1 Lucky Texan

original transmission? there was a recall for broken parking pawls - but starting in 2001 I think. mightbe time to check car-part.com for a trans....

DOH! , nvrmd

while you're back there, check the diff mount bushings. not long after I bought it, I had Subaru SPT 'Pinks' put on my WRX. About 3/4" lower and about twice as stiff as stock I think. Dunno if anything like that is still available....

probably a clogged evap 'drain' hose or malfunctioning/stuck evap valve. Try a search for the problem there are several threads about the issue. Locate the charcoal canister and try fueling with various hoses disconnected, you might locate the area of the problem that way.

check car-part.com for trans prices, then decide how deep into the diagnosis you want to go. Certainly not impossible for the diff to be shot, but odds are 90% axle vs 10% diff.(a very generalized statement) If I wasn't dead-certain, I'd even consider taking the inner boots off my axles to inspect the doj before condemning a diff.

exactly, low pressure sensor will prevent damage to the compressor by inhibiting operation. after vacuuming, repairs, etc. , there's usually enough pressure to satisfy the sensor when the first can of refrig. goes in. there may be 2-3 youtube videos that show the process.

a 99 anything could easily have leaked out refrigerant below the amount required to run the compressor. You may need a coupla o-rings and new schrader -type valves in the system and a re-charge. An a/c tech will have vacuum/recovery equipment and the knowledge to diagnose and fix the system. or, read here;

^^^^ good point FerG, I had something similar happen on a Toyota in the past.

were OEM hub assemblies installed? any recent work on that area of the car? maybe the brake dust shield is rubbing on the rotor?

Everything is shades of grey and black - I frequently use a flashlight underhood and sometimes under the car - more so in the garage.

I also am no expert. If there are no trouble codes, perhaps there's a very specific issue with the cruise, maybe even in the roll connector/clockspring in the steering wheel. Does the horn work? Test at different wheel positions. Bad brake switch? Some issues can 'back feed' from bad/shorted brake light sockets.......even the wiring in the boot from body to hatch.....Or, there can be transmission and other controllers besides the ECU (TCU?) that could be involved. Some cars in 2005 to 2008,9 w'ever 'era' can have poor solder joints. Or, maybe some contact cleaner sprayed on the switch with some vigorous working up/down/forward/back w.ever could help? maybe someone else will respond.

sometimes there are pending codes stored - you might scan the ECU for DTCs. A parts store can do that for you.

check for loose heat shields on that rattle.

you might look into King or Rallitek springs too.

Fresh fluid will often clean/open-up any gummy valves so, fingers crossed the issue gets better. Some folks have also had luck using a product like TransX so, you could try that on a future fill if fresh fluid doesn't help. Valvoline MaxLife DexIII/VI compatible, w'ever, auto trans fluid is what I would use. this topic does come up a lot, but most of the guys here aren't cranky most of the time so, you don't get 'as much'; "Use the search function NOOB!!!" -type responses as you might at some other forums.

I wonder if the hose to/from the IACV is loose? that will kill the ability to idle. skipped cam/crank timing 'might' behave that way....

If the present trans fluid looks pretty good, you could do a single drain/fill. That gets you about 40%+ new fluid. many folks will then drive a little, do it again, drive a little, do that a 3rd time. 3 d-f cycles get you over 80% fresh fluid. Or, do it once, maybe again next year, then do it every 2 years...? w'ver you're comfortable with. The tourque conv. holds a lot that won't reach the drain plug. There are slightly more complicated ways to to do a full change. Remeber to shift thru each gear after top-up, and check while IDLING on level ground. Also. the marks on the stick are only a few ounces apart - NOT a qt like on the eng. oil dipstick so, fill slowly. Also, fill the front diff slowly - I use a funnel that has a hose attached. For the front and rear diffs - you might check into a WalMart semi-synthetic/synth'blend' GL-5, affordable and reports are it's OK fluid. If you do the rear diff, take the FILL plug out first. Don't want to drain it and then have no way to move/drive it if the fill plug is stuck. I had to use my floor jack on a breaker-bar handle. A gear oil pump will help fill it. some cars go to their grave without getting diffs serviced. But, if you do it, probably never have to do it again.

possible clock spring/roll connector problem? try holding the horn down and turning the steering wheel - maybe it's intermittent and you'll hear a chirp - that would cinch it.

yikes, I bet you get it fixed, fingers crossed

stub axles are common on other models pre-05, 06 or so. Our 03 Outback has stubs and axles in the form of that upper pic.

I'd look for something causing toe problems. could be something only happening 'dynamically'. dunno much about how to do that....

it was loud? how? scan for pending codes try starting with the pedal held to the floor, that signals the ECU to cut fuel in case of a 'flooded' engine. check the radiator for lost coolant. don't trust the overflow to reflect coolant level, but keep it filled to it's normal line and note any changes in its amount more than +/- a few ounces.

maybe check for bad cap/o-ring on fuel pump bad knock sensor can kill power

I'm also surprised it isn't a broken axle/'tripod' joint/cvj, given the history.

to be perfectly correct, at 3, you are bringing the crank to a belt install position, it isn't TDC, it's about 90* from that such that all the pistons are at mid-travel and well-clear of the valves. a good triple-check at the end before starting the car would be to do a tooth-count between all the timing marks. You find that info on-line. The belt reference marks will be gone after you crank the engine around 2 times. they may only repeat ever 197 revolutions or some crazy number.