1 Lucky Texan

probably have to confirm some numbers off the trans and rear diff or, confirm proper tire pressure, go to some big parking lot/abandoned road, mark the tires with chalk at the bottom, drive straight for - 10 (?) or so revolutions of a tire, then compare front and rear tire chalk marks. if rears are 'significantly' off from the fronts (over 2 inches or so ???) further investigation may be needed. but if it wasn't severe and has been deteriorating, it may just be some buildup of deposits or odd failure of the duty c vlave or the wet clutch pack? The 'basket' in the clutchpack can have roughness/grooves worn into it and may not release the clutches well. maybe a previous owner negectfully drove with mismatched tires and damaged the clutch pack unit....?

95 may not be OBDII - it was for some cars, but not all I think. Maybe you can get a blink code out of it?

just FYI, it's OK to drive with the FWD fuse in as long as you need, just remember that on actual slippery/poor surfaces, you have no AWD ability. this car never had a replacement rear diff or transmission did it? Mismatched final drive ratios will cause torque bind. You said it has done this your entire ownership? Wonder if the previous owner swapped a mismatched unit into the drivetrain.

does it run better immediately after an ECU reset? If not, I'd look for a physical problem; vacuum or intake mani leak or dropped valve guide/tight valve as mentioned, etc, if it does run better after a reset, probably a bad sensor - a:f or knock sensor.....? maybe as simple as cleaning the MAF ???

backfiring is a symptom that might point to slipped timing.

many folks report problems using full synthetic GL-5 in the newer cars (dunno if that applies to older trans ???), maybe you got synth in there? walmart sells a GL-5 synthetic 'blend' that is cheap and has some happy users.

tom, recall about what size punch fits thru the misaligned parts?

the pin is usually a 'spring pin' so, just wondering if a small extractor is worth trying? maybe pull it out from the insertion side if there's not enough to grab with vicegrips or similar? longshot I know.....

If the punch size you're using isn't entering at least 1/2+ the diameter, you are npwhere near knocking out the pin - as said above, locate a smaller dia. punch. If you have the old axle from the other side, you should be able to test and mark the punch/drift at a point where 1/2 it's length is inside. It's a tiny clearance.

lol - note to self, try to alternate "smoke hatchet" with "blue wrench" in future conversations about heating stubborn connections with a torch!

the heat is a last resort but not a deal breaker. One trick I learned from the forums, after heating a connection, squirt penetrating fluid on it (50:50 acetone/ATF, Kroil, PB Blaster w'ever - avoid fumes and fire!) and as the joint cools, the fluid may be 'pulled in'. But if you think the rubber lamination in the pulley and the pulley bolt were compromised, get a new bolt and a Perrin lightweight pulley to replace them.

you can probably find the FSM for your car here; https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU

many things will trigger a P0420 - even though cat. conv. is part of the definition, you are wise not to assume the problem is the cat. , sometimes it is just a misfire, vacuum leak, or exhaust leak - other stuff. NGK spark plugs are MUCH preferred. Check your manual. OEM also preferred for plug wires - your car could easily need both. If you still experience cyl4 misfires after a plug swap, swap a different plug wire with cyl 4 and see if the misfire follows the wire - or just get a new set. Sometimes spraying a little water from a plant mister around the plugs, wires, and coil at night will show bad parts arcing - might even cause the engine to stumble. In future, post the actual codes you read. search here, subaruoutback.org and even Youtube for some DIY help.

nothing wrong with catching up on any regular maintenance, but I'm not convinced plugs will cure the problem(s) you are experiencing. Is the CEL on? have you scanned the car for codes? post them up and soeone may be able to help you. What does the trans fluid look like? remember to check it while idling - it's the only fluid checked that way. You could start a new thread asking for a shop recommendation near Omaha, someone may be familiar with a Subaru-friendly mechanic.

get a better 6 point impact socket, try popping it in the TIGHTEN direction for as fast as you can get your finger on and off the trigger - then try removing it ?

you sure the relay isn't dropping out?

a 2.2l engine would be awesome - tough, reliable, non-interference that's about all I have to offer - wiring harness marriage is gonna be tricky not sure on your trans HOW you'd force 4WD fulltime, but it's not advisable unless the vehicle would never be on dry pavement - too much stress in the drivetrain. try a search using Subaru Brat ,swap, conversion in the search string - definitely try over at www.NASIOC.com

put a rag over the belt and around the area.

size is good but really, tires should be 'identical' - same brand, model, AND size of course, and near each other in wear level. Same size but different model is no good - identical. that said, some folks have done 3 trans fluid drain/fill/drive a few days - type cycles and had luck freeing-up gummy deposits that may interfere with solenoid/valve operation. the clutch pack in the tail section of the transmission may be bad. under the hood in the fuse box there should be a spot for a spare fuse - any size fuse - that puts the car in FWD mode, you could try that as a diagnostic and temporary fix. you are experiencing 'torque bind' , but it isn't clear yet why.

that does not seem like enough offset hope others will reply with more info

could be mode or blend door in the HVAC system. maybe try setting the system for defrost or some other modes as a test?

road racers often want struts with adjustable rebound - it helps the car 'hunker down' as cornering becomes more intense. But, not sure if it's worth the expense of trying it out on your car - or even if such struts are available. I THINK Tokico may have some units for some other cars, and maybe a Koni insert of sometype ???? That involes drilling-out/modifying stock struts for an adjustable insert. Motorpsorts guys might know, I have only read a tiny amount - I think 'most' adjustable struts do no adjust the rebound - just compression ???

hmmm....how about a product like Quick-link or Power Twist. Not sure about longevity or if they can be properly tensioned, but you might be able to just bypass the tensioner with an 'emergency' belt of some type, just shorter belt - maybe rig a way to tension it as you install? Maybe slot one of the holes for the a/c or the PS? But maybe it MUST route as shown to clear some obstruction?

if you have a pulley with a bad bearing, maybe the bearing can be replaced?

new codes 'may' be coincidental. Live data or 'freezeframe' data with the fuel trims may be helpful here ---- one crazy idea, as a test (and yes, one or more codes may be thrown) fill-up the car, but leave the gas cap loose - see if you have the problem develop 200 yards w'ever later. that should tell us if there is a pressure/vacuum issue in the tank's 'headspace' I guess