1 Lucky Texan

IACV, try a search, I've read of this but do not recall specifics.

I once did this (well, a poor attempt) in a Honda decades ago and the CC flushed lube from the lock - had to re-lube the lock. of course, I didn't disassemble the column, just tried squirting in THRU the lock ! lol it was almost a disaster, the lock was seized for a while!

Cool, it's way too far for me to visit but, at least, I think Gillman enjoys a decent reputation.

Tex....Texas? where!?

I wasn't sure so, thanx

It's OK to mix tire models like that on your car? No torque bind?

any other problems of an electrical nature? maybe refreshing some grounds would be helpful

wonder if it was cheaper, or done to make 'cloning' the circuit more difficult for the competition? auto suppliers often work with fractions of a cent for bidding a job. you're probably in for smooth sailing now.

no, increase engine rpms - revvvv..... cps is just above the rear of the crank sprocket, below the alt. It senses pulses from the tabs on the sprocket and is used by the ecu to fire the spark. (well, basically)

weird

if you were to rev in N, is there a point at which it would start missing? some older soobs would have crank pos. sensors that would get intermittent at temp....I've also seen at least one post where cleaning debris from a cps helped it! any association with rain/dew/moisture? how old are the plug wires?

not a code monkey, just a long-time tech. Used to work from masters but now almost everything is file-picked off the server(some Customer stuff is on cflash masters). We mostly just build hardware, but we customize bioses and have some code for customers they want loaded so their equip can just be pulled from the shelf so, we keep a lot of their stuff to burn. Plus generic stuff like romdos, dr dos, windows CE, linux....etc. I work at "a long-time embedded computer manufacturer located 'near' Arlington TX" so, the fob's pass code will reside in that part and the other chip will enabled when there's a match from the latest signal? seems odd that it seems 'erased'. I may have spotted a post that said it was possible, but I would have thought old codes would just be overwritten with the newest???

ah, that's why the number seems weird to me, never messed with serial mem stuff. 4001 and similar, yeah. Mostly now, I help out the girls downstairs since the Data I/O 2300 promaster's DIP head doesn't work. Just PALs though, ep320, PEEL18cv8, ATV750s , etc. Using a BP Mico 1610. maybe it isn't used for code, just temporary data?

the Data I/O has a C46 definition? (it that an 8K device ???) does that device have a security lock? sometimes you have to scroll a lot to find the data block

the 2 items I got from subaruonlineparts were priced well BEFORE the discount code i got from here; https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/121-subaruonlineparts-com/501795-new-lower-pricing-subaru-gear-codes-vip-s.html I've also used fredbeansparts and subarugenuineparts in the past - along with amazon and ebay

on a 95 - the rubber could crack 'at any moment' just get new mounts for both sides - the other side's bearing is likely dry and crunchy too. many folks get KYB mounts. don't over torque those 3 little nuts, theire spec is very low - 4-5 ftlbs or something (check with a better source than my memory!) Be sure the top spacer (conical washer) has its narrow side up. It is supposed to only touch the inner race. Sometimes when folks assemble the strut assemblies it gets flipped. That will cause dragging. squeaking and maybe pulling too.

I assumed you must have tried this many times which is why I wondered if this could be an issue just with the chirp feedback part of the circuit. There must be a parallel trigger to the horn relay or parallel relay. I could def. see a less-than-smooth lock cylinder being tricky - maybe even needing to hold some pressure on the steering wheel so that 'steering' lock doesn't interfere? I have only needed to program remotes twice on my 03. I was lucky and don't recall much drama. If I keep the car, the next remote may not be so easy.....

I should have said remote locking system - evidently, customers felt the horns were too loud and they added another horn on beginning with some later model. Joe has probably successfully programmed many remotes. so, if the horn chirped on the 11th or 12th cycle, or the 9th, what would you do? maybe you could get some contact cleaner on the ignition switch? I'm not arguing the design, as you say, there could be excessive contact bounce or a ratty signal that's rejected by some input filtering..... you seem quite frustrated and it seems I haven't been very helpful so, your bench approach will likely be the best approach for you.

If you have never heard this system work, it occurs to me, suppose the horn chirp is silent due to a problem? maybe you HAVE been in program mode but never heard the chirp? On my 03, there's a separate horn for the remote lock system (not sure on a 99 - at some point they switched from the car's horn to a dedicated sec. horn) but, if the actual sec. horn is bad, or, some relay from the sec. system to the car's horn is bad - you wouldn't hear the chirp. maybe try to test the security horn if so equipped. Or, find a schematic for how the sec. system chirps the car's horn and find a way to check that circuitry. Could just be a bad ground wire or relay somewhere.

probably not, but even the cars101 site says 'approx' 10 times, every post I've read says success is when you are quickly but carefully doing it within 15 seconds until the horn honks - that is, don't fixate on the number 10.

you could try a chemical 'block test' or send a coolant sample to a lab for analysis. sure seems like a HG internal leak though.

I think I have read of people that just keep twisting until they hear the honk or w'ever. 12-15 times - w'ever. it's 'approx.' 10 times maybe I have the details wrong?

The suction hose at the pump end is clamped onto an elbow type of fitting. The fitting is held into the top of the pump by a bolt. There are 1 or 2 o-rings inside there(depending on model). they become stiff/less compliant with age and let air into the sytem causing whining and sometimes jerky or hard steering.

just speculation; I can only imagine a difference (and it may be slight) with clearing water so, maybe one direction and hydroplaning happens 1mph, 3mph, 8mph, ??? sooner/later than reversed? I suppose also, the tread design near any 'blocks' at the shoulder could have some difference in snow/mud? on dry pavement, I doubt anything could be noticed other than 'maybe' road noise.

any codes stored? how long since timing belt was serviced? if pulses from cam and crank sensor 'disagree' much, I think the ECU prevents the engine from running? so, maybe cam or crank sensor - or timing slipped a few teeth? look for any other electrical issues - maybe a fuse is blown?