1 Lucky Texan

^^^ gah !

it does seem lke there's a consensus about maybe finding a different shop - start a new thread here asking for a recommendation. maybe someone near your city knows a soob-friendly mechanic. try that over at suabruoutback.org too.

^^^ def check for leaks. Oil filter adapters, oil pressure sensor, cam/crank seals, etc. if the plugs aren't carbon-ing up and the car runs well - $3000 will buy a lot of oil. but, I can understand wanting to ameliorate the problem. Some folks have used marvel mystery oil or other treatments to free-up the oil control rings. Or, experiment with a high mileage oil or heavier viscosity oil? but, option 2 could get you an engine with half the miles of the present one. LKQ and car-part.com might have some good prices. maybe even try a different shop for the swap?

could this be a bad ECU ? or some pressure sensor in the fuel system?

try a WTB in the classifieds here, and over at subaruoutback.org and ebay of course number on the back of your present fob should be all you need but....maybe others have more info about that

nah, I get it. I have had an unlocked car rifled-thru once, they didn't find anything but a made a mess and the battery ran down.(guess they didn't want the noise of closing the door?) And some prescription sunglasses stolen from a top-down convertible, but I usually don't have anything expensive in the car - I like having the option of parking and locking that car if we're making multiple shopping stops or traveling - but it really doesn't happen that often. the valet mode may be a good fit for you - you could always re-enable the security function if you did park the car with something attractive in it or in a skecthy area. Maybe leave a fob in the car and one at home?

It isn't just about whether a cop is passing by, most burglars aren't gonna want any level of attention - even a passing glance from bystanders. if some hooligans are hanging around the car, you can set-off the 'panic' alarm as you approach it. It's a deterrent, not a guarantee. Even if it went off, then timed out, when you return to the car, it will beep an xtra time and you'd know 'something' set-off the alarm. You could at least check that your lugnuts weren't loosened in an aborted attempt to steal rims or the cat converter hasn't been removed (that happened to a coworker on his SUV !) ((does it have a shock sensor? my car does))

or, contact traildog - he can even do some repairs as a mobile service; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/65-parts-accessories-performance/458146-subaru-specialty-products-tdck-cke-ssp.html

seems more likely you had a stuck caliper and the agressive braking may have freed it up.

why do you not want the alarm? have you looked into using valet mode? from; http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#2005%20impreza-forester

GD, how are Nissans these days? the ones I've had/maintained in the past seemed to have good iron, but electrical issues.

remans have ALL had a portion or all their case hardening ground away so cheap oversize bearings can be dropped in. not a good recipe for longevity.

checked the crank/cam timing? maybe slipped a tooth knock sensors are known to kill power without setting a code - always worth checking on older soobs. Many folks do fine with cheap ebay replacements. yours may be cracked - usually a bad sign

some aftermarkets may be OK, there is a specific Stant part number that many folks have used. but, typical t'stats are a known problem.

as mentioned above the thermostat is OEM-style?

fox - do I recall from the other thread that car runs OK when warm? when the car is bogging down, if you shift to neutral - does the engine rev OK?

knock sensor needs to be inspected - or just swap in a new one. cheap ones seem to work OK for most people in this instance. If original 95, I'm sure it's all cracked and a bad one can kill power.

1. you should be able to use th key to get in, and cycle the key from off to on 3 times to stop the alarm 2. there is some kind of panic mode that can be triggered if fob buttons are pressed several times in row within a certain time

seems like a lot, I bet there would be some rubbing in the front but, I have noexperience with that. and you'd probably want aftermarket mud/rock guards....

fox - why does the mechanic suspect the cats? what symptoms do you have? car running poorly, CEL or ?

could be 2 different issues. Is there any correlation with temperature or moisture? any oil on the plug wire boots? At that age, you could have old plug wires that arc and cause misfiring, maybe correlated with dew or cool temps. Does the shaking, misfiring settle down as the engine warms up? Leaking valve cover gaskets can cause misfiring too as oil gets on the plugs. How old are the spark plugs? Bad, corroded ground wires can cause issues. Or rodents can chew wires - in addition of course to the possibility of a bad temp sensor.

what about putting the bolts back in loosely, then 'juking' (technical term) the car back and forth? accelerate a few feet, slam on the brakes, etc. ? would that break the rust-weld loose? I know it won't work with those studs now, but could that work?

the logistics seem like they could be a nightmare - but i have read of people packing their car super- tight, shipping it on a train, and meeting it near the destination. They took the bus or flew....not sure.

you might also consider shipping some stuff - if you have no friends/relatives at the new location, ship it 'will-call' or 'hold for pick-up' w'ever , to the nearest UPS facility near the new digs. if you have clotes/bedding/pillows/cushions - check into those vacuum packing bags to reduce volume.

what size is that bolt head?