subarubrat

You can do a killer swap using the 2Ltr turbo engines that every JDM importer in the US has pallets of. Coil overs and STi running gear can be swapped, it is light and with upgraded suspension, brakes, tires, and driveline you can have a real special car. I had one years ago that I swapped in an EG33 and turbos/ICs from a Legacy turbo, you could make the same power today with a USDM STi swap for allot less trouble. It is a light adaptable platform that responds well to mods ,I wish I had the time to do another, I hope you jump on it!

Very classy, it feels good to own one again right!

I both like and hate Doug Demuro. I would shake his hand and kick him in the nutz. He sucks, he is great. That is how I react to his videos. Check out his BRAT review, what he says is true but he misses why it is so awesome.

There is a for sale section here in the froum, the more pics the better and don't be afraid to ask about pricing or any other questions, people here are quite honest and helpful. Are the cars running, rusty, going to part them out? If you have a good set of Brat seats (passenger/driver) I would certainly be interested.

Welcome to the forum, lots of great people here! Sie sind richtig subaru Motoren wie Musik sind .

I'm at work and can't snag a pic but here is one that is nearly identical to what I built. http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/suspension/qd4.jpg It is very easy, you just need two heim joints or similar and thread them together, attach one end with a bolt and nut, the other end with a pin. Also do a google image search for quick disconnect sway bar and you will see dozens of easily built versions.

You have 5x100 lug spacing, same as an 04 STi and Baja and probably quite a few other models. You just need to find out what year the WRX is and look up the lug spacing and make sure it is 5x100. Now, something to think about is that your XT has pretty good brakes already, very similar to WRX brakes. The real upgrade is to STi brakes, just beware you will need to be using 17 inch or larger wheels to clear the STi brakes.

White lithium would be my choice.

Just make a quick disconnect swaybar link, that is what I did, works great and gives you the best of both.

I did the gold but haven't seen anything back saying it was done, is there any place to check?

You can replace the hill holder with a simple splitter like the one next to it, that will eliminate any problems from the hill holder.

The old school subaru group on FB had some discussions going on about USMB being down.

Superb! I understand from a Facebook page that USMB was running low on cash so I jumped on a gold subscription in case that is true, and I probably should have all along. But, to help the discussion of why folks might not let me say why I didn't before; almost all boards out there (and I run one myself) have unlimited image attach quotas, at least with any subscription. The quotas here are gobbled up by today's image sizes and I hate external sites and linking, I just want to post and go. Please consider that as a subscription benefit, I think it would motivate subscribers whereas the current system doesn't provide an obvious benefit in quotas. Not bitching, just suggesting.

I commented on this in another thread, but I think it bears fruit here. In exotic cars there is a routine called annual service, that means regardless of mileage, year or other factors you do a total fluid change, oil, trans, diff, brakes, you name it. I can hear the objections already, why dump out engine oil with only 1000 miles on it. The point being that your fluids are always at their optimum, additives too, and contaminants get flushed away. That is why when you work on a 30 year old Lambo the systems look factory fresh. The same applies to our wonderful Subarus, cheap insurance and extended lifespan. And let me add, if you replace a non critical fastener replace it with stainless, rust sucks!

I would be ear to ear grin driving a Brat as a commuter car. What year is it?

EPIC video. If you think Model T or As are rare or expensive do a search in your area. Under 10K and you can have one same day. I have lusted after a model A but I keep asking myself what would I do with it? Take the wife for ice cream once a month? But I want one, you know.

True that the more performance you add the more crucial the proper maintenance is, and the basic cost of that maintenance is higher. You can't dump walmart label dino oil into your 911 Turbo and expect good results. Appropriate maintenance is not what I would call a draw back though, it is a simple fact of life like needing premium gas Vs regular, it comes with the territory. Good maintenance can also be seen as cheap insurance, on my vehicles I do a total fluid swap every year, engine oil, trans, diff, coolant, even brake fluid. The result is that the inside of my systems look factory fresh with no sludge, corrosion, sediment, water contamination, or any nasty stuff. I have two cars that I might rack up 1k miles on in the whole year and they get the same full service. It is accurate to say, as you did that over 300k miles the Turbo will have a cost of ownership that is higher due to premium fuel, fluids, and more rigid service schedule, but that's not a bad thing, just a fact of life. I suppose what I am trying to say is I don't think it is a fair narrative to say "Don't buy a turbo because you will have to maintain it properly according the the manufacturer's specifications."

I would suggest driving both the NA and the turbo to see if you can live with the NA, turbo Bajas are reliable, they are racking up the same miles as the NA.

No valve adjustments needed. Can't speak to MPG since mine is heavily modded. /Chris Walken "I gotta tell you, your gonna want that turbo" / The performance of the NA version is anemic, the turbo is much peppier and it can easily be upgraded to STi or better performance. I have lifted mine, doubled the Hp, put on larger tires, ran it like I stole it and the only thing I have broken was my original axles with 160k miles already on them. They are very tough. It is a 4 place car when you need a car, and a truck when you need a truck, and several things in-between thanks to the bed extender and the pass through/folding rear seat. You will find out that it is very similar to the previous generation Outback, it is pretty much an Outback wagon with an open rear section. Other than *possible* typical issues like a head gasket there is nothing unusual or different from an Outback. Aftermarket parts support is choosing from a mix of STi, Forrester, and other models. You can find about any upgrade part you need even if it isn't specified for the Baja. For example, it isn't supported by Cobb access port but you can ROMraider tune it or drop in an STi ECU. Interior is nicely done, good compartments for storage and comfortable, the stock seats are comfy, heated and very adjustable but STi seats bolt in if you like. The amenities that the turbo model offers are well worth the price difference and make the truck much nicer to drive. I see you have an 82 Brat, same here, the Baja makes a perfect match to the Brat. If you have any other questions please ask, as much as I have abused mine you would be hard pressed to break much on a stock one. If your looking to mod it for better on-road mods you can go the opposite direction I did and lower it, upgrade struts/springs, swap to 04 STi type wheels you name it.

We really are in a golden era of total restorations!

That is just too cool! An LS V8 swap would be the icing on the cake! As much of a Subaru nut as I am I can't say I have ever seen a Justy in person, not that many around. Are you the first lifted one, I know SJR made your kit and I might be wrong but you could be the first!

Tire rack and the Tacoma calculator are epic resources in tire planning when used together. You can compare tires and get instant values of size difference in all dimensions by percentage, spedo error, etc. You can also nudge the values to find sizes that are just right or within your limits, lets say you know an inch more than a given size is too much but a half inch would fit, you can try that out and see what size it is in seconds. Also if your considering the cost of tires you can find sizes that are very similar but huge in cost difference due to how widespread they are, for example on my Z the rears are 305/35/20 and the only all season performance radial in that size is $450 each, but by going slightly wider 5mm or so, I found a better rated tire BF goodrich G-force comp2 for about $220 each, very handy tool indeed. https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc

Are you looking at ATs or AT K02s? I have used the older ATs and these new K02s are light years ahead of the older technology. If you do run into clearance issues you can always go coilover, they are much more compact in the perch area.

18x8 48mm offset, and BTW on clearance sale now for $109! They clear STi brakes with 20mm spacers and look like they would clear them without the spacer but I never tried. I also never tried them with the stock struts, but if it helps I would measure from the inner tire edge to the wheel well or some other reference point so you could check strut clearance. http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=MD14813BMF&wheelMake=moda&wheelModel=MD14&wheelFinish=Machined+w%2FBlack+Accent&showRear=no&autoMake=Subaru&autoModel=Baja+AWD&autoYear=2004&autoModClar=