1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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when did the first CrossTreks come out? Folks say they are underpowered. -
I think you may also need to add a little oil with parts like a compressor being replaced - research that. if you suspect leaks elsewhere in the system, put dye in there too. Or let an a/c specialist shop use their sniffer.
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older models from the 90s have had crank sensors fail with temp. that is not an expensive part to replace, but , you may have a bad connection to it or a bad ground so, triple check that first. Even look in the connector to it for a pushed-back pin. I even read of a guy that cleaned debris off his sensor and cured misfires....?
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I wouldn't rule out a bad knock sensor. have you scanned for pending codes?
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not sure what you'll find, but folks seem happy , in general, with www.car-part.com . you might try LKQ or even ebay and Craigslist. maybe call around some local shops and find-out if there's a local shop that does rebuilding - maybe yours can be rebuilt?
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^^^^^^ +1 I was complaining about trapped air to a mechanic once and he said there's Toyota that requires filling through a hose first - it isn't rare or a Subaru-only issue. Purging air out seems tricky on certain engines. An old Honda I had , had a bleeder screw (like a brake caliper type) I had to loosen, then begin filling with coolant and close the screw when coolant shot out.
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if it never did this before the work you outlined, double check battery and any other electrical connections that may have been disturbed. how old is the battery? will it behave this way warm or cold? One thing with cold engines, a failed start can leave a lot of unburned fuel in the cylinder as the ECU is using engine temp. reading to 'choke' the a:f mixture with xtra fuel, then, it does it again on any subsequent start. THis can be severe under some instances - I read of a guy with a Ford pick up that would start the car on cold mornings, drive thru a gate and turn the engine off, go to close the gate, come back and the car was so flooded, he had to hold the gas pedal to the floor. In fuel injected cars, holding the accelerator pedal on the floor while cranking signals the ECU to withhold fuel - it's the 'clear flood' procedure. I guess you could try that is the symptoms seem worse when cold. If they seem worse when hot, I dunno, maybe a weak battery....?
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perhaps there is a wiring problem from the engine temp sensor? any sign of rodent damage or possibility of a pinched wire? Can you measure the correct value from the ECU? the 4 things I guess I might try; measure or inspect or find a way to bypass/parallel the eng. temp. sensor's wiring get the nose of the car up, try to burp-out more air....get the rpms up to 3-4k a coupla times after the t'stat opens. bypass the heater core with a piece of hard pipe try another ECU
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yeah, look for Nachi bearings on Amazon. decent prices look on the present bearing closely to double check the number. the only bearing I know about is for the H6's serpentine system and it's 6203 like this; https://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bearing-17x40x12-Sealed-Bearings/dp/B0045E0E8U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522674228&sr=8-2&keywords=6203+nachi but they have several sizes
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ELM327 BT adapter device with an app like Torque running on a smartphone would get you live data - post it and one of the gurus here may spot something helpful. those adapters aren't expensive.
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not sure where it would lead you but, wonder if a little spray of starter fluid, or even a little propane from an un-lit handheld torch would make the engine smooth-out at idle? or, get worse? problem with fuel regulator or damper??????
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^^^ good post it has to be tough working on old, rusted, or beat-up gear. But experienced pros should be able to take that into account on the estimate. I might pay for the new part. But they can chalk the labor up to a learning experience.
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Quentin, while you are working on this issue - always check coolant level in the radiator itself, don't trust the 'level' in the overflow bottle to refelct actual cooling system volume. also, has coolant ever been pushed out of the overflow?
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maybe cycle the key fob lock/unlock a coupla times?
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it's steel into steel so, just put 130 ftlbs on it. I suppose a 'dot' of threadlocker would be OK ?
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I just have 2-3 oddball things to contribute I think that car has 2 temp sensors, one for the gauge only, the other is for the ECU - did the correct one get changed? (it's possible it has newer style with both sensors in one unit) I wonder if the heater core is clogged? The circuit that flows through is needed so the t'stat works correctly. As a test, you can bypass the heater core and loop the 2 hoses together is the 'jiggle pin' in the t'stat at the top (12 o'clock position)?
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tell us more about this - what was the donor vehicle you got the trans from?
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some folks just remove and toss that sleeve away - some popular lubes are incompatible with that rubber and cause it to swell.
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look for an NTN stamped on it; https://goo.gl/images/65emsN http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/216714-clicking-while-turning-identifying-oem-axles.html
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check ATF using the stick on the left side of the engine bay (as sitting in the car) like this; has the engine or transmission recently been out of the car? maybe the trans pump is cracked?
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another consideration - if a typical car battery has been completely discharged, it reduces it's lifespan - and every time that happens, damage is cumulative.
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I doubt it. (unless we are no longer dealing with an automatic trans equipped car) look again, one stick on each side pull both sticks out - the shortest is the front differential, the longest is for ATF. (engine oil would be some length in-between)
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did you check trans fluid level while idling? it's the only fluid you must check with the engine running.
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even if the HGs are intact, they may have been stressed and lube may also have been stressed - risk of rod bearing going out early. you like to believe in most crashes, the engine is shut off quickly, but sometimes the car is on it's side or something....oil won't pump correctly if that happens. it's all in the details - you need to get it cheap enough that dropping in a used engine is figured into the cost. others here have MUCH more experience than I do so, just relaying info I've read.