1 Lucky Texan

I think there may be quite a few Aussie sandrails with soob engines. Otherwise, I dunno.

clever! I think some people have also replaced the clutch relay with good results.

one of the reasons typical rebuilts are a poor risk is, they grind the carrier until the pits are gone and drop in new oversized ball-bearings. But, they are also grinding away the case hardening. Couple that with the likely cheap bearings and cheap grease and cheap boots...well, the risk starts getting high. many folks will get used Subaru axles from a junkyard (car-part.com) and rebuild them with new grease and boots. I would prefer new axles, even if Chinese, to typical rebuilts. I caught my OEM axles just after the inner boots split so, I used a Beck-Arnley boot kit and cleaned and rebuilt them. But, that is risky if the boot has been split for months/years. Outer joints are even more risky if they have been exposed for a few days/weeks. Inner boots fail early from exhaust heat. But, if you have clicking/thumping - probably time to replace the axle. some folks report good experience from Raxles. I don't know if FWE/MWE in Colorado is still an option anymore. the 'best' option is new NTN axles from Subaru - but $$$ . If you don't mind the DIY approach, reboot some axles from a wreck - inner 'cups' should be green - probably stamped NTN somewhere. My personal recommendation if you don't want to do the above, get highly rated new axles; FEQ, EMPI or similar from autozone, or rockauto, etc.

disregard

very common for older soobs to have o-rings go bad in the a/c system - particularly the 2 at the compressor. You may be on the 'cusp' of having lost enough that the low pressure switch is cutting the compressor off. many people have done the work themselves, but a shop can recover the refrigerant, replace the o-rings, charge and test the system for you. (check here if you decide to try DIY; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/43428-diy-c-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-5-less-15-minutes-less.html ) VERY unlikely there is any problem with your compressor or other 'major' part. occasionally, a rock or something will put a pinhole in the condenser up front. Sometimes a hose goes bad.

Chris, can you describe the problem the car has or explain what you want to accomplish?

it seems we're always suggesting Engine Temp Sensor, could be I suppose, especially if the car smells or seems to be running rich. The sensor might be keeping the ECU incorrectly informed that the engine is still cold when it isn't and too much fuel is being injected. Live data could 'prove' that theory if you don't want to throw another part at it.

so many choices - I think those would be fine. Here in DFW, I've been running Kumho ECSTA 4X (I have also run the ASX) - they are great for me on my 06 WRX wagon.

If it's like the one in my 06 WRX, mine's still rocking like new. Pulls-in a college station on the other side of the city on most days even though I think they have a 40W light bulb for an antenna! I may have pass side speaker getting scratchy.... is your antenna in a side window ?

knock sensor??? it's a stretch but ?

never done it but, someone here probably has, or check youtube? crutchfield.com is a good place to shop, they also may have install instructions. or, post WTB in the classifieds here or check ebay for an original HU if that's what you want.

I've never done this but I think I saw someone who used a combination wrench - they bolted through the socket end. yeah - dunno if that would even work for our cars;

does the car have the original headunit? If not, maybe the antenna amplifier wasn't hooked-up. does a CD sound OK?

how's the hose from the IACV to the intake? maybe it s cracked? is voltage stable? any improvement immediately after an ECU reset?

I'm gonna go out a little on a limb and suggest you have filled the system better than you may think. If you seal the system up, have a good radiator cap and proper t'stat in it. And make sure the o'flow bottle and its little tube are sealed and filled properly, 1 or 2 cycles up to operating temp followed by a cool-down will complete the job - probably a pint or less fluid will be pulled back into the rad from the o'flow whe it cools. afterwards, fill the o'flow to the proper level and check inside the radiator 2-3 more times and call it good if you don't find an issue. I have put 2 small zipties on the little o'flow tube at the radiator's neck because the hose is stiff and I'm not convinced it seals well anymore.

miles on car? miles since timing belt service? check cam/crank timing, if it slips a few notches - you might avoid valve damage but, car may not run. misfires on one bank could also point to shifted cam timing. 07s probably also have the troublesome early style of DBW gas pedal, but that is sometimes gonna throw its own code.

you might consider a conversation with user west_minist at www.subaruoutback.org - he has helped folks tune their XTs. also, traildogck is an XT fan over there.

good point on the o-ring. Doesn't look like the fill cap is the issue though, too dry under there. I guess spillage is possible.... I once noticed I was missing the seal on my fill cap in my WRX, ordered a new one, THEN found the old seal had fallen out, most likely at the previous oil change! It was still in the engine bay.

do not overtorque that part - sometimes the casting cracks if abused.

what car? seems more like ACVS system part.

I had to smear some polyseamseal or w'ever on the top of one of my rear lenses to stop water intrusion.

pricey repair but, the OEM replacement part is not cheap though. thanx for the follow-up

was an OEM thermostat used? could there be a lot of debris/bugs built-up between the condenser and radiator?

good idea on the cleaning, sometimes they can have moisture or 'sludge' that gets frozen in cold temps. though very rare, the diaphragm in the booster can have a leak. You might hear that one. the check valve is a built-in pill - maybe grab a hose from a pick-and-pull wrecking yard? good question about an 'external' valve - I think Fords have an external valve.....???

timing can slip and the belt will look fine - often an idler will seize and then throw or break a belt. crank pulleys can separate, she would lose power steering....but the sound is unlikely to be described as clanking. if the engine stops running, you get one or 2 uses of the brake booster before brakes are un-powered. timing needs to be confirmed by a knowledgeable person. Compression test will find bent valves, maybe borescope look at the top of the pistons....??? oil analysis can find xtra metals - pointing to a failed rod or other bearing. How much oil was in it? How long since timing belt service?