1 Lucky Texan

even if you drill it out from the backside with increasingling larger bits, if you end-up damaging the threads, you can use a thru-bolt with a washer and nut.

just guessing, did you see the car on the lot? I'm sure if the title can't be found, they can get a replacement. But, sometimes, excuses are made for other reasons. I once had a lot try to scare me off by saying an advertised car wasn't on the lot because it was being repaired. I said, that's cool, when is it gonna be back for a test drive, some other guy came out and said it had a bad headgasket - I said, that might not be show stopper, can you call me when it's available? The first guy said yeah, we'll def. do that. I gave them my number, never got a call. Always wondered if it was some kind of bait and switch thing or what was really going on.

hmmmm....wonder if 'not finding the title' was how they told you 'no, deal is off' .?

40 is a little high for normal driving, check the manual or sticker on the door frame for proper values - but yes, if they all aren't the same 'rolling radius' you can have torque bind. If that was the issue, great. because some others ways that torque bind occurs require transmission work.

does seem like torque bind. Try tight circles without, then with fuse in place. Let us know results. tell us about your tires, they must be identical - not just same size, same brand/model as well. Also, is the car new to you? could it have had a trans or rear diff replaced?

Subaru dealer? in a new thread, you could aask for a shop suggestion near your city - someone may know of a Subaru-friendly independent mechanic. Talk to them about a pre-purchase inspection. Use any serious issues as a reason to either walk away, or get a lower price. At minimum, you waant to drive on-off the freeway after warm-up and watch the temp gauge and maybe look at the overflow bottle for excess fluid or bubbles. Drive in tight circles on dry pavement - should be no grabbing/bucking. Tires need to be IDENTICAL - not just same size - same brand and model too. If they cannot prove unequivocally that a PROPER timing belt system service was done, assume you need to have that done at least.

only used it once so far, but the BAFX I got from Amazon works on my 03 outback. fyi

^^^^ yeah, metal or rusty debris on the sensor might cause intermittent operation - good post

I think early ABS had an issue with a relay or something buzzing, but this seems different, like a bad wheel sensor or a wire/connector that's intermittent.

GD can confirm but, I don't think the style tensioner on a 2.2 has a reputation for making the same noise as the newer style can.

is the lower rad. hose getting hot?

AFAIK, open loop is after an ECU reset, just for a few miles or a coupla starts - it begins altering settings as it gathers info from the sensors - not at every start. do you run high octane fuel? It's recommended.

does the car run normally/better immediately after a battery disconnect reset? bafx with a smartphone and torque app might work for you sometimes, sensors can fail at high temp - crank sensor for instance engine temp sensor might be bad, car runs good cold, but the sensor is always telling the ECU to 'choke' because it's cold - if that has been a problem for a long time, might explain cooked cat converter ??? knock sensor can rob power, but they are usually cracked and bad all the time. getting live data may help find the problem so, hope one of the gurus here can spot an issue in the data.

did you set a code? P2138 or similar?

does the car have any aftermarket electronic gear? Remote start or security system?

seems opposite of piston slap so, I'm thinking it could be rod knock. I think an oil sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis could be definitive. Or, post a link to a recording, maybe one of the gurus here could ID the noise.

I've never used one but, there some 'piggy-back' connectors you can jam into the fuse block - use an in-line fuse with it and you may be able to power that wire.

GD - is it number 8 in this drawing?

if it's a concern on these 'hulks' - flatbed towing will protect the center diffs

^^^^ excellent post

does your model have the trailer light harness? maybe there's a way to use that?

coupla ideas; can you borrow an impact wrench? the hammer effect might help. try TIGHTENING first. sometimes that can break things loose. as for heat, I guess you tried when the car has just been stopped and is at operating temp?

well.... come back when you have a Subaru lol

dunno about 'stacking' antenna boost - maybe contact user botenredwolf at subaruoutback.org , he's a car audio guru. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/ http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/