subarubrat

Cool, thanks, just trying to get a heads up on how much trouble it will be to get this thing home if it is a no rust candidate, trailer, flatbed, etc. -Another candidate engine on the table I forgot to mention is the Ford 5ltr Coyote, height wise it might be a tight squeeze even with a tube frame x-member but it is on the table. I am going to stash the EG33 away in case I come across an XT chassis, I am itching to redo my original SVX into XT swap, with today's transmissions and engine management it should be light years ahead of the original version.

I always wanted to do an SVX project and it looks like one may be coming my way. The master plan is two swap in either the V10 out of the BMW M5 (clearance permitting) or the Chevy LSA 6.2ltr and a Tremec TR-6060 trans. Both a similar in baseline HP and potential. I am going to look at the candidate car later in the week. Like many SVXs it has a failed 4EAT, not a big deal as I plan to gut it, and the history of why it fails (overheating too much weight) is well known. But I am curious, when they fail do they hard fail, slip allot, stop shifting, etc. just what do they do? The thing is going into the recycle bin, but I am curious what SVX owners have seen.

Ditto, pure snake oil for suckers. You can load a different tune onto the ECU but for a naturally aspirated car the gains are not really there without radical modifications.

Nice ride, share some pics?

I towed WAY above the published limit with my 04 STi that had extensive upgrades. A WRX with an auto is a great towing platform with AWD and the 4EAT is a super tough trans, about the only upgrade I would strongly suggest is going to STi brakes. And a mild tune from a Cobb access port and a down pipe would pep it up nicely.

Just now saw this, it is awesome to see some attention! Many of the engine overhaul parts and other bits for my 82 Brat came from RockAuto, they were a great resource!

It looks GREAT! I would not be surprised if we are under 100 rust free Brats left, very good to see another great example on the road! I was talking with IloveDirt a few weeks ago and we both thought it was fantastic that these trucks are generating the same wow factor with the general public as they have had for us all this time!

To put a nice bow on this, the end result is that your life gets much simpler when you replace the entire battery, controller, and electric motor system with a simple belt and use the built in bypass valve on the SC to modulate when boost is made. All you really need to do to supercharge an EA81 is make a manifold adapter, nose brace, carb adapter and a drive pulley. That will give you the simplest, most reliable, and least expensive supercharger system. There are quite a few different inlet manifold castings for the Eaton SCs that one of them would likely be a good candidate to re-purpose for this application. Used M62s in good or rebuilt condition are out there for $400-600, if you are handy at aluminium welding or have a buddy who is you can probably pull it off for about $800ish, dirt cheap for an SC system. I would advocate for adding in a fuel injection system but that is a discussion for another day.

An axial flow compressor CANNOT compress into a volume. I love electric ducted fans, they fly airplanes very well, but put one into a tube and cap the outlet and there will be no meaningful pressure on your hand, and RPMs will increase. The idea of an electric forced induction is a fools errand for the most part. You can use a rather large brushless motor with a large battery to spin a conventional supercharger, but the added complexity, lack of modulation and weight are pretty strong no votes. I considered super charging my EA81 but decided on a comparable HP NA build to keep it closer to stock looking. My choice would be an MP62 for a budget build or a TVS if you want to spend a bit more. Simply put EDFs will gain you no bump in performance, waste your money, and possibly damage your engine if it sheds blades into your intake. I have been in the aerospace field for 26 years and the physics haven't changed yet. The EA81 is one tough little motor, I think you will find great success in a conventional supercharger with draw through fueling. This is a real electric SC for example; http://www.eaton.com/EN/Eaton/ProductsServices/Vehicle/Superchargers/EAVS-supercharger/index.htm

I was up front with them, told them I have bought new and used, but not a new one recently. I even told them why, the once mighty STi has been stale for a decade and the BRZ is underpowered, and no truck, make something better and I'll buy. And of course sent pics of my current Subarus and other cars. They accepted me right away, and I did apply as soon as it was announced. I can't speak for their decision making, just giving a few data points. I did beg hard for a mid rear composite car with an STi engine, a Subaru version of the Alpha 4c, and suggested Subaru expanding with an up-market brand like other manufacturers have (Lexus/Infinity/Accura etc.) and I did get a response from fairly high up saying that it sparked a conversation that had not come up before, that was nice!

If your going with smaller tires, then like the other guy said you probably won't need flares. On my current 82 Brat I have about a 2 in lift and 14's with 27 in tires and no need for flares.

