subarubrat

Merry Christmas to all of you!

Were the strut shafts able to travel in and out with firm pressure or were they frozen, or loose? Are your top and bottom mounting bolts secure? You mentioned these are adjustable, did you crank them all the way up? If so , your camber may be way off and that can hurt handeling.

EJ20T, they are everywhere and cheap, lots of them at low miles too.

That 90 w/SCVT would make a heck of a go-Kart power plant. Watch this video!! http://foto.renn.tv/web/video/gixxerkart_video.wmv Absolutly worth every moment of waiting for the D/L

The 5 AMP limit is due to the thin nature of the traces on the PCB. As I said, runing a hardwire to the FET would fix that problem. The actual FET is rated at 50 AMPS and that is a fairly low grade FET. There are solder in replacements that spec out in the 120 AMP range. Pulling 10~20 amps through a heatsinked 50 AMP FET is pretty reasonable. If you ran into overheating issues or needed more capacity a 120 AMP FET would be more than enough.

Here it is, with hard wiring to the FET + heatsink in the airstream this will give you proportional fan speed control. Just mount the fan speed switch on the PWM controlling Pot. You get continuously adjustable fan speed from slowest to max. http://electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1400.htm

You may take from my site as you see fit. http://www.SubaruBrat.com most pics are under My BRAT mods.

It isn't, someone just has a case of the rump roast for some unknown reason.

I am 100% on all those points, I was running a xzylene booster on top of the 93. The engine was done as a system, the heads and cams both recieved allot of attention. I was able to do a postmortum today and it did in fact shred a bearing, the chambers are virgin with a slight ammount of soot (better rich than lean). So in the mean time I am swapping in a temp while I rebuild.

POR15 has saved me allot of trouble and is a great product, worth the money.

ER27 from the XT6. I think the damage is going to be bearing/crank, but the rods and pistons and heads are fine, and so long as that is the case I am out very little money.

What part of this has been anything else? But it is worth it.

Make sure you clean the area real good and do some deep but brief MIG welds. I did about 2 dozen spaced so that it remained cool. I porobably could have done it in half that....

In the case of EA81s, I find it is less trouble to just reach in and pick up the engine than futzing around with the engine hoist.

This BRAT has been an experement in pusing the limits of allot of hardware and technologys. Like any experement there is success and failure and I just had a failure. On the way home from work I was cruising along and the oil pressure dropped and the engine died. I thought perhaps the timing belt broke so just for S&G I fired it up and it sounded fine and the oil pressure was fine. I drove about 15 more miles then the oil pressure dropped again, this time with allot of lifter ticking and a sharp loss in power. So I shut it down right away. The lesson here is that the ER27 may not be happy in the 11:1 range, then again it may have been unrelated since it was almost certainly a main bearing failure. A teardown later will make that clear. In the mean time I am swapping the heads/cams, intake, and ignition over to a stock shortblock for a while. I need to examine the cause of the failure and the condition of the crank/pistons/rods. As long as the pistons and rods are OK that is what matters cause that is where the money is.

The seam at the top is where I cut/ground mine, and by top I mean where the rod exits. Make sure that you measuer the inside of the tube and match it to the diameter of cartridge you order.

Contact Beerheart on this board, he has a wagon he is about to junk with seats in it.

Should, I know BRAT seats did. The ones in the BRATs in the Culpeper yard are shot. There are a FEW otehr EA81s that might have better seats.

My EA81 starter turned the ER27 over fine at stock compression but it is not doing as hot as I would like at the current build. Parts houses list different part numbers, none have them on hand for comparison. Flares are Bushwhacker cut outs for 89 Toyota 4x4 truck.

Is anyone aware of the actual side by side differences between them? Or between the EA82 and XT6 starters?

I call that my "puddle of gasoline + blowtorch must light" law. When everything is right and it must work yet it doesn't.

That is it, and it looks like they have the rally version, not to mention 5 for the price of 1!

Didn't note the scale, as I said earlier the manufacturer was something like Hasagawa. Give them a call and check it out.

The Subaru world is held together by 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and 17mm.

I doubt that I will be by there anytime before the new year. I say local in that it is in N. Va. My work schedule is just too tight. I am sure they can sell and ship if you ring them.