subarubrat

Ladies and gentlemen, it is that time of year again! Time for the East Coast show at Carlisle PA on May 20-22. Last year was our first year at the show and we started off big. 25 registrations were done on time to get us club status and a tent, and this year I would like to think we can double that. I have registered our club for this year's event and submitted the forms to reserve our tent and club area. Be sure to register early and include the club name "Ultimate Subaru" in your registration info. Registration is still only $15 and camping is the same, three tents will easily fit on one plot as they are designed for RVs. The official talley of registrations and general show status info will be posted on the show's homepage at: http://www.subarubrat.com/carslile.htm Right now there are pictures from last year's show but that will soon be updated. For those of you who missed out on last year's show you can see what a great setup we had. To Register: Step1. Go to http://www.carlisleevents.com/schedule/import/index.asp and complete the form. Remmeber to include the club name "Ultimate Subaru". Step 2: Email me at got22b@subarubrat.com and give me your registration number as well as your board and real names. FOOD AND DRINK!! Ok, I need some help on this one! Last year we had a disorganized but successful food situation. I think we can make this year's event killer in that department. To start things off I will be bringing a keg again, gas grill, and a commercial pop corn machine. I did the math and here is what I came up with: For $20 you can eat for the entire weekend, beat that on or off the fairgrounds! I am setting up a food fund, send your payment into that fund to me (info to be posted on http://www.subarubrat.com/carslile.htm ) and I will purchase the burgers/brats/buns/plates/condements/drinks/ribs/chips etc. and bring them to the show. This will cover us for Friday and Sat dinner/lunch and breakfast on Sat and Sun. Please get your funds in early and not the day of the show, that will make it much more difficult. A roster of those paid in will be posted as well. And here is where I need help. We really need coolers for all the food, and if anyone can swing it, a small fridge or freezer would rock. If you can pledge to bring one of these on Friday afternoon please email me. Give me a week or so to get the webpage set up right. Some important links.... Car show status page: http://www.subarubrat.com/carslile.htm Offical Carlisle page: http://www.carlisleevents.com/default.asp Carlisle forums: http://www.carlisleforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=4

Unfortunatly that is the opposite of standard and "safe" nitrous use. You typically have restrictions in the nitrous ECU to prevent just such engagement at partial throttle or low RPM.

Save your money and do it right, as they said, shocks give no lift, suspension lifts create camber problems that cost more than a lift kit to fix in terms of correcting camber and then the increased maintenance of the CVs, hardly the path to go if you are trying to avoid the minor expense of an actual lift.

It should have been a one day install but thanks to a few stubborn bolts and impossible to reach items it managed to take two. The wife was very understanding and let me concentrate on getting the job done. The end result is 393 at the wheels which is about 450 at the crank. The fuel pump was as usual no problem to install, although the box around the strainer was an extra pain to fit through compared to my previous Impreza. That and the exhaust (3 inch turbo back) went on quickly. Then the fun began....... If I believed in the devil I would say that side feed injectors are his tools. You really have two very bad choices when removing them: grab them by the plastic tops and pull like heck hoping that they pop loose before the top shatters, or pry them out risking nicking the rail seat and snapping off a chunck of injector plastic. End feed injectors are so much easier. Then the joy of fitting the new ones in.... The O ring fit is VERY tight and no ammount of leaning on their delicate tops will push them in. You have to tap them into place with a small hammer and a ratchet extension. A slight coating of astro glide made all the difference in the 30 deg. weather where O rings are not very cooperative. And naturally the new injectors use a different connector than the stock ones, leaving you to install new ones on those 2 inch pigtails off the harness tucked way down in the engine. The turbo was another pain. First the "kit" did not include the hoses and connectors and such that were needed, maybe it is just me but a "kit" is more than the major components. The stock VF39 came out easily and then the fun began. The oil drain tube did not bolt directly up to the FP green as was claimed, nor was it at the exact same angle to fit back into it's recepticle hose because the fitting was at a different angle than the stock turbo. More on this in a moment... For a moment I questioned if I was sent the wrong version of the turbo because it just did not fit into place willingly. The oil line was running off the block exactly where the wastegate actuator is mouinted. After some very careful bending the oil line was snaked into the tiny gap between the actuator and the engine. The inlet hose which was the only one that worried me initially slid right over the inlet and was very soft to adapt to the larger size. Where things really went south was with the oil drain hose. The way it works is the turbo has a 3 inch or so metal fitting that bolts to it, then the oil pan has a tube that turns up to meet it. Coupeling the two together is a 4 inch or so rubber hose with one of those wire hose clamp/spring deals on each end. With the turbo in place the hose and both clamps are totally inaccesable. When the stock turbo came out the rubber hose remained attatched to the oilpan. If the drain tube on the turbo were in the exact same alignement it might be possible for it so slip back in when you install the turbo. Of course this was off a bit so a bit more astro glide and allot of pushing, poking with screwdrivers, a wooden spoon and almost two hours later I had the turbo in place with the oil drain tube inserted far enough into the hose to make a good seal. The vacume fittings on the new turbo were twice as big as stock and nobody sells a size adapting T. Then there were a few IC hoses, and other misc new parts to insall. The power is incredible compared to stock and the tourqe is right around 500 peak. The car is no only much faster but it is actually better in terms of driveability and transition to boost from cruise. It pulls from 65 to 100 as easily as you would go from 30 to 50. After being stuck with the Porsche all week 230 more HP and the AWD 6 spd seems like even more than it is.

