1 Lucky Texan

not sure on specifics, but there are plenty of complaints over at subaruoutback.org

I dunno, some people with troublesome 4EATs have had luck with an additive like Trans-X helping with engagement issues. I guess it cleans valve bodies or swells shrunken seals or something.....

what car? Assuming it's an EZ30, sitting in the car, the right side bank is cyl #1 at the front of the car, #3 next moving back towards the firewall, and last is number 5' the left side is 2, 4, 6

My 06 WRX wagon ate 2nd gear, local tuner shop rebuilt it, $2K probably would have looked for a used one at car-part.com except mine had very low miles. they claim 3rd gear is weak but sometimes 2nd goes. and second is cut onto a main shaft.... wish I'd had the money for a 6spd swap

fingers crossed it isn't too viscous this winter.

broken axle? maybe center diff is stronger in reverse???

Maybe getting stuff out of Australia is faster?

the one I use looks like this; Pour diff oil SLOWLY .

I use a funnel with a hose. Check levels in the trans while idling, after running thru all the gears. The marks on the auto's stick are only a few ounces apart - not a liter/qt like engine stick so, sneak up on FULL.

first, you might want to check here; https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/121-subaruonlineparts-com/501795-new-lower-pricing-subaru-gear-codes-vip-s.html that's the most recent OEM source I used. Prices were good before the discount. I dunno who is quickest to ship but, I have also used ; fredbeansparts.com, genuinesubaruparts.com and amazon and ebay but I don't know who fulfilled the order.

folks love those engines....just wondering thanx

just curious but, does Subaru still sell 2.2l short blocks?

just wondering, on a hill, does Park (with no P brake set) hold the car?

a user in Wyoming would love to have the engine I bet paging @BlueSoob

yeah, cracked/broken forks are a known thing. doesn't mean you couldn't also have a problem in the hydraulic system too. I've seen someone (Cusco, Perrin or ?????) that offers a HD fork - probably a good option for folks upgrading to hi-perf clutches.

try parting it out? craigslist I guess is how folks do that nowadays or pull the better/smaller parts yourself and offer them in the classifieds on the forums?

^^^ awesome post

I think a second set of eyes ,safely, looking at what each front axle is doing could be helpful. Maybe one is broken in the inner 'tripod' joint and spinning some, catching a little, then spinning. Might need to put a piece of tape as a 'flag' on the axle or paint a little dot of liquid paper w'ever to make it easier to spot. If it isn't that, probably the front diff is bad in the trans. There is a magnet on the frt diff drain plug - if it has anything other than 1/8 to maybe 1/4 teaspoon of sludge on it, or worse, 'pieces' of metal, that points to its failure.

older soobs sometimes have bad knock sensors with no code. One of the few sensors where cheap ebay units have worked OK for a lot of people. but, it usually fails by pulling timing so.....?????

hmmm.... you could try the FWD fuse. use any size spare fuse. It's in the box under the hood.... is it still 'clanking' ? have someone walk beside the car and try to determine which end/side of the car is loudest. has the car ever had a trans or rear diff swap? all 4 tires identical brand and model and size?

too bad....

In another post GD mentioned new castings from Raybestos were a better option than typical rebuilts - dunno if they're available for your car but worth searching for. I think he said RockAuto has them, maybe other sources too?

just a reminder but, you must check trans fluid level while idling. It will read very high when the engine is stopped. best after a fill to shift into every gear, leave it idling in Parl, pull the stick, wait a minute for the level to drain back down, then check. Also, the volume difference between H and L is only a few ounces, NOT a qt/liter like engine oil stick marks. So, you have to sneak-up on the level.

though it seems to be exceedingly rare, it is possible for hydraulic hoses to fail inside by a layer partly coming loose and making a sorta-'check valve'.

read this; https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/37399-vibration-idle-after-replacing-front-axles-solved-6.html#post5831287