1 Lucky Texan

cars101.com has a history of the security systems, also, fyi, I nothised that Duracell offers some replacement fobs now for some systems, not sure how far back they go. example; https://duracellremotes.com/products/item/6603

I started on the newsgroup (alt.autos.subaru), still check in occasionally, Forums killed those....there's always a newer platform. I guess I may never have a FB page, though, as my grandchildren get older, it's possible I might skip some tech and join/use w'ever some future tech that will allow me keep some contact with them. I can barely use my phone lol!

did you ever hear a 'hooting' noise in the car when the a/c was being used? The H tube or orifice tube w'ever can make an odd noise when the system is overcharged.

I'm no expert, but I would believe the compressor could have shed some debris that caused a spike in the output pressure and THAT caused the hose to blow. Then, just further degradation on the compressor has now led to the noise. kinda unusual failure mode(s) so....hope more experienced folks reply.

1157 type bulbs, and there sockets, can cuase some weird problems due to the dual filaments. Check bulbs VERY carefully for elements shorting to gether and check the bottom of the sockets for corrosion/shorts.

didn't report loss of power steering so, I didn't mention crank pulley. I suppose a glazed belt could be slipping or?????

yeah, check the rear bushing for the lower control arm. Might thump when stopping too?

yeah, ANYTHING related to the cooling system requires a check inside the radiator for cooling system volume. It's important to keep the overflow bottle at proper level in a functioning cooling system, but the o'flow bottle is untrustworthy as an good indicator of coolant volume. if original, a '99 could need a new OEM radiator cap.

get some Meguiars UV spray after you polish them. Helps the work last longer. doh - beat by a fast typer!

OK, there may be a way to use something like aquariam air supply tubing and one of those tiny neodymium magnets. If you had a length of tubing that would fit down the drain tube, with the magnet epoxied in the end, the tubing should help 'stand-off' the magnet from the sides enough that you could still slide the tubing down for a fishing expedition.

do we know the piece isn't just laying in the bottom of the trans? It may just stay there.

all 4 tires the same brand/model/size/wear? any clunking sounds? starting, stopping, turning etc.? does the vibration seem to be in sync with wheel rotation or, about 4 times faster than wheel rotation?

I think they are saying in was around the plug in its 'well' . does the exhaust smell sweet-ish? that would be coolant leaking into a cylinder. Are you losing coolant volume?, alsways check in the radiator when coolant issues may be present. The overflow bottle does need to be about half full - but its level is not a good reflection of actual coolant volume when 'issues' are on-going.

OK, another crazy idea. I once worked in a place where we had to fish wiring thru some bent tubing in borehole acoustic instruments. We would start by using a vacuum on one end,, then feed string thru from the other end until it exited. Then use the string to reverse feed wiring thru. If you could get the end of some dry, lightweight string up into the trans thru the drain while a suction is being pulled on the dipstck tube (best with a clear tubing attached so you can spot the string come thru) , hopefully it doesn't get soggy(see below***) and the airflow will pull it thru, then, after it comes through, you could attach....I dunno....a big knot or ball of cork...something just smaller than the inside diameter of the tube. Maybe then when you pull the string thru, it would pull the metal piece out with the object on the end of the string. ***(if the string is too unlikely to stay dry, first try to feed some tubing just large enough to go thru the drainhole up into the trans, then feed the string thru the tubing...might avoid oil on the bottom of the trans at least....) or, feed string DOWN first?with vacuum on the drain hole, maybe attach the ball/knot if the string will come out the drain hole, then pull up??? lots of ifs but, ???

hard to say about ABS function, you could have a bad wheel sensor or other issue....But checking voltage should be easy and is a known problem area.

abs is very sensitive to voltage, check that. ever replace the alternator? MANY, many folks have installed incorrect/poor rebuilt alternators.

some folks like the Mevotech 'loaded' replacement arms - some of those folks might put an OEM ball joint on it in place of the M'tech one. KYB is the go-to on struts. I strongly suggest new strut mounts as you bearings are likely dry and crunchy at 19 years old. you might check youtube for videos. Some folks borrow McPherson strut spring compressors from the parts store and DIY the whole process. Others take their assemblies and new parts to a shop and pay them to swap over. 2 main 'gotchas'; the 'spacer'/conical washer at the top must present its narrow side UP. And, the springs and top spring perch are oriented 'out' , towards the fender so keep an eye on that or mark them before disassembly.

how much torque does a turbo banjo bolt get?

wonder what the rod the end of the piston rod rests on in the adapter looks like?

not sure, around here, we sometimes have the weathermen mention ozone alert days....we are discouraged from using gas-powered lawn or other equipment.

double check battery cable connections. Charging circuit probably needs testing too. has there been a history of lots of fuzzy battery corrosion? battery cables can corrode inside the insulation. try whacking the starter a little harder - use a piece of 2x4 or similar.

OK, here is a stupid, last-ditch, idea. drain the lube out and tightly fit an airhose somehow - maybe compressed air could push it out? dunno if seals would be damaged?

welcome!

was any work done to the car just before this occurred?

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