1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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if you haven't, find the 'tooth count' for your engine on-line to triple check timing. -
thanx for reading/searching first. Don't hesitate to start a thread on a problem though - only a few of us are as crusty as those guys at NASIOC ! lol
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you could use the green 'diagnostic' connectors under the dash - when connected, various relays and fans should cycle on/off. at least, they do on newer soobs - I guess they will on a 97......
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so it does, my bad. NGK plugs?, OEM wires? no oil on the old boots? if so, I think the coil pack is a very likely source of the problem.
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well, you can try a coil pack I guess but, you should try to catch-up on any maintenance or repair items. Could be old plugs.....
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miles on car? new to you? well maintained or unknown or neglected....?
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what car do you have? My first guess would have been coil pack due to waste spark ignition - other possibilities are ; plugs, plug wires, oil on plug wire boots from leaking valve cover gaskets.
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Vinegar + salt + 16 hrs rust eater ! PICS
1 Lucky Texan replied to Steptoe's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I think there's a reaction that creates weak hydrchloric acid and sodium acetate? I think I have seen videos or articles where reverse electrolysis was used on rust too? -
I think KYB makes them - haven't read of them being poor quality but will defer to idosubaru's experience. for better pricing on OEM, check here; https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/121-subaruonlineparts-com/501795-new-lower-pricing-subaru-gear-codes-vip-s.html or, use their price to get your local dealer to match? also, be sure to get the orientation correct on the spacer/conical washer. the narrow side goes UP .
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I searched around and found a pic that could help, this is supposed to be an Aussie Gen2 outback trailing arm mount; from; http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-10705.html
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you may need to change to an updated xover pipe that better balances coolant flow. P/N 14070AA361 (the old P/N is 14070AA360).
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put a WTB in the classifieds here - someone may have a diff sitting around. , check ebay too, or, maybe a car is being 'parted-out' on craigslist.... but, seems like you still need an accurate diagnosis.
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There has been discussion about this at another Forum by folks much more knowledgable than me and it seems that, maybe starting with canbus (around 05 depending on model I think) the rear-most sensor may be part of the 'algorithm' for adjusting the a:f ratio. hopefully one of the gurus here can chime in on this.
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if the after-cat sensor's wiring and integrity are good, anything that prevents the converter from 'lighting-off' will return an error. In a good working system, you can even use an infrared therm and see that after cat exhaust piping could be 100*F hotter than the piping at it's intake. So, if the exhaust going into the cat does not support the 'catalytic action' for some reason, the reaction won't happen and the rear sensor won't be 'happy'. on older cars, that sensor is just a cat conv 'nanny' and could be ignored or 'cheated' with a spacer or a coupla resistors to clear the code, but on most(?) newer cars ( and, it seems, on Gen2 H6es), it seems to also be used by the ECU to modify a:f .
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if the car has fuel 'dampeners' on the rails, they can tick on some cars. I've read you might be able to feel it, or, perhaps use some tubing to your ear and listen to various areas/parts? also, you might consider taking your time on getting the timing covers, some folks run 'naked'. it's scary looking but likely safe - even more so if you still have your undercover.
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2006 WRX wagon we have an 03 H6 Outback too. Probably get my wife a new car in a year or 2, but, we don't NEED 3 cars, yet, I don't want to trade-in either of the present cars..... never read about priming a tensioner, just warnings about re-compressing them too fast if re-using.
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my WRX 5spd has 5 belt guards. do you think your car rolled or was pushed in gear and caused the slip?
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if there's noise/symptom there now that absolutely wasn't there before - and given the trip you are planning, the risk of a major headache on the road in this car as it is now is WAY to high. Valves can easily burn/erode if they are leaking. the key would be a GOOD diagnosis before anything else, but, be prepared for bad news and get Plan B set-up NOW. time to call-in any favors or get some help from family, etc.
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don't drive with a donut spare without using the FWD fuse. all 4 tires NEED to be identical - same brand/model/size and near each other in wear. maybe the tires you bought are asymmetrical and one got mounted incorrectly?
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^^^ good Idea Citrasolv might work, and, actually, WD-40 is a decent solvent, much better than its lubrication ability really. Alcohol could work but would need to be tested. I would test w'ever you use on some 'hidden' plastic first. Check for any 'gumminess' after use and clean-up. Be prepared to follow-up with some cleanser as most of these will have an odor.
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calipers can bind intermittently, often due to rubber sleeves on the slider - they swell up sometimes. many folks remove them. extremely rare but abd hydraulic hoses have been known to hold pressure. check wheel movement for bad wheel bearing i guess? basically, if the noise is in sync with tire rotation,that tells you which parts to examine. And, if it is noisy at walking speed, pace the car while someone drives slowly to determine which side the problem is on. after a highway run, an infrared thermometer might fine a hot hub - stuck caliper of bad bearing might cause more heat. any wrecks or work done to the car before this began?
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I have no help other than to suggest you are not far from Shawn at RetroRoo. Founder of this Forum where we are writing! https://www.retroroo.com/
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there is a youtube video of an inner (front) DOJ being regreased and rebooted in-car. Looks awkward but do-able.
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loose sway bar endlink?
