1 Lucky Texan

did you visit the Forester forum I linked above? Is brake noise now a common complaint on Forrys? were you able to demo the sound for the service writer? Sometimes, folks with complaints about failures "on cold mornings" or "after it sits for a while", have had to leave a car at a shop, then meet the tech in the morning to demo the problem. You could try that. If the dealerships seems reluctant to pursue this, call SOA. Dealers often won't pursue oddball stuff without assurance from Corporate that they will be compensated. you said you love the car, unless a bunch of other Forester owners can lead us to believe there's a design flaw or poor materials/workmanship involved, I think you should take another shot at warranty service.

you might try discount tire and tirerack online - see what reviewers are saying?

it all starts with Hans Ledwinka via Tatra from Nesselsdorfer. 'probably' the NW type C from 1902 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NW_C ) from wikipedia; ********In any case, of Ledwinka, Porsche admitted "Well, sometimes I looked over his shoulder and sometimes he looked over mine" while designing the Volkswagen Type 1.[1][2][3] There is no doubt that the Type 1 bore a striking resemblance to the earlier Tatra.[1] Tatra launched a lawsuit, but this was stopped when Germany invaded Czechoslovakia. At the same time, Tatra was forced to stop producing the T97. The matter was re-opened after World War II and in 1965 Volkswagen paid Ringhoffer-Tatra 1,000,000 Deutsche Marks in an out of court settlement******** and it seems reasonable that he would have pondered taking the 2 cyl horizontal Benx engines and add 2 more cylinders. Ledwinka was a very innovative designer; http://gulfnews.com/the-legendary-hans-ledwinka-1.1199592 http://www.curbsideclassic.com/automotive-histories/automotive-history-hans-ledwinkas-revolutionary-tatras/

pressure test could help here - even clean under the hood and use UV dye in the coolant, pressure it up, then search with the UV light and yellow glasses. Parts store can loan that stuff out. not impossible, but very unlikely the coolant is going into a cylinder. these cars sometimes need to get their noses up to burp out air. how old is the radiator cap? try putting a coupla small zipties to act as clamps on the overflow hose at its radiator neck nipple connection. does the overflow bottle's level change? which direction?

front-right (bank 1) O2 sensor or its wiring bad. clear codes and see if the same one comes back quickly

sorta wondering about the cap/o-ring on the fuel pump...but, Forester may not have that style of FP...?

soobs also seem to need fuel line clamps tightened-up every 5-10 years.

engine temp sensor? knock sensor intermittent? do you still get a CEL? what's the code?

oooh - clogged cat 'might' show on a vacuum gauge test.

whoa - how about trying a set of Centric Posi-quiet Ceramic pads instead of selling the car? or StopTech Street Performance if you actually drive in a ;'spirited' manner those don't squeal on my soobs. or, a 'bedding in' procedure of the current brakes? (at least, in a safe area, try left-foot dragging the brakes while maintaining 40mph or so for 2-3 blocks of travel, followed by a half mile or more of cool-down - DO NOT stop the car immediately afterwards without the cool-down run so, choose your road carefully!) you could also ask/search around at http://www.subaruforester.org/

did the engine come out of the car for the work? do you still have the OEM filter? put it back on to be sure about that. (even WIX 'could' have a bum filter come off the assembly line) no dents in the trans pan? maybe whoever was in there before used too much sealant and a chunk has broken off - blocking a passage??? try a battery disconnect 'reset'. try a bottle of TRans-X ? that's all I can think of right now, sounds like you know what you're doing so, this is likely something kinda odd.

trans fluid level checked while idling? it's the only one you check with the engine running, many folks forget and under-fill. best to check after moving the shift lever thru each gear if you are re-filling. filter OEM? many aftermarket filters seem to be built like oil filters - the OEM on is really more like a screen - could be an issue??? maybe cam/crank timing is off a tooth? pull the covers and bring the crank to the belt install mark, do a tooth count (search on line for that engine)

cool video fairtax it occurs to me, it might be a fun project to adapt an auto a/c compressor and make a steam engine out of it!

as long as there's a valve/'pill' correctly oriented in the brake booster system and connections are tight , etc. should be fine.

not that it couldn't be done, but I have never read of anyone rebuilding the compressor. HAVING it rebuilt might be an option for some folks in some locales, but they are so reliable, a used one from car-part.com is a superb value for most folks if it comes to a 'bad' compressor. I suspect some folks have been ---uh, ---unethically ? - sold new compressors when they just needed o-rings or maybe a hose.

Subarus are often out driving in conditions that keep other cars in the garage and they have just odd enough features in 3-4 areas that can cause improper/overlooked maintenance, leading to more severe problems.

seems like oil and maybe coolant analysis from a lab might be helpful. I have read of really odd problems when breather hoses get misrouted, even affected oil pressure! make sure the breather hose is correctly routed too (this is just the left side, there's one from the RS as well - #4 is the PCV valve));

what car? miles? any attempts made yet to repair it? you may be on the 'cusp' of low refrigerant - the sysem will protect itself and not engage the comp. if it's low on refrig Most common cause of low refrig is the 2 o-rings on the hoses at the comp. some folks have had to change comp clutch clearance, others have had to change a/c relay.

exceedingly rare to read this complaint, kinda wondering if Subaru has changed suppliers or design in some way on newer vehicles. hope the dealership figures it out.

some good pics halfway down this page;http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/88-head-gasket-issues/86162-2001-subaru-outback-problem-water-pouring-out-tail-pipe.html

WAIT - H6 nvrmd about tensioner a cracked flexplate can be very noisy....??? youtube ; www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OFTVscB3_U

you may have 2 problems but, excellent chance on a car this old that the solenoid needs rebuilding. plunger and contact kits are not expensive. did you get a CEL after the car stalled?

yeah, could be some etching issue from HG failure or electrolytic corrosion caused that? I have no experience that deep into the engines so, others will have to comment on how common it is, how severe it is, etc. If a straightedge across the block exhibits unevenness, I guess it needs to be decked/machined? hope others chime in...

I think the second pic may be a normal part of the casting, do a google image search for pics.