subarubrat

You can make a very good one yourself. Go to Ebay and get item 2463495714 for about $20. This is a filter adapter that will bolt directly to your MAF and gives you a K&N style (will also work with actual K&N filter) filter. After that you can get a sheet of aluminum at Home Depot and make a heat shield. I know this fits the XT6 MAF from personal experience, I cannot comment for certain on other MAFs. Note: The actual adapter has a clean airflow and does not look like the one in the pic.

I think there is a "pipe" involved here somewhere......

I DO like that digital.....

To go with the new 11 inch configuration I am uping the tire size to 33x15.5 swampers. They should be here by Wed.

Try just unplugging the ECS all together. When my 82 had the ECS it gave me all sorts of problems from bad mileage to stalling because the feedback solenoid would cut the fuel. I unplugged it and threw it into the woods and it ran just fine for a few weeks until I did the 6cyl swap.

Personaly I am a bigger fan of the weber IDF 40 or 44 rather than the D series. You will get allot more tuneability and a borader powerband. Cost is not much more than the D and it can be adapted with a simple 1/8 aluminum plate you can make with a dremel. I ran one on my first BRAT, the only problem was I needed a slightly higher idle.

If it is the power valve you can get the kit that includes it for about $32 from http://www.racetep.com/rebuildrejet.html Here is a diagram for component location and a description of the opperation of the valve. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/32-36_dgev_parts_breakdown.htm http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_carb_tuning_guide.html

Ahh, the vagueries of carburation. First I would swap the hitatchi on (if it is known good) and see how it runs. Then if it runs well, just do a full rebuild/clean on the weber.

Are you smelling excess fuel or getting black smoke at idle?

Is there anyone else near you with a weber that you could swap on to see if the problem goes away?

Your PM box is full so I could not reply to your question you PMed me with. My BRAT is still at the shop but If you still need to know when it comes out let me know and I can take a look.

The runs from the headers to the turbos on my XT6 (EG33 powered) were about a foot long, just enough to get the turbo behind the heads. It worked perfectly but again, that is a twin turbo setup, with a single, you want something like the stock header. Even Sam Rigoli uses the stock header on some of his 9 second cars.

I fully assure you and all present and concerned, I am fully ready to off road this paint job and run to the body shop like a bitch for a touch up.

This is close to the final effect, their work in House of Kolor and a dust free downdraft booth is far superior to my initial effort. The cowl is the piece between the hood and windshield. The aluminum mesh is the final planned version.

The hood, cowl and fenders came out of the booth primed today. The truck was masked and they are hanging the fenders/hood/etc this afternoon. The paint will be going on Monday.

Are you going to the Carslile PA show in May? Check out the thread stickied at the top of the forum for details. I will be there with the BRAT and at the very least the full body job will be done. Unless things just get crazy I should have the Tcase and 3 more inches lift in. But as for being done,,, the truck is never done.

I snapped these in the auto yard today while getting a Tcase and shafts. The BRAT is too far gone to save but it is certainly a one of a kind example. I can't help but think how nice it would have looked in cherry wood and stainless.

Back from the yard. This Nissan was a perfect donor and had all the shafts/mounts etc. on it. The truck suffered an engine failure so the driveline was working when it got scraped. Mileage was fairly low.

They would but at that point you are replacing rather than enhancing what is there, you may as well just put the BRAT body on a CJ7 chassis. Since I am going T case I can feed the thing with any engine and tranny that will fit. I gave some real thought to an Isuzu or cummins 4cyl turbo diesel. But in the end I decided I had to keep it Subaru powered.

I think practical is a relative thing at this point. I am full and prepared to break and repalce more things, part of the game.. I am sure my handeling will take a hit but right now it is FAR better than stock at 8 inches. I haven't just left the suspension stock, the spring rate is much higher so you don't get the bobble and sway. The adjustable shocks are a huge help in going from a compliant suspension to a stiff road going suspension. wider is better

I am worried about the 30'ish tires and smoking them up at a light now, it all becomes relative. Like driving an XT6 with cybrid and air suspension, tickin time bomb.

Perhaps, yes, the beer is flowing.... Unobtainium axles!

While visiting the BRAT at the body shop today I did my final measurements and decided on my new configuration. I am going up to 11 inches total lift and going with the Nissan T case. The tires are being moved up to 33in X 16in wide swampers. I should have some pics up of the completed body work in a week or so. I hate to loose the front wheel drive but I think the benefits will be worth it.

I am using a modern FET esc with a 6 cell on the stock 360 motor. Runs soooo smooth like that. I itch to get another BRAT body and put it on my 90Mph Schumacher.

Well, I would rather let someone else take lead, simply because I am pretty flexable (read: single) and I know others aren't.