subarubrat

Good info! I will have to do this, I am rocking my tranny mounts pretty good.

It is always something little. The big things are easy. My tail lights have been working fine since day one. I drove home from work the other night in the BRAT and the tail lights were fine. The next evening I drive to the store and the tail lights are dark (brake lights are fine). So I check the fuse and it is blown. I install a new one and everything works fine for about 2 min. then it blows. Same result on the second fuse (done just to prove to myself it really happened. A simple short to ground would blow the fuse near instantly. Had I used higher amperage bulbs that pushed it over the fuse rating by a smaller margin I could see it taking a few min to blow. But the bulbs are the same ones I had last week and they all glow per usual until the fuse goes. Short of the evil component fairy soldering a low value resistor to create a overcurrent of just a few amps this makes no sense.

I am partial to the SSRs, that exact tire was the first one I used and they performed great. You will find that they are so stiff at 35 PSI that they perform like a low profile tire without any of the tread squirm that the boggers have.

The engine will mate up to a EA81/82 tranny that is in it's normal position on normal mounts. The engine mount itself is rather simple to fabricate. You can't use the ER27 mounts and the stock EA81 mounts fall short although they match up in the rear. The front "tab" must be extended by about in inch. I cut off the front tab from the ER27 motor mount and welded it over the EA81 mount to extend it. The hill holder (if present) will be in the way and while you can move it I chose to replace it with a simple T. The fitment of the engine is really not the problem. The problem is fitting a cooling solution. The front of the engine comes right up to where the radiator was. Fitting a smaller radiator to a larger engine is not the ideal solution. In my case, with the large lift, I was able to fit the radiator above the engine in a reclined mount and the fan and hood vent line up with it when closed. This solution leaves 1/4 of an inch clearance so I can tell you it won't work with a simple 4 inch lift.

So what's the current poop? Wasn't there another thread for this same topic? I know I replied I was going but I don't see my post in this thread. Count me in for attendance. Lunch (burgers/coke) is on me if we have a group of 25 to get the tent setup. I will bring the BRAT and might trailer the 99RS Turbo behind it.

My ER27 was bored 2mm and the final result was: 479cc combustion chamber volume and a displacement of 2915cc (after stroking) The deck height is .04ish as I recall and everything was nice and true, no plate available so no plate used.

15x12 here, standard Toyota offset.

When and if you do go the spring route, check into ground control coil overs. They wil adapt to the strut and allow you to go as stiff and low (geometry permitting) as you care to. Also, replacing the strut "cartridge" with something more up to the damping needs of the GCs. Airbags can't even compare to this. I had a similar setup on my XT.

Not commenting on your situation, but I bought two XT6 engines from Ian a few weeks ago and they were pretty much as described. All XT6 air suspensions are time bombs with little or no warning, I think you just had rotten luck. Going spring is the solution unless you want the air.

Fantastic! Are you running the ER27 6cyl or something else? What is your cooling solution if you run the ER27? I am runing the horizontal top mount setup myself. If you want any ER27 performance parts let me know I have a few sources.

Got the new engine build in the BRAT and before compleing it I confirmed that the previous failure was from a spun bearing. The damage to the bearing did not indicate overheating or overloading, it looks like the damage was done by coolant when the head gasket went. I also went with the new cam grind and she needs to idle at about 900 to be happy. Power delivery is now much more broad without loss of the low end, it pulls hard to about 6 grand and from 6 to 7 it tapers off a bit, I set the redline at 7,500 after running at 8 with no perceptable valve float. The springs are from a Vega Cosworth and are just fantastic. Here is the DUMB part. I filled the engine with 5 quarts oil and installed it. Then once in the truck I filled it with 5 quarts oil and coolant per usual. Things just seemed strange on start up so I started to wonder. Pulling the dipstick revealed oil close to the neck of the fill tube. So I drained 5 quarts and went on about business.

There is some BRAT resemblance here (found on the microcar site): http://www.microcar.org/carspecs/conyguppy.html

It would be more productive and not too far fetched to swap in a street bike engine and tranny. Mount it at an offset with the tranny output shaft driving the input of a LSD diff. Gear it for a bit higher than the intended gearing so that instead of a top speed in the 160 range you shoot for 120s. That will compensate for the extra weight of the car. Not too difficult to end up with 140Hp and a 6spd tranny.

The Subaru dealership in Kaiserslautern Auto F.A.G. (yes that is the real name) was always helpful to me in getting parts.

Terrible translation.

L1800 Ich wohne in Deutschland fur drei jahr. Ich wohne in Kaiserslautern und Darmsadt (bei Frankfurt). Woher kommen Sie? Ich hatte mein 87 XT6 mit doppel kompressor 3.3 Ltr fur zwei jahr, 93 bis 94, und an A6 gefährte jeden tag. Die ende von geschwindigkeitsgrenze beschränkungen war beschränkt auf kleine gebiete bis Frankfurt und Kaiserslautern. Aber, Ich habbe mein spass! Ich Fahrschule gehen fur zwei woche im Hochenheimring. Wohen sei bei ein Amercian militärisch platz? Viele habbe autograbplatzen mit USA spec auto stuck zu einem niedrigen Preis. Das ist fur USA soldaten aber, ob du hast eine USA freunde im Deutschland ehr verkaufen kanne fur du. Ich habbe mein SVX Antriebaggregate fur DM700 preis! geht mir gut!

Just get a battery isolator, a good one will manage the of the second battery charging completely.

Adam, I am running the EA82 flywheel with no problems. The clearance is fine and the bolt pattern/size is exactly the same. the disk was rebuilt by clutchmasters with a stageIII compound and holds with no slippage or chatter at all. Engagement is smooth and at a normal pedal pressure.

I want them made out of stainless steel. I have used stainless for all welded in rust repair I would love to have the pieces to replace the rust prone parts before they rust.

Count me in for one! Let me know about the payment procedure.

A good comprimise is to make your bars adjustable. Simply put, cut a 1/2 inch section out of the bar near as possible to the middle. Then weld 1/4 inch wall pipe about 3 inches long with an inside diameter just larger than the bar to one side of the bar. You will now have a socket that the other side fits into. Insert the other end of the bar into the socket and drill two 1/4 holes about a half inch apart. Pull it back out and grease it with a heavy grease. Insert the other end in and use bolts or pins (I use pins with holes for cotter pins) in the holes you drilled. The bar will function as normal onroad but in about 30 sec. you can pull the pins and disable it. Also, if you take the extra time to sort of "countersink" the holes on the swaybar just a hair it makes the pin insertion a thousand times easier.

Exactly what I did. Cut the seam on the stock one and gutted it. Then I hit the parts store and found a KYB that had allot more travel. The hard part was welding it in, lots of small welds and cooling breaks.

http://www.kingsprings.com/ I emailed them and asked for a spring set that was the same diameter as the stock spring but 2 inches longer and speced for about 400 pounds additional vehicle weight. I had to email three times to get someone to take the effort to compare specs for me. The first two just replied that they had only one variety.

Here are my lower mounts: Here are my upper mounts: The lower mount installed: Side view showing important clearance between shock and mount: Overall view: The top shock mount is the stud type and slips through the loop in the top strut mount. A poly bushing goes above and below the loop with the tension set so that the shack can pivot as needed without having verticle play. The lower mount is secured by a nut that barely pushes the washer against the bushing. The shaft is a stainless steel bolt so it won't corrode and it is lubricated. This is critical so that the lower mount pivots. The shocks swing as needed for truning and do not bind at any point in their travel or twist. There is no resistance added to steering.

I am all about Rancho myself.