1 Lucky Texan

Scalman is nextdoor in Lithuania I think @scalman

some newer soobs are shipping with smaller batteries. Probably an EPA-induced attempt to reduce weight. many complaints about that issue in Outbacks over at www.ou ...uh....another Forum.

just an aside, a guy I work with used to work for Littlefuse. He is sharp! Kinda good to see they can make good stuff.

tried starter fluid? if it fires/runs, that would point to a fueling issue.

what years seem to be affected? any relation to 'low' viscosity oil?

problem is, high output lights have reduced lifespan - that, plus, the xtra vibration of off-road will likely reduce the lifespan so, you'll be replacing them every 3-6 months. Some of them are hotter and might warp/melt the housing too. are any of your bulbs 9005 or 9006? There are some Toshibas, 9011 and 9012 (I THINK, please search) HIR type bulbs that are about 20% brighter - just need a tab cut/filed down to work. or some kind of Morimoto projector upgrade with HIDs ?

nvrmd

I might consider adding a coupla new lights. on the bumper or on a bar.....

any odd sounds when the light is on? it does seem like you've found the problem but, I think I'd want to check at the battery with a voltmeter, check the belt and maybe check the crank pulley for slippage. (it's 2 piece and can delaminate)

1. Was it towed on a flat bed or with some wheels on the ground? 2. to where was it towed? 3. is the car new to you? has it been well maintained? were fluid levels checked (particualry trans fluid, it must be check while idling.)

!!!! wow!

I guess it depends on whether you smell fuel, or, get some kind of evap or tank pressure codes thrown I guess ? - that would be my main concern . I suppose there are sealant options if required ?

if the valve cover gaskets leak oil into the plug tubes, that would increase the need to service them. You will begin getting misfures and that stresses the car for power and can ruin the cat. conv. . Probably not good for the coil either.

sounds kinda like an oil/water emulsion. I suppose some kind of failure of the trans cooler coil inside the radiator could create some substance like you described. again, check ALL fluids. remember, trans is checked while idling.

just check all your fluids and examine the CV boots - particularly the inner one for splits. maybe the rain is washing across some pre-existing oil or grease....? some folks that have had older 4EATs with 'delayed engagement' report very good results from using Trans-X. Often, they add it after doing a coupla drain/fill/drive-a-little procedures before the final darin and fill with the Trans-X only in the final fill.

kinda wondering if you have a sticking caliper. Light use of brakes could make it sound worse, heavy use could 'reset' it/free-up/shift the caliper? but, seems like you have experienced this before so......

sometimes, vice grips make things worse because the main force is squeezing tighter in one direction. Worth trying in an emergency of course. those VGs with the 'wr' suffix are very handy to have. they have a flat section, a curved pipe/rod grabbing area, and a wire cutter area - lots of holding and destruction options ! lol

some folks will take the top hose loose and fill the block with coolant thru there, then reconnect and finish filling. To try to reduce trapped air.

does it change if you touch the brakes? with turning L or R ? ever happen at slow enough speed someone could pace the car and listen for the location better? can you feel the vibration? seat-of-the-pants? steering wheel? you might point an infrared thermometer at each corner after a highway run.

I've never done it so, I'll say probably. There are also 'pancake or waffle' adapters that folks sometimes use under the oil filters - I think when they add gauges inside the car. others will probably have better advice. I know the low pressure switch, for the warning light in the inst. cluster, only comes on at very low pressure - like 4 psi !

make sure you check in the RADIATOR for coolant level until this gets fixed. don't rely on the overflow to reflect coolant volume accurately. it can help to get the nose of the car elevated and boost revs a little after the fans come on, when 'burping' air from it after a coolant refill. good luck

if you re-work this engine, you might consider an upgrade to the oil pump. particularly if that engine has a 7mm pump, get a 9. If you have a 9mm now, maybe consider a 10 or 11. at 228K miles, I'd bet some bearing clearances have opened a little.

don't forget to dig out your English sizes to try too.

cool next time you feel certain the crank time would be too long, try this; switch the key from OFF to ON but avoid START. Switch back to OFF after 4-5 seconds (it's this time the fuel pump runs for 2-3 seconds to assure pressure in the rails) then, immediately cycle to ON, wait, OFF, ON, wait, OFF, START. do the on/off/wait a few seconds quickly in a sequence of 3-4 times, then see if it starts normally. could be something is draining pressure from the rails - leaky injector, fuel hose clamp, pulse damper....

sometimes pins get 'pushed-back' inside connector housings.