Your goals are going to conflict. If you want flares though the mid 80's Toyota aftermarket ones fit well. These pics are of what I did, should explain it all: http://subarubrat.com/flares.htm

It makes sense, since the STi seats bolt into the Baja, which mirrors the outback. I'm going to watch this topic since the carpet in my Baja needs replacement and isn't listed as available.

As much as I am a fan of stuffing a Subaru power plant into most things I think geometry is against you here. The frame on the Europa would prevent the engine from being placed as low as possible in the chassis, and even with the engine high enough to clear the frame rails (to include the headers), which would really have it up in the air, I would be concerned about your driveline angles. And even then the engine width of any Subaru engine that would be equal to or better than the original inline 4 is likely to be wider than the bay, but a few quick measurements should resolve that. If I was building one, I would take a serious look at the engine from the Lancer Evo, 290Hp before tuning and they can make allot more than that! And should fit as well as the original.

You can grab some pics of my Baja with that 5inch lift out of the thread in my signature, some descriptions in there as well.

JDM just means Japanese Domestic Market, there are hundreds of importers of JDM parts all over, if you don't like one importer pick another. With a modern fuel injected turbo engine a dual carb setup would be of no value, the hottest dual carb EA81 might turn just a little over 100Hp while the starting point for even an NA swap is about 150, and 300 on a turbo is super easy. While not "bolt in" swapping in modern Subaru engines into older Subarus has been done and documented many times. Do a quick google search for Tony Rigoli Brumby and see what all he has done! Many people on this forum have done EJ swaps as well. https://youtu.be/ng5xFzjf_JM I think your putting way to much emphasis on dual carb, they were rare and are a neat novelty but you can swap in a Weber 32/36 and flow better with a single carb and once tuned it is set and forget. EA81 is gear drive for the cam, EA82 is timing belt driven. The belts on the EA82 are about as reliable as anything else, the weak point is the oil pump gasket leaking and causing annoying lifter tick. When I built my EA81 in my current Brat I was going for a stock plus 10% for the whole truck, lightly modded, so keeping the original engine was a must. If I wanted reliable raw power with excellent reliability and value I would go right to a JDM turbo swap.

Trim belt pieces for 82 Brat, and front seats....

If it is the same turbo as the one used on the 04 Baja I have a good one (taken off for upgrade) $300 shipped, TD04 if I recall.

XT engine in: http://subarubrat.com/PICS/er27intruckhires.jpg Hood: http://subarubrat.com/PICS/hood3.jpg Radiator, fans not shown.... http://subarubrat.com/PICS/radin.JPG I ended up going to a double split radiator when I went to the MP62 supercharger, same idea though. That was a long time ago. Like I said it will all fit but it is allot of work for 165~300Hp when you can just drop in a JDM 2Ltr turbo and MT, and of course the ability to go to EJ brakes, diff, etc. is so much more effective for the work and money.

You CAN fit an XT6 motor in a Brat, I did it, but you cannot have a front mounted radiator, I had to go with an above the engine one like a hummer, not an easy swap but can be done. If you look at the link to my BRAT I detail a pretty solid EA81 power build. If you want a ton of cheap modern power, I would get one of the JDM 2Ltr turbos that are being imported by the ton, it fits and with minor mods you over 300Hp.

Best thing you could give them is a method for extraction. http://www.findmespot.com/en/?cid=102

Mine is hanging up in the garage rafters, the goal is to get it painted to match the 82 and then drop it on a shifter kart. Just need to find the time!

I used Subaru OEM for everything but the HG, I used PermaTourque for that. I used the Delta cam torque grind for mine, they use a hydro lifter cam because it has a bigger base circle and it plays very well with 30 thou off the heads. I also added EA82 SPFI pistons to the mix and it certainly works well but getting knock and ping tuned out took some work with the timing advance curve and I am running a mix of 93 octane and 100LL. Performance is great but if you want a much less complicated setup I would suggest going with either 30 off the heads or SPFI pistons. Rock auto had the EA82 SPFI pistons when I was building my motor about 2 years ago. Do a good valve lap job, clean up the ports, and use an EA82 intake manifold. Lastly, if you do have 20 or 30 off the heads you will need to slot the intake manifold bolt holes so that they line up, and don't forget to match the intake port to the manifold. Just use some machine blue or other light paint and wet the manifold and install then remove it and you will see the mismatch that you need to create a smooth transition on.

Installed a modified Jeep JK bumper, intercooler duct and a few more things. Can't post any pics, subscribed Gold but never got the bump in picture quotas, not that it would help much as tiny as it is. You can find pics here: http://www.scoobytruck.com/bb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2973&start=30

Grab the car, start stashing cash and then decide what you want to do. The XT has the potential to be a V8 Miata killer.