subarubrat

The clutch alignment tool is a plastic version of the tranny's shaft. You put it in and it centers the clutch disk exactly so that when you tighten down the pressure plate bolts and remove the tool the tranny shaft will slip right in. If the disk is off center it can be very difficult to impossible to get the engine on. Did you remove the clutch at all for the swap? Are you swapping in another EA81 or a EA82?

Can you give me some details, engine type, tranny type and car?

I see what you mean Tom.

Was this due to a clutch change? Did you use a clutch alignement tool to make sure the clutch disk was centered? Outside of that, try putting a socket on the crank and giving it a small turn to line up the splines.

Pardon my typo, R180, used on the JDM STIs for a while now, and now on the US STI as well. Larger, stronger, and much tougher stub/CV setups.

Right, then I will have the LOW of the T case as LOW.

Thank ye!

If he had a cat plug up and then split that would sound possible.

Doing the T case mod, subaru tranny locked in low (giving me the same final drive as the stock 13s) for starters. The next step is swappng in the R280 diffs (have on one hand, another sourced. matching inboard axles hybrid to EA81 outers w/ ringed cups. EA81 hubs modded to 6 lug. This is stepping up 3 inches taller and 4 inches wider than what I have now, but the tire weight is unchanged.

You know it.

Measured size on wheel is 33.1X16.

Oh yeah, this has been covered more than a few times. LIke he said, they are too weak. I lean toward the 6 lug hub mod but I am not aware of anyone who has had a wheel loss using the drilled wheel. But do some searching and you will see how well it is covered.

No strut towers for the struts to mount to. You COULD cut out passages and fab upper mounts but that is a long way from bolt in.

I would also go to a free flowing muffler, that helps as well. But only so much.

No. But a carb change to a weber and a filter change to a K&N will work well together.

How about a swing away spare tire rack with integral 5 gallon Army surplus fuel container?

Cool, just keep the EA81T's MPFI. Use an SAFC to fine tune the fuel mixture, it modifies the signal from the MAF to trick the computer into thinking there is more or less air so that it adds more or less fuel. That way you can control the mixture accross the RPM band.

Brian, I wasn't very clear, sorry. I meant to say that you could use the EA81T as a NA setup. Using EA71 pistons and decking the head a bit shooting for about 11:1~11.5:1. Run a weber IDF 44 carb (or dual IDF40s) and get your cam cut for a longer duration with a bit more overlap. 130Hp easy, no reason not to hit 150 leaning toward a bit higher CR and cleaning up the ports.

Perhaps, MPFI turbo w/ EA71 pistons and cut heads. Use an SAFC to get the mixture refined. On 93 Octane you should be able to reach 120~130Hp easily.

What if it is based on a flat fender Willys that I saw in the junkyard?

Buy stainless sheet from a welding/metals shop and you will NEVER have to face rust in that area again.

Weld it onto a working CJ7 chassis with a low budget body and suspension lift, you know, re-arched springs and a 2x2 metal body support frame. Then mount some nice 44x19in. boggers on 16.5 inch alloys. Nice header mufflers too.

VERY pro

That is sort of what I did on my Impreza RS turbo. I used an aluminum box with 4 nipples and connected the various hoses to that and then ran one hose to the intake track after the filter. You could T all of them together and run one feeder.

Almost certainly a matter of fitment. If they snaked it up onto a nipple within the filtered area you would have another difficult hose to reach in an already congested area. By locating it on the side of the filter cover it makes things allot easier to get to. The small filter over the hose entry keeps particals out of the PCV hoses.