subieluvr

Will 195/65/15 fit my 1994 Legacy turbo...It has 195/60/15 now. So that would just be a bigger sidewall right?

Yup cleaned and lubed.

Okay lets see if I can make this simple for everyone to follow. The last week of April I changed my front pads and rotors(simple enough right?). The front left caliper boots were rotten so I put a new caliper on and bled it. Jump forward 2 weeks and I was pulling up to league night and I could smell burning brake pad. I kinda passed it off being I had just changed mine. That was a Tuesday, jump to Friday I was on my way to the store and going down a hill with the cruise on there was a thunk and the cruise and speedo quit working. I stopped bout 4 miles down the road and checked the front wheels and opened the hood. The right side wheel and brake rotor were extremely hot to the touch. Another 4 miles down the check engine light came on. Pulling into town the car died, but started right back up. I decided to go to Big O tire and have them check it out. A day later they tell me the calipers and brake lines needed changed. I took the car home and changed out the bearing, brake caliper, brake line and ball joint all on the right side, but for some reason it is still getting pretty warm on that side. I know from what I have read that the speedo gears have probably melted. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Josh

Do the EJ18 and the EJ22 have the same timing components and water pumps? The reason I am asking there is an ebay auction with timing kit and water pump saying it will work for both. Pretty reasonable price also. Thanks Josh

Well it was the idler for the timing I am guessing. I was out for a drive tonite and it froze up on me.

It seems more mechanical than electrical. Before I had this happen, twice when I started it made a noise like a pulley bearing was going out. I know, I forgot to add that info when I first posted. Although I will check that in the morning.

Hello all, I have a 94 Legacy turbo wagon with 197000 on the clock. My problem is yesterday I was driving on the interstate for about 15 miles and got off, when I stopped I heard a clunk, clunk and it quit. I started it right back up and it wasn't idling normally like a miss. I checked the plugs and all are ok. I havn't had this problem before so just needing some ideas. Could one of the timing belts have slipped a notch? I thought maybe a motor mounts but they are good. Please any ideas would help thanks Josh

Hey that's a good idea, I will give it a whirl. Thanks

Sorry to take a week to get back to everyone. Yes it was the front bulb that had the problem. I just switched the left and the right and wabam worked!!! Went out and bought new ones. Brent the TW is doing absolutely perfect! Nothing really to complain about. How do I keep the cd player from overheating and causing the cd's to skip, anybody? Oh yeah, I found the leak in the sunroof sweet, lol! Anyway thank you all for the great advice!!!! Josh

Hello all. I have a 1994 Legacy Turbo Wagon. The issue is my left turn signal is blinking at twice the rate of the right. The problem started on Saturday night on my way home from being out all day. It was raining, but not hard. My initial thought was that I had a bulb burnt out. When I got home I turned on the signal and got out of the car checked both the front and the rear and both bulbs were working just blinking fast and almost seemed dim compared to the right side which is working normally. Could this be a relay? Or something else? Any help would be appreciated. They are working but it is just annoying for me I guess. Thanks Josh

Dennis, apparently you were not listening when I told you that it quit working in 2004. So I yanked the cable to replace it, but never got around to it. Hey another mystery solved yay.

The Loyale's rear wheelwells are beyond repair because of rust. In the past year rust has attacked my "Beast from the Far East". The insides of the rear wheelwells are about gone and taking the rest of the car with it. It also needs a new clutch, winshield repair and other little things but it runs great. I put a re-gasketed engine with only 125000 miles in her in 2005. So the engine has plenty of miles left in it. The car has spent its whole life in Iowa. Three owners and about 280000 miles later(140000 of which I put on) she is pretty much ready for Sooby Heaven. The GL-10 on the other hand I picked up in North Carolina. It is rust free and has a bad engine. Yes I know that exhaust won't match up and it is MPFI. But what will I need to do to put the NA into the originally turboed car. Josh

Heres the deal. My 92 Loyale is slowly taking a crap, well its gettin faster now because of the cancer in the rear wheelwells. Everytime it rains my car floods and I can't go muddin nemore because I am afraid of breaking the rear shocks clean off. I bought Daswaff's 87 GL-10 back in March with the intentions of rebuilding the engine and using that as my daily driver. A lot has happened since then and I no longer have that in mind. But I need a better car before winter. So here is what I am thinking swap the NA engine from the Loyale into the Turboed GL-10. Would it be as simple as pluggin in the control mod from the Loyale along with the dash? Or is there a whole lot more involved like rewiring? I am off til Monday and would like to mayb make this a little 3 day project if possible. If there is no rewiring and such it is very possible to do. Please let me know your ideas. Thanks Josh

I removed the switch and cleaned the contacts. Plugged the switch back in and nothing. The front pass. side window is the only one that will work and that is by using its own switch. I tried the back two and they will not work. When the switch is unplugged the front pass. side will not work. My only guess on that is an incomplete circuit. Just for reference the switch that was removed and cleaned was the drivers side.

Okay heres the short story. Yesterday I got into my beast and turned the key to on to roll the windows down. Usually they would go right down, but nothing happened. I turned the car all the way on so it was running and the windows worked. Although I had to reach over to get the passenger side switch. For the past 5yrs that I have owned the car the relays for the other three windows have been weakening but still worked. So I am on the road driving and wanted to roll up passenger side and the switch worked again just fine. I got home and wanted to put both windows up and nothing again(car was running). I went inside the house and came back out an hour later and turned the car to on, they rolled up. My question is, is there a short? Is this a relay problem? or Is this all in the switch? Thanks in advance Josh