1 Lucky Texan

!!!!! is it some kind of local pick-up arrangement or do you ship them out!

2 things if not successful - try HOLDING the pedal to the floor. That signals a 'clear flood' routine and the ECU will hold-back fuel in case the car is flooded. This can crop-up with folks who drive a cold car a short distance, turn it off to close a gate or garage door, then try to restart - uncommon but.....? on the other side, you could try some spraying some starting fluid in to see if it's fuel starved. might be worth scanning for pending codes.

probably not it's the box under the hood on the left side - US drivers. (some older soobs had a small fuse block on/near the right strut tower I think - not sure when they switched) it 'should' presently be empty and a spare fuse of any size can be used in the slot. 'probably' labeled FWD check both places, if you have an owner's manual, look in the spare/emergency tire use section.

both the manual and auto have some neutral safety type wiring. Try starting in Neutral 'popping' the brake pedal once or twice if auto, if 5 spd, try 'popping' the clutch pedal. older denso starters do often need new contacts in the solenoid - kits are available for that. if it's cranking but not starting, maybe aftermarket parts or maybe oil on the plug boots ???

you might try cleaning it if there is a lot of metallic debris on them, they can be intermittent - but, it is quite old now, replacement is good idea. same for knock sensor, they crack and can cause loss of power. here, it seems inexpensive knock sensors from ebay work well for many people.

skip to about 3:00

you must check inside the radiator itself (safely!) - don't trust the level in the overflow bottle to accurately reflect actual coolant volume. unrelated to factories or anything external to the car EXCEPT, IF you have failing radiator fans, stop-&-go driving or waiting for trains, idling for long periods, etc. will cause overheating. But it;'s the failing fan that is the real issue. DO NOT drive the car if it is regularly overheating - get it checked-out by an experienced Subaru mechanic.

2 if open rear diff 2.5 or less with viscous rear diff lol

should be a sticky for on-line FSM links at the top of every generation forum

what car do you have?

maybe whoever you sold the Toy to failed to transfer the title - it can easily happen in some States.

Up till about 2015, the STi spring rates weren't spectacular. 15+ STi's have fantastic suspension. Almost so good that you have to spend a LOT on coils to improve upon it significantly. We put $1800 Tein coils on a 2016 Hyperblue and although it lowered it, the handling and ride was frankly about the same. KING springs are VERY nice and are our go-to for performance springs. If you can find some take-off 15-17 STi suspension would say get those. They will drop your car about an inch. Yes they fit the GR chassis. GD awesome post !

nasioc would be a good place to search for that info.

nvrmd

maybe a pin pushed-back in that injector's connector?????

Group N rubber suspension parts would sorta be in between stock and urethane. you might look around at NASIOC for some wrx take-offs. Folks upgrade and sometimes have low-use parts for sale. I don't know any specifics but, best upgrade I think was my SPT springs on my WRX, about 3/4" lower, less squat and dive, better cornering..., so, maybe Subaru offered some for 2010?

might be able to get a part number digging around at www.opposedforces.com or by calling a dealer I guess?

if the lower hose is very hot, could be a partially clogged radiator I guess.

it would be an exceedingly rare failure.

on the older cars, ground connections may need to be refreshed to keep sensors working accurately - disconnect, scrub all surfaces with a wire brush, reconnect, maybe coat with dielectric grease. they are all over the place under the hood - near the pitch stop mount center of firewall, intake manifold, fender, strut towers, etc. but, it seems you know the engine is actually getting hot? when it's overheating, any bubbles coming out?

look in the power steering tank for bubbles while idling - maybe get a helper to whip the wheel back and forth a little.

^^^ good post triple check all ground connections ? look for pinched wires ?

first, keep an eye on fluid level IN THE RADIATOR - don't rely on the overflow level. is the overflow bottle filling up or overflowing? are the fans working? is the car more likely to overheat at a long light or waiting for a train? some folks have found a lot of debris/bugs trapped between the rad and the a/c condenser. is the thermostat OEM-style? it matters;

unless severe enough to foam fluid out of the tank, it won't leak fluid OUT, it sucks air IN. look in the tank while the car is making the noise. On some tanks it's tricky, you have to get your eye right done to the top of the tank. I had to do the o-ring replacement on my 06 WRX last year. noise and 'notchy-feeling' steering.

something they use for diagnostics/reprogramming ?