It is CAN be more possible to roll over with a higher center of gravity. The antidote to that is to increase your track width with a wheel that has more of the width to the outside of the hub. As well as a wider tire in general. At 8 inches of lift I had 30x12 on 15x10 wheels with 2.5 inches back spacing. The truck was a full foot wider than it was tall. With the upgraded suspension it was far more stabil than a stock BRAT. It was a lifted Subaru that handled like a Gen II Legacy GT. When I went up to 12 inches lift and 33x16s it was no longer as stabil and is now very much truck like compared to a sports sedan.

I needed an ER27 pulley right away before some inbound snow hits and Archamitis snagged one at the yard and shipped it right out. Public thanks to him and the XT6 adapter and cone filter are on the way! Another public shout out to Erik Zap, sent me an old school BRAT stomper painted to match the real one. Thanks Zap! Great guys like this are the reason people come stay at this board.

I will happily buy you an adapter plus cone filter and send it to you. That is no problem. I need this pulley bad, we are about to get into the snow season. Let me know!

Mine seperated at the rubber. This is the crank serpantine pulley. If anyone has one they can pull and send me I would by thankful. I can paypal you the $$ and pay for Express mail or what have you. Email me at got22b@subarubrat.com and I will reply directly. Much thanks!

No issues at 240Hp and 33x16 swampers with the front diff, I have fraged a rear half shaft and reverse but the front has been just fine. I gave allot of thought to running a deisel, the medium size cummins they use in the Dodge, but in the end it was more important to me to be able to say it was all Subaru. Both for the sake of keeping it Subaru and not giving those looking for a way to dismiss it's performance as a Subaru and attribute it to non-Subaru components.

It was also called the 1.8 in another country, I can't recall which.

It matters allot in terms of intent and cause of failure. The majority of dealerships do not have the owner's best interest at heart. If they can deny a low profit warranty claim on a failed airconditioner because of an aftermarket suspension and turn it into a high profit high markup out of pocket repair then they usually will. They are out to get you so removing the excuses so that they will not be able to is more than justified. Beyond that, if you blow your engine because you ran an a manual boost controler with no fuel management and boost spikes/creap and want the company to pay, then your in the wrong. If you bust the shaft or tranny running 30x12 swampers on a Baja it is on you, but if your headgasket or ECU fails then do what you must.

I replied to your pm, then saw the thread, one further question... What flywheel did you use? There are different specs, and although the pressure plate will mate, it will be wrong and not apply any pressure of signifigance. Make sure the PP matches the flywheel. If you do not know the year and engine, this could be a pain.

Clutchmasters stage III on my 99 RS lasted for over 100k miles at 300Hp +

That grill looks great, why not modify the one you have to that style?

You CAN, but in my experience, it is faster and less frustrating to just snatch it out and deal with it.

Melis, Now is the time to just drive that other car and do this XT right, even if it takes a little while to put it together. I would suggest buying a WRX front clip for the engine and tranny. Pull the ECU as well and do a whole swap. It would give you near new car reliability for about 2gs (compare that to a new car.....) and with a few upgrades on down the road and you'll be sporting 280Hp for not much $$.

I would like to see a super Subaru product, for 32k they have built the STi and it whoops most things under 60k and many over that. Imagine if they hit a target retail price of about 60k. I could see a flat 8Cyl, turbo, mid engine with composite body. I would be camped out at the dealership the night before it was delivered.

I just saw it on the website, it looks great to me. I hope it comes out as projected. I was ready to buy a BAJA at day one but they took away all the features in the STX prototype.

STI engine....

What a great looking BRAT, congratulations on the steal, you could pay 4k or so out here for one in that shape.

NAPA had mine, no problem. I extended the hardline down about 10 inches then used a slightly longer softline. There is a bracket holding the hardline at it's terminus.

Where I live, that would be a $3000 plus BRAT. Check your clutch cable condition, make sure it oppertates freely before replacing any clutch components. You could have a dry slider for the throw out bearing etc. Fortunatly the engine is VERY easy to pull forward to check these componenets. I would suggest buying a shop manual. Further, ditto on the 5spd, brakes and I would throw in some minor engine mods such as a better exhaust, a weber carb, and a 2WD distributor for starters. For something slightly up the rung, I would suggest a 4 inch lift and a set of 27~28 inch Baja belteds/Swampers or the like on Toyota 15 inch wheels. There is an easy mod to fit the toyota wheels to our truck. Congrats on your purchase.

Fantastic call my good man.

Screwed Up Beyond All Repair Usually Beyond Reasonable Aftermarket Tuning Battle Ready Assault Truck

Melis is a true lady and Moosens is a prince among men, he has done good by me before too. If I could only get him to vote a straight republican ticket! And of course Dave is a kick too, I will never forget his #1 quote at Carlsisle "Ya'll get in and buckle up so I can drive like an rump roast."