid quite likely. had to replace o-rings on suction hose adapters on both my soobs.
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any chance you could use a mechanic's stethoscope or even a dowel rod or long screwdriver to the ear to pin-down the location better? my first gut-feelings were serpentine belt idler/tensioner bearings, or possibly cracked flexplate.
