subarubrat

Just keep it simple and go to backwoods low budget garages. When looking for an inspection I just pulled up and asked if there was anything on the truck that they would have a problem with. As soon as they said they had to get the book or started to point out lift or exhaust etc. I just got back in the truck and left. After about a half dozen stops I went to a place where the guy said everything looked good but the exhaust needed to be 6 in. longer. I ran to autozone and got some exhaust tips then back to the garage. He took a look at them and started making up the sticker. He never checked a thing outside of that quick glance. Never looked at the catless exhaust, double the legal lift, 5 point harnesses, etc. I just started asking guys with lifted trucks where they got their inspections done at then started checking those leads. You might have to do some leg work but you can find a place that will pass anything just about.

I would think that a weber should be easy to leave in place with the stock aircleaner over it. How often do these guys see EA81s to know what carb it had? My BRAT is in vilation of so many of VA's laws that I don't even think about taking it to a chain or brand name garage. I found a nice backwoods hillbilly place that just doesn't care and passes whatever comes through the door.

Years ago on my first BRAT I ran my wheels flipped for well over a year. The only mod I made was to countersink the other side of the hole so the lug fits right. I never had any bearing problems and steering was not really impacted much. That said it will increase the load on components but if the potential for increased maintenance is something you can live with, give it a go, throw on some flares and enjoy.

If anyone is interested some models of the Isuzu Trooper have a grey unit that matches at least the 82 BRAT grey dash. It has the dual function tilt/slope guage as well as a voltmeter and a oil pressure guage. I got one from the local JY for $15.

I think 6 inches with the T case would be do-able but close mainly due to the fitment of the front diff. 31's are fine without a T case if you have the power to turn them...

I am running the Grant adapter on my 82 BRAT and the wheel is one of their $100ish ones, no drilling. Just another option. I didn't see much need for a heated leather one myself.....

They are also rather easy to make, I had a friend make mine and after learning how it is really easier than I imagined.

Where are you buying your pumps? I can't fnd anyone that has these in stock (for the ER27) other than thepartsbin.com (who has allot of harder to find gaskets and such at usually good prices) And they want $250 for the oil pump. The ER27 pump seems identical to the EA82. Anyone know if htey are the same flow rate and all?

You might be on to something there. I have people ask me from time to time if I can make them a subframe, dual shock adapter, front shock adapter, steering linkage etc. and unfortunatly I usually can't because of the time to re-create a one of a kind solution. But usually it is because it isn't practical for me to charge what it was worth. For example: A front shock mount would involve trips to the metal shop, hardware store, and auto parts store. Then there is the setup time, reproduction of the original, and shipping. So in reality, it could take an entire day to make that item and then I would be selling what should be a $40 part for $400 or more (which I would never do in good concience) so it just isn't practical. However, I would gladly turn over any of the designs for solutions I have created to someone who would be interested in producing them. Maybe someone like PK davis might be interested in adding a front shock adapter or EJ to EA adapter to their lineup?

NICE work, in fact it is some of the best I have seen yet on this board. Fact is we need products like this, and I am sure you could make a few bucks selling adapter "kits."

I think we all know he was talking about the 95% (or higher) number of owners who take it to a stealership for such things.

What I want to see is a 4Ltr pushrod iron sleaved deisel H6 coupled to the EJ era 4EAT with a dual range feature.

I finally came to the realization I am not going to have the time or location to get my paint job completed in any reasonable time period so I made arrangements with a shop to get it done. I also got the Targa stripe set ordered in black to match the black flares, bumpers, and rocker panels . The paint color is electric blue. If all goes well, in a month it will look as good as it runs. Done so far:

The stock strut has been gutted and replaced with a cartridge (KYB) offering far better travel than the stock "cartridge". The Rancho mount I described here is one part of the total solution, I just thought you might be interested in the lower mount.

I am thinking convoy as well.

Can you post some pics?

My approach, and it has worked perfectly. No impact on turning radius and the shock is fully effective with no play. http://www.subarubrat.com/frntshk.htm

Tuning can be done through several methods. To increase fuel delivery in proportion to boost one could use a RRFPR (rising rate fuel pressure regulator) that increases fuel pressure as the boost rises delivering the needed fuel in proportion to the added air. Another method is to use an airflow converter. This device takes the incoming MAF signal and increases or decreases it in proportion to a table that you enter. The table is plotted to RPM and or boost. This way you can lie to the computer telling it that more or less air is present at a given point so that it adds more or less fuel. Should you need 10% less fuel at idle (due to larger injectors) and 5% more at 4k RPM with 14PSI boost you can set that up accordingly. I have this same combo on my 300+ HP Impreza and it gives me great flexability in tuning. I would go with FI over carb any day. You get configurability you just can't get with carbs and everything just works better overall. Of course the main problem you face is getting the timing signal that the ECU needs to know when to fire each injector in a MPFI system. Of course SPFI simplifies much of that.

You can use a LARGE flat screwdriver inserted into the timing sight port (on the belhousing) to lock the starter ring on the flywheel so that it can't turn. Two person job.

It all comes down to rust. I would pay 4gs for a BRAT with no rust and a clean body that had no drivetrain. I wouldn't pay $400 for one running like a top with terminal cancer.

That sounds real close to 40mpg. My BRAT stock got well into the 30s. Of course now it gets low teens but I am OK with that.

The flow capability of a OHV Vs OHC engine are a totally different animal than comparing OHC to a flathead. Cam profile and slight compression increase can make the 15 Hp difference between the 81 and 82. Between EA81 and EA82 I would choose the 81. However I did choose the ER27 over both of them for the raw dispalcement and power potential. So clearly I am not saying OHC is worthless. However I would prefer to see the ER27 in OHV pushrod format.

We have pushrods that hold up against spring tensions our engines would never see at over 10 grand RPM. But I think we all agree that timing chains are evil and at least we never went there.

The EJ series could have produced the same yeild on OHV pushrod. There is no reason why their couldn't be a 300Hp OHV pushrod in the STI. If you don't think pushrod engines can make big power dig around a bit and you will fins pleanty of examples.

To boost timing belt sales. I agree Subaru should have stuck with OHV pushrod to include the EJ